Videos of first start... (1 Viewer)

[78GroundUp]

Yes Spot, very careful about making sure it is fully seated. That was my frustration for the first few HOURS. Did not know you could reach in there and turn the damn thing with a screw driver. So it would not seat anywhere close to correct. I finally learned that.....and being very careful all around. Oil pressure has been good at all times.

I have the Toyota Emissions and Body/Chassis. Anything that will help, Send it over. Thanks.

As you heard me thinking out loud. Trying to figure out if the cylinder is in the upstroke or down. I believe I want it on top on its way "up". Correct?

No to all vacuum question. It is a convoluted disaster. Tomorrow I am going to step by step try to clean that up. Yes, I have a few questions...

1) I am using the Haynes at this point. It is the only one I see that matches my set up with ease to read.
2)Does anybody have good pics? The Haynes and Toyota will work, but.... both are a bit hard to imagine.... 2D pics in a 3D world. 3)I broke the tip off the VCV, the one right next to the VSV.... does anybody know where to allocate that. Or buy one? Have not checked Toyota But will tomorrow.
4) Most important - What size line is used in the vacuum system???

Following closely for all suggestions and pointers.

Its fun learning this stuff.... thank you for your patience and willingness to help.

 

[78GroundUp]

Did you plug the EGR Port on the carb like I mentioned here? If so that would be a serious vacuum leak...
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-seri...-yes-more-might-too-much-ask.html#post7388898

NO, I do not have a clue which one is the EGR port on the carb?? I am a laymen. I usually have trouble with simple terminology. Are you speaking of the Gas line looking tube, bent towards the radiator, short in length... yet rather large for its location?? If so, then yes.

 

[Fuzzy Logic]

Remember that in a 4-stroke engine like your 2F each piston is "up" in its stroke twice per each power cycle. Once to push out exhaust gases, and the second time to compress the air-fuel mixture. This second time is the time that is truly Top Dead Center, when the spark needs to fire

You need to study this---- . Four Stroke Engine Basics

 

[78GroundUp]

You need to study this---- . Four Stroke Engine Basics

Thank you Fuzzy... clarifies alot.... and makes sense. Now you have brought another question. How do I determine when it is up on the compression cycle?

And a WHOLE NEW can of Worms. Adjusting the valves , Never done it, no idea how to do it, not a clue?? Should I adjust the valves before I do all this vacuum clean up? seems as though I should....

Starting ressearch now.... any advice, would be appreciated. I am sure you "all" are holding your head saying, "what is this idiot doing?" My answer, It was not my plan to be this guy. Had a mechanic. Don't know why he has not shown back up. He says he is just that busy.... SO here I am. And I cannot afford $80 an hour for labor.

 

[platypusREX]

By popping off the cap and seeing that the rotor is pointing at the #1 wire direction in the cap.

 

[78GroundUp]

Valve adjustment question.

By popping off the cap and seeing that the rotor is pointing at the #1 wire direction in the cap.

Rotor is pointing at #1 but apparently I need to open the cover and adjust the valves individually.

After reading, and looking. I think they should be set to... When hot, intake .008 and exhaust at .0014. Did a complete rebuild so I would assume these gaps are off.

These measurements are at TDC individually for each cylinder. So the measurement/clearance is for between the rocker and the pushrod? Is this correct?

Thanks

 

[grant5127]

I particularly like the backfire blaze shooting out of the air cleaner

I need to find a way to capture that moment for my new avatar idea....

 

[subzali]

You can buy some of the vacuum switching valves from places like SOR.com, cruiserparts.net, or classic cruisers in Salida. Or in the classifieds section.

The vacuum hose is 6mm.

I think there is an isometric vacuum hose diagram in Haynes? You should also think about getting a Toyota emissions manual.

Do a search on this site for adjusting the valves - at TDC you will be able to do 1/2 of the valves, then you rotate the engine and do the other 1/2. Set them a little loose if you're adjusting cold - say 0.010 and 0.016, and then when you get it running ok and can get it hot bring those tolerances in tighter.

Also think about retorquing your head gasket pretty soon.

EGR port is the one I think you're talking about that sounds like you plugged.

 

[78GroundUp]

Good day.... Bad news.

TDC, on the compression stroke, dizzy at #1, (found the Line/TDC) not to be confused with the BB. Which is what I was using.

Adjusted valves, 1,2,3,5,7,9 .009/.015 respectively for intake and exhaust.
360* again 4,6,8,10,11,12. Again .009/.0015 respective of intake/exhaust.

Fired it up..... Sounds awesome. Very close to running at idle.

BAD NEWS - NO oil pressure. Had pressure all day yesterday, now.... none. Videos coming soon. YouTube is taking forever ....

Also - Haynes manual, line by line, t's and all, redid vacuum lines. All of them brand new. That wouldnt mess up oils pressure?

What am I missing??

 

[subzali]

First of all, don't run it at all until you figure out the oil pressure issue. Take the distributor back off again and spin the oil pump with a drill. The wire may have popped off the oil pressure sending unit, which is under the oil filter. If not

Sounds like you're making progress and really starting to figure this stuff out. Feels good huh?

 

[spotcruiser]

Did you say you do have the OEM Emissions Manual?

Here's the hose routing scans.

 

[78GroundUp]

Where I am at.

Did you say you do have the OEM Emissions Manual?

Here's the hose routing scans.

Figure 4-1 is what I used, that is the same pic/scheme as Haynes.

... I don't think I have enough college credits to use 4-2. I know I missed a couple...

BIG sucking noise under, near, behind carb, near, smog rail... Can't locate it. what I could not see in diagram where the two nipples coming off the carb spacer? Or where they go. The inset pic in 4-1, I got the first to, but could not find where #3 to the EGR nipple goes?? I think I put that one on the carb spacer (left/smaller) and then ran the VCV main to the Carb spacer (right/larger)


But I do have a suprise coming.... be patient. Soon

 

[78GroundUp]

This ones for you.... It runs at idle.

I would like to send a shout of thanks and praise to:

John K - Atlanta, GA
Chris W- Atlanta, GA
Spotcruiser - Western, WA
Subzali - Denver, CO - (damn, oil sensor wire)
*And even you Grant 5127 - Back fire this!!


And a few others I probably forgot to mention... but thanks to the Mudders, that helped me accomplish this. Still some details




This ones for you.... - YouTube

"and yes, I talk to my car...." That is me trying to get it to tell me where the "sucking" sound is coming from. And then I cuss it cause it won't tell me.

TOnight I will sleep well... it starts and runs at idle, with oil pressure. So nice.

 

[78GroundUp]

The wire may have popped off the oil pressure sending unit, which is under the oil filter. If not

Sounds like you're making progress and really starting to figure this stuff out. Feels good huh?

Of course, when you said it I had to go check it... then turned it over.... Subzali, where did you get that cape??

More to come I am sure, but all of you have been a great help. Thanks again for the patience.

I re-iterate. The most I have ever done prior to this, was install a water pump.... Could not have done this without you. So thank you.

 

[grant5127]

Man, I was waiting in anticipation in hopes of you burning rubber, jumping a ditch or something of that nature.........

 

[78GroundUp]

Let me get a pickle bucket in there first. Could probably make it without the clutch lines, but got to get the gear oil in tranny/transfer first. Oh yeah, the brake diverter would be good too. Going Is always awesome, stopping is imperative.

 

[cryoguy6075]

Also for future reference. If you want an easy way to find TDC is to stick your thumb in the spark plug hole then have someone bump start it (with coil wire removed of course) when the piston builds up pressure against your thumb then you are on the compression stroke. Then line up the marks on the flywheel. Also you can use a silver sharpie to color the TDC and BB to make it easier to see with a timing light. The silver is more reflective than the white out too.

She is sounding great! Keep up the good work and hope to see a video of her on the road soon!

 

[78GroundUp]

Sounds like you're making progress and really starting to figure this stuff out. Feels good huh?

I think I am making good progress and all the little light bulbs are awesome too. Frustration 2x and then whammo, light bulb and it makes sense. So the answer is an absolute YES!! Especially with the learning curve. I don't think I could have done this alone. Conceptually, theoretically, physically. But with All the kind people who help (amazing) like yourself. I say thank you. I hope I can share my bit of knowledge one day with someone who needs it.

 

[spotcruiser]

Congrats on the progress. Verify that you have oil dribbling out of the rocker arms when it's running. When warm, you can re-check and adjust the valves as needed.

 

[78GroundUp]

Also for future reference. If you want an easy way to find TDC is to stick your thumb in the spark plug hole then have someone bump start it (with coil wire removed of course) when the piston builds up pressure against your thumb then you are on the compression stroke. Then line up the marks on the flywheel. Also you can use a silver sharpie to color the TDC and BB to make it easier to see with a timing light. The silver is more reflective than the white out too.

She is sounding great! Keep up the good work and hope to see a video of her on the road soon!

White enamel on the BB and a red/white (two marks) on TDC also marked the crank pulley so I would know I was damn close from underneath. Don't like bumping with starter. (I know, just me)

If anyone has some pics of vacuum lines up in and around carb leading out.... I would like to verify. I am 99.1% sure on all but three guesses. Hence the small chance .09 I missed something. (99.1 is our station)
Also on vacuum.... I had one "T" that appears to be marked .05 on each out. So into the bottom of the "T" and then a .05 heading out L/R. Is this a stock fitting or just something someone sometime had and used?

Tomorrow - rear electric loom just needs to be pulled through. Clamped and positioned. Dash lights did not work tonight. Have no headlights or fender lights accessible to hook to check electric. Then Gear oil in trans/transfer case. Right rear brake cylinder rebuild. And if I have time and electric I will wire and fix right rear taillight.

How much time do I want to give before I re-check valve gaps and re torque the head? (hours? Miles?)

Anyone got a pic of the stock 4 wheel drive shifter boot? Or have one, newish?

Is it possible to rebuild the the headlight switch? If needed or just buy a new one? (just thinking ahead in case I need to. oooooooo

Thanks, so happy, the cold beer has me rambling CHEERS!!