Vibration noise when accelerating

[53kemper]

I've searched but haven't been able to find any information on the issue I am having. Hope someone can help. I have a 2000 Cruiser with 84k miles. When I accelerate there is a drone noise you can feel it in the gas pedal. Its not the tires. I just put on brand new tires. It was doing it with the old ones. It only happens on acceleration in gear. Not when I coast in gear or put it in neutral and give it gas. Feels like the drive train but Im not sure. I drives fine with out any issues but this noise/vibration is driving me crazy. Anyone have this issue?

Thanks

 

[jttexam]

I've searched but haven't been able to find any information on the issue I am having. Hope someone can help. I have a 2000 Cruiser with 84k miles. When I accelerate there is a drone noise you can feel it in the gas pedal. Its not the tires. I just put on brand new tires. It was doing it with the old ones. It only happens on acceleration in gear. Not when I coast in gear or put it in neutral and give it gas. Feels like the drive train but Im not sure. I drives fine with out any issues but this noise/vibration is driving me crazy. Anyone have this issue?

Thanks

Check for play in the driveshaft U-Joints. See if they look dry or seals cracked, etc. Grease the U-joints and see if the problem goes away. If any of these tests are positive, replace them. LC isn't here right now and I can't remember what it looks like, but if there is a carrier bearing on the driveshaft that will take grease, grease it too.

 

[krosnovski]

I have a 2000 Cruiser with 129K miles with exactly the same symptoms. Only started showing very recently. Did you ever find out what the problem was? I have always taken excellent care of my car, never had any problems before. In my case there is a vibration in the driver side footwell, it can be felt on the pedals and the footrest and on the floor as well. Increases when the car is accelerating, but never to an alarming degree, in fact it is quite subtle. In my case its merely felt as a tickling sensation. Dies down when coasting or when the car is in neutral.

 

[BBQ BOY]

I have the same issue. I can hear it and feel it in the pedals.

 

[2000UZJ]

same vibration here. I'm guessing u-joints for my rig. I feel like everything has to be replaced or fails at the same time

 

[DallasCrzr]

^^
Why would there be anything wrong with your car the way you baby it like a newborn child

 

[krosnovski]

Seems like lots of people have this issue. Have not seen any definite solutions so far.

Anybody aware of what the following TSB pertains to exactly?
A really naive question ... would the dealer perform the repair according to the TSB on a 12-year old car?

2000 Toyota Land Cruiser Power Train Service Bulletin 79275

NHTSA: Action Number: 616661 Service Bulletin Number: 79275

• Report Date:
  Jan 25, 2001
• Component:
  Power Train

Summary: Information on minimizing transfer case buzz noise. *tt



Any information would be helpful. Thanks!

 

[Tinkerer]

Seems like lots of people have this issue. Have not seen any definite solutions so far.

Anybody aware of what the following TSB pertains to exactly?
A really naive question ... would the dealer perform the repair according to the TSB on a 12-year old car?

2000 Toyota Land Cruiser Power Train Service Bulletin 79275

NHTSA: Action Number: 616661 Service Bulletin Number: 79275

• Report Date:
  Jan 25, 2001
• Component:
  Power Train

Summary: Information on minimizing transfer case buzz noise. *tt



Any information would be helpful. Thanks!

Early 100s had a buzzing noise emanating from the Hi-Lo-N transfer shift lever, under certain conditions.

My 99 LX would do it cruising at 45-50 mph in top gear under load.

TSB fix was changed linkage/bushings. TSB with final fix came out after mine was out of warranty.

(Design fix was also implemented in production around the same time as final TSB fix issued.)

I rigged mine to reduce noise, then noise further diminished after I changed to synthetic gear oil in transfer case. Still barely audible sometimes.

This may be different noise than thread subject noise.

 

[krosnovski]

Recently got a transmission fluid exchange done on my LC at 130k mi. The last transmission fluid change was done at 90k mi but that was just drain and fill. The fluid looked quite fresh and pink but got it changed anyways. The car is running just a fraction smoother than before(not that there was a problem before), the vibration issue was inhibited to some degree but not completely.

The thing that seems to have most impact on curing the vibration is the warm weather. It is getting hot in Phoenix now and I can barely feel the vibration, if at all.

Going to change the transfer case and differential fluids as well. Also planning on greasing the u-joints. Can't think of anything else at this point.

If somebody can shed more light on the vibration issue, then please do.

 

[apalt]

Resurrected this thread from a search related to the same symptoms. Anyone definitively resolve this?

 

[SupraTuRD]

For those who are experiencing this vibration... are your trucks at the stock height or lifted? If lifted, how much?

 

[SHUSH]

My truck is lifted 2 inches with IM lift and I have a slight vibration and noise when on the gas ONLY. I have driven by the back of a walmart with windows down (to hear noise better) and isolated it to the drivers front side. I think it's just a universal joint.

I believe people are experiencing one of 2 things: ujoint failure...feel vibration on one side and/or in pedals or either transmission/driveline issues.

Driveshaft issue can be remedy with zerk greasing in 90% of cases from what I have found. (and done thereafter with oil changes) If noise, vibration continues it's usually the transfer case from what threads say. I have read some threads where guys hear a slight whine and for some a fluid change helps and for others it doesn't.

I think at the end of the day there are so many variables: lift, tires, speed, use, sensitivity to maintenance, etc. that a universal fix is nigh impossible.....esp for any gear/transmission noise.


my .02 cents on digging up this same issue/s

 

[cruiser03]

Had this issue and changed the transmission isolator - part of the engine mount located at the tranny and no more vibrations. Big piece of rubber under there that gets old and hard. cheap to replace, easy DIY job.

 

[SupraTuRD]

Had this issue and changed the transmission isolator - part of the engine mount located at the tranny and no more vibrations. Big piece of rubber under there that gets old and hard. cheap to replace, easy DIY job.

Are you referring to the rear transmission mount? I'm not aware of another isolator.

 

[SupraTuRD]

I had a pretty annoying vibration under load once I lifted the LC 1.5 inches. I recently installed the Slee diff drop kit and the vibration is almost gone. I'm convinced that the vibration was caused by the CV's that wore in at a certain angle over a majority of the truck's life and the diff drop kit put the axles closer to their original running angles. My axles are still original... I'll report back after I get around to installing new ones.

 

[cruiser03]

In the parts listing it is Engine & Transmission mount - Rear Mount. It is the only one that supports the transmission. Part Nbr 12371-50180 About $86 If your truck is old it should be replaced. All these vibrations add up and they are difficult to isolate, the best way it to replace them and move on to the next possible cause. Old rubber is always bad rubber.

 

[gwatts]

Bumping an old thread...

I had this noise after raising the front to 21.5" to better match the taller 864s in the back. Old tires, new tires, same noise. New UCAs, same noise. Alignment, noise. Noticed a leaking cv boot, decided to install rebuilt half shafts on both sides. After 200k, the angles may not be friendly anymore and the more aggressive lift aggravated this causing noise on acceleration. New half shafts, NO noise, it was more of a 'grrrr' anyway. Hope this helps.

Driveline angels are off a bit visually, but no vibration/grrr so won't be messing with that yet. I have the adjustable rear UCA/LCAs so I can point the rear diff down a little if needed.

 

[Phx99Cruiser]

Mine's a '99 with a 2" lift and Slee diff-drop installed, 285x75R tires for 10+ years now, she just rolled over the 200K miles mark last month. Started making a vibration-like noise, something between a rattle and grind, but only when accelerating moderately in the 18-22 mph range when taking off from a stop. If I accelerate hard I don't hear it, after I get past that 22mph the noise goes away. The noise does not happen at any higher speeds that I can tell.

I've rechecked my transfer case fluid, I do all my own changes. I've also checked for any loose plates or other items by hand but cannot find anything. I have not checked the rear mount yet but will.

Noise started lightly about 5-6 months ago, has slowly become worse since then.

I'll post any findings if I come to resolution...

 

[ewrk1989]

In my case, I've been noticing a slight "growl" during acceleration in the 1200-1600 RPM range. It is accompanied by some vibration up through the floor by my feet, but nothing through the steering wheel (so I don't think I messed up the wheel bearings). Sometimes there is also a cyclical wub-wub-wub noise at higher cruising speeds, but I don't believe this is from the tires.

I've got all new wheel bearings, new-remanned CV joints, and all the diff/t-case fluids are new. I have been greasing the u-joints and yokes a few times now. U-joints get plenty of grease through, but very little old grease came out the first time so I feel like they were mostly dry for a long time--this is why I think they need replacement. The slip yokes take grease, but not very much makes it past the seal, and the yoke extends pretty far. When it doesn't go past the seal, it will actually come out the end of the yoke, in the area where the u-joint is. Is this normal or is that happening because a seal broke? Anyway, when that happens I take out the zirk and drive around the block to relieve the excess pressure.

All this, and I still do have a little bit of the clunk when shifting between R-N-D. Greasing has helped some but I believe I should try to take off the drive shaft and actually clean it out.

I am looking at the FSM and it says to remove the drive shaft, then the sleeve yoke should be able to just pull out from the shaft. What I can't tell is does this give enough access to clean everything? Will there be any seals/non-reusable parts that need replacing or can I just push the sleeve yoke back on? It does say that to remove the dust cover you have to "cut the dust cover spirally at the pressing-in part with a saw and pry it off with a chisel and hammer." so that seems destructive...

I got under the truck and tried to wiggle the driveshafts at each of the u-joints and there is no discernible play. I suppose the joints could still be bad even with no play...something like galled up needles that don't like to spin, but don't necessarily have wiggle when everything is packed with fresh grease.

Otherwise a stock LX470...no lift or anything.

 

[yotaboy]

In my case, I've been noticing a slight "growl" during acceleration in the 1200-1600 RPM range. It is accompanied by some vibration up through the floor by my feet, but nothing through the steering wheel (so I don't think I messed up the wheel bearings). Sometimes there is also a cyclical wub-wub-wub noise at higher cruising speeds, but I don't believe this is from the tires.

I've got all new wheel bearings, new-remanned CV joints, and all the diff/t-case fluids are new. I have been greasing the u-joints and yokes a few times now. U-joints get plenty of grease through, but very little old grease came out the first time so I feel like they were mostly dry for a long time--this is why I think they need replacement. The slip yokes take grease, but not very much makes it past the seal, and the yoke extends pretty far. When it doesn't go past the seal, it will actually come out the end of the yoke, in the area where the u-joint is. Is this normal or is that happening because a seal broke? Anyway, when that happens I take out the zirk and drive around the block to relieve the excess pressure.

All this, and I still do have a little bit of the clunk when shifting between R-N-D. Greasing has helped some but I believe I should try to take off the drive shaft and actually clean it out.

I am looking at the FSM and it says to remove the drive shaft, then the sleeve yoke should be able to just pull out from the shaft. What I can't tell is does this give enough access to clean everything? Will there be any seals/non-reusable parts that need replacing or can I just push the sleeve yoke back on? It does say that to remove the dust cover you have to "cut the dust cover spirally at the pressing-in part with a saw and pry it off with a chisel and hammer." so that seems destructive...

I got under the truck and tried to wiggle the driveshafts at each of the u-joints and there is no discernible play. I suppose the joints could still be bad even with no play...something like galled up needles that don't like to spin, but don't necessarily have wiggle when everything is packed with fresh grease.

Otherwise a stock LX470...no lift or anything.

i'm betting your drive flanges are showing wear, causing the clunk i removed my driveshafts and everything looked fine! my vehicle also had a whine noise while accelerating at slow speed in the the cold which i think was the t-case, went away after changing all fluids and adding bg multi gear concentrate to them. i also have a buzz like vibration at lower speeds at times which i'm pretty sure is a heat shield on the cat's rattling/buzzing... dealing with a bad vibration on hard acceleration now from like 40-70 mph have a new set of cv shafts coming in today so hopefully that resolves it

sorry to bring alive an old thread... seems as if there are a lot of different "vibraions/noises" these trucks can make