Viscous couple snowy conditions (1 Viewer)

[crewstim]

I am hoping to find anyone that has removed the viscous coupler from their 80/lx and uses their rig in snow. I am debating between replacing and removing, I plan to use my LX for ski trips just looking for some advice. Im generally aware of how the VC works and not looking for any answer other than the practical application in snow/icy roads. Worst case ill pull it and give it a try, just figured it wouldnt hurt to ask.

 

[69LC]

I live in West Michigan where we can have our current muddy mild conditions to crazy cold and lots of lake effect snow and pack ice. With good tires and understanding the conditions, having the VC is very reassuring.

 

[tacosupreme]

My 1991 didn't come with a viscous coupler. I don't lock the center diff in really slick conditions, like freezing rain, but other than that when it's snowing I lock it and just drive. You do notice a bit of traction breaking loose in tight parking lot turns (icy conditions) but other than that no quirks, behaves just like any "normal" 4wd.

 

[greentruck]

Never had anything except old-school part-time before the 80, so am used to the drivetrain being locked front-to-rear. So the AWD, the VC, etc were new to me.

Do some research on adding a CDL switch (if yours didn't come with one from the factory as the later year models didn't) and the 7-pin mod to your truck. This allows you to selectively lock front-to-rear in High range and to Unlock in Low. So no need to remove the VC, just engage the CDL via the switch.

At first I thought I'd want High/CDL locked for running on the road when it's snow covered based on previous experience in other vehicles. Several hundred miles in Canada over winter break one year convinced me that it's often better to run with the CDL unlocked in High, depending on the snow/road conditions. I wouldn't dispose of the VC just yet, at least until you've tried this less labor intensive fix.

 

[shocktower]

I suggest, putting the CDL switch, it saved my ass in the wonderful weather we had recently

 

[crewstim]

Thank you all, Mines shot so I'll pull it. Fortunately, I bought and installed the cdl switch. If anyone knows of one for sale at a reasonable price I'll be in the market.

 

[Malleus]

Check cruiserparts.net; I think I saw one, used, there recently for under $50.

 

[LandCruisinMy93]

I suggest, putting the CDL switch, it saved my ass in the wonderful weather we had recently

Northern Oregon got dumpled on that's for sure.

 

[alia176]

Thank you all, Mines shot so I'll pull it. Fortunately, I bought and installed the cdl switch. If anyone knows of one for sale at a reasonable price I'll be in the market.

I have a VC that I pulled back in '07 I think it was when I did the part time and crawler gears. It's a heavy SOB and makes for a nice paper weight! PM me if you want it.

 

[bwakeling]

No doubt a 80 drives better in icy conditions with the VC and full time 4wd in tact. I did remove the VC when I converted to part time and have been driving around no problem all winter. Most of the time I leave it in rwd and just use the rear locker if I need more traction. If conditions are really bad I just lock the hubs before I head out and engage 4wd as necessary with the CDL switch. Biggest mistake was not switching the abs tone rings from my factory birfs to the RCV's.

 

[zipdoa]

Definitely keep the VC if you can. A center differential is better with the ability to redistribute torque, and it will improve low traction driving characteristics.

 

[80t0ylc]

Thank you all, Mines shot so I'll pull it. .......

Good choice. VC is a luxury item that can easily be lived without, IMHO and will be when mine goes since I have the CDL switch with the pin 7 mod. Sounds like you have a basic understanding, so I'll just mention the following for those that read through this thread - but are unaware of it.

Biggest killer of the VC is - not locking CDL when driving in conditions where you're getting a lot of wheel spin. The CDL switch was removed by Mr. T after '92 (wiring remained) and VCs were added to enhance performance. Also for these years, CDL only gets engaged automatically when low range is selected and disengaged when returning to high. But, with continuous wet or muddy off pavement, packed snow or ice (slick) driving, VC stands a good chance of over heating if CDL is not engaged. Continuous over heating the VC will lead to it seizing and since it is a sealed unit - it needs to be removed or replaced. Excellent reason to install CDL switch in the '93 - '97 80s - and with the pin 7 mod, driver has full control of CDL - like the '91 & '92 80s.

I try to engage the CDL, when on sand, loose dirt or on packed snow/ice - even if I don't need it and disengage when returning to a hard surface in hopes that it will increase the longevity of the VC and enjoy the luxury - while it's still working...lol.

 

[ZackR]

Thats good feedback on extending the VC life @80t0ylc . I need to add a CDL switch at some point but most of the time when I'm driving in deep snow or slippery conditions I'm going slow enough to use 4 low so its already engaged.

Its interesting with the VC when you try to get the cruiser sideways on snow or ice with the CDL unlocked... you can feel things straighten out a bit once some of the power gets sent up front and pulls you forward. Its one of those vehicles where staying on the throttle a bit actually pulls you out of the problem better than letting off when it gets sideways.

 

[jonheld]

Honestly, if the one in LX450 failed, I would just remove it. After driving a 91 FJ80 for 25 years in the Northeast, I'm pretty comfortable without it and I can't really say that the Lexus is any better or worse in any conditions. I also have very good tires and don't drive like a dick when road conditions are poor.

 

[Tennessee80]

Leave it in there until it craps out. Mr. T was on another level when the 80 got designed....

 

[CoffeeGeek]

I wish I still had mine as it is a great design feature. The best I can tell my LX was never driven much in adverse conditions due to being a FL car and no rust.
it appears the viscous coupling was removed as there is red RTV at transfer case split as well as back end wanting to get out of line on slippery roads.

I have a CDL button but have not yet done pin 7. I would be happy if when engaging CDL the ABS was to stay active. Prefer having the ABS safety feature if being able to steer when breaking on snow and ice.

 

[Mandrake]

I have a CDL button but have not yet done pin 7. I would be happy if when engaging CDL the ABS was to stay active. Prefer having the ABS safety feature if being able to steer when breaking on snow and ice.

The problem with that is your front and rear wheels are mechanically linked together by the center diff locker. The ABS in our trucks is a four channel system, meaning each wheel has its own speed sensor and the braking force at all four corners can be modulated individually by the ABS pump. If you lock the front and rear axles together so they're always turning the same speed in relation to each other as what happens when you lock the center diff, you remove the ABS's ability to module front to rear. The truck disabling the ABS when the center diff is locked is basically just telling you that ABS isn't going to work in that condition and to be careful. Making the ABS work while the center diff is locked is possible, but pointless. I'm not going to sit here and tell you how to drive, but my personal take on it is if you're in conditions bad enough to need the center diff locked and you're going fast enough to need ABS to save your ass, you probably should slow down.

 

[CoffeeGeek]

The problem with that is your front and rear wheels are mechanically linked together by the center diff locker. The ABS in our trucks is a four channel system, meaning each wheel has its own speed sensor and the braking force at all four corners can be modulated individually by the ABS pump. If you lock the front and rear axles together so they're always turning the same speed in relation to each other as what happens when you lock the center diff, you remove the ABS's ability to module front to rear. The truck disabling the ABS when the center diff is locked is basically just telling you that ABS isn't going to work in that condition and to be careful. Making the ABS work while the center diff is locked is possible, but pointless. I'm not going to sit here and tell you how to drive, but my personal take on it is if you're in conditions bad enough to need the center diff locked and you're going fast enough to need ABS to save your ass, you probably should slow down.

Yet you just did...

Merely continuing the discusion with observations I have had regarding the ABS and CDL. Exact point is the system works much better with both CDL and ABS together. Thank you for bringing my attention to the fact of the number of Channels in the ABS. My Tundra's ABS works fine with 4WD engaged, I have never noticed that it is not working correctly.