Vibration / noise when above 50 mph when gas pedal pressed *SOLVED* Bad U-joint (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Jan 21, 2016
Threads
24
Messages
215
Location
Statesville, NC
** Solved **

Just posting in case this can help others...

The last few days I noticed an increase in noise and vibration when traveling above 50mph, specifically when I was pressing the gas pedal. When I would take my foot off the gas pedal, it would stop or mostly stop. This morning while driving from Charlotte to Raleigh it was getting worse and by the time I got there I could tell I needed to find a shop, or something much worse was probably going to happen. So I gambled and literally pulled in to the nearest mechanic using google maps.
BTW, earlier I had also sent a note to the great Dave Rushing (roadstr6) describing the symptoms and asked if he was familiar. He said it sounded like a bad U-joint and gave specific tips to isolate if it was related to the front driveshaft or the rear driveshaft. I conveyed his tips to the mechanic, who appreciated it, and found that it was the front U-joint that was bad (Dave had actually told me the front ones tend to go faster than the rear).
Dave even took the time to send me the part #’s and said that I could take care of it after I drove back to Charlotte in “2WD” (I was short for time and wasn’t able to stay over for a complete repair, as I had to get back to Charlotte - so this was a huge relief.)
I made it back home tonight just fine and maybe even got a little better mpg in the process since I was in “2WD” 😉

Wanted to give Dave a big shoutout for all his help!

Here were some of his suggestions:
“Sounds like bad u-joints to me. Probably in the front driveshaft. The fronts tend to go bad more often than the rear. U joints should run you about $300 per shaft including labor. Get OEM u joints or matsuba. Toyota PN is 04371-60070 for the fronts (2required) and 04371-60210 for rear (2 required). Good luck and let me know how it goes.”

Also, with regards to determining which was bad, and how to make it home in a pinch... (2WD)

“Best way to know is to get underneath and check for slop in the front and rear driveshafts at the joints. If one is bad, you can remove it and continue to drive BUT there is a little gyration that needs to be done in order to drive with only one shaft. I believe you shift into 4lo (which locks your center diff) and then pull the DIFF LOCK fuse to keep it engaged. Then shift back to 4hi and drive away.”

This worked for me and bought me some needed time - and I’ll have the repair completed very soon.

One more shoutout to very friendly & helpful mechanic Ray Weatherspoon (rayweatherspoonauto.com) who understood I was in a bind and worked me in unexpectedly, and quickly got me back on the road (using Dave’s tips).
Weatherspoon Auto
1014 Trinity Rd, Raleigh, NC 27607
(919) 851-9519
 
** Solved **

Just posting in case this can help others...

The last few days I noticed an increase in noise and vibration when traveling above 50mph, specifically when I was pressing the gas pedal. When I would take my foot off the gas pedal, it would stop or mostly stop. This morning while driving from Charlotte to Raleigh it was getting worse and by the time I got there I could tell I needed to find a shop, or something much worse was probably going to happen. So I gambled and literally pulled in to the nearest mechanic using google maps.
BTW, earlier I had also sent a note to the great Dave Rushing (roadstr6) describing the symptoms and asked if he was familiar. He said it sounded like a bad U-joint and gave specific tips to isolate if it was related to the front driveshaft or the rear driveshaft. I conveyed his tips to the mechanic, who appreciated it, and found that it was the front U-joint that was bad (Dave had actually told me the front ones tend to go faster than the rear).
Dave even took the time to send me the part #’s and said that I could take care of it after I drove back to Charlotte in “2WD” (I was short for time and wasn’t able to stay over for a complete repair, as I had to get back to Charlotte - so this was a huge relief.)
I made it back home tonight just fine and maybe even got a little better mpg in the process since I was in “2WD” 😉

Wanted to give Dave a big shoutout for all his help!

Here were some of his suggestions:
“Sounds like bad u-joints to me. Probably in the front driveshaft. The fronts tend to go bad more often than the rear. U joints should run you about $300 per shaft including labor. Get OEM u joints or matsuba. Toyota PN is 04371-60070 for the fronts (2required) and 04371-60210 for rear (2 required). Good luck and let me know how it goes.”

Also, with regards to determining which was bad, and how to make it home in a pinch... (2WD)

“Best way to know is to get underneath and check for slop in the front and rear driveshafts at the joints. If one is bad, you can remove it and continue to drive BUT there is a little gyration that needs to be done in order to drive with only one shaft. I believe you shift into 4lo (which locks your center diff) and then pull the DIFF LOCK fuse to keep it engaged. Then shift back to 4hi and drive away.”

This worked for me and bought me some needed time - and I’ll have the repair completed very soon.

One more shoutout to very friendly & helpful mechanic Ray Weatherspoon (rayweatherspoonauto.com) who understood I was in a bind and worked me in unexpectedly, and quickly got me back on the road (using Dave’s tips).
Weatherspoon Auto
1014 Trinity Rd, Raleigh, NC 27607
(919) 851-9519
I’m just glad I was able to help and I’m happy that you got home safe. I’ve got a ujoint vibe as well to contend with, so don’t feel too bad. It happens.
 

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