Vibration 10-15mph after adding more caster. Why? (1 Viewer)

[SNLC]

Seems with all these threads on caster, radius arms, DC shafts ect ect I have yet so see a single post about setting it all up correctly.

All of your bolt on options are bandaids.

To do this correctly you need to cut all the brackets off the axle housing, you then set the pinion angle to stock, you then cut and turn the knuckle balls setting caster where you desire, say 3-4*. You then weld it all back on.

Now what you have is a lifted Cruiser with stock geometry.

Additionally, Diamond will sell you a housing for $1500 (not a lot more than a set of RA) so then you can simply weld on the suspension brackets you cut off your stock axle.

This will net all of you folks who are trying to fix issues with bandaids a perfectly setup front axle and suspension. You can do this for any lift height be it 2“ or 8”. You don’t need caster correcting bushings or radius arms or plates or a DC shaft or a part time kit or any of that stuff. All the money you are spending on that can go to a super sick and very stout front housing.

I realize fabrication is beyond most people here but not all. You can also set it all up yourself, mark everything and have somebody else weld it. I suggest that for those who can’t weld.

Is it more work than bolting in such and such part? Absolutely but unless you buy a housing, it is far cheaper than bandaids.



Cheers

 

[Surfdc]

Seems with all these threads on caster, radius arms, DC shafts ect ect I have yet so see a single post about setting it all up correctly.

All of your bolt on options are bandaids.

To do this correctly you need to cut all the brackets off the axle housing, you then set the pinion angle to stock, you then cut and turn the knuckle balls setting caster where you desire, say 3-4*. You then weld it all back on.

Now what you have is a lifted Cruiser with stock geometry.

Additionally, Diamond will sell you a housing for $1500 (not a lot more than a set of RA) so then you can simply weld on the suspension brackets you cut off your stock axle.

This will net all of you folks who are trying to fix issues with bandaids a perfectly setup front axle and suspension. You can do this for any lift height be it 2“ or 8”. You don’t need caster correcting bushings or radius arms or plates or a DC shaft or a part time kit or any of that stuff. All the money you are spending on that can go to a super sick and very stout front housing.

I realize fabrication is beyond most people here but not all. You can also set it all up yourself, mark everything and have somebody else weld it. I suggest that for those who can’t weld.

Is it more work than bolting in such and such part? Absolutely but unless you buy a housing, it is far cheaper than bandaids.



Cheers

I thought the reason most were not doing this is because the radius arms would hit the tie rod?
Also in $oCal, I would have to drop the cruiser off at a shop to weld, but that would also hopefully cut the brackets off, as I do not have those tools. This is actually very expensive as they charge by the hour. Otherwise I’m just hauling around a front axle to different shops. Which means the cruiser is on jack stands in the garage. Which is not going to happen with a 3 and 5 yr old. It is also my daily driver.
So a 1/2 hour here and there during naps or after bath time to bolt on a bandaid is my reality. The advantage being that at the next nap I can run out and simply unbolt it to try something else, or return to what worked in the past, or to stock.

 

[SNLC]

I thought the reason most were not doing this is because the radius arms would hit the tie rod?
Also in $oCal, I would have to drop the cruiser off at a shop to weld, but that would also hopefully cut the brackets off, as I do not have those tools. This is actually very expensive as they charge by the hour. Otherwise I’m just hauling around a front axle to different shops. Which means the cruiser is on jack stands in the garage. Which is not going to happen with a 3 and 5 yr old. It is also my daily driver.
So a 1/2 hour here and there during naps or after bath time to bolt on a bandaid is my reality. The advantage being that at the next nap I can run out and simply unbolt it to try something else, or return to what worked in the past, or to stock.

I did say it is not for everyone.

And no it wont be an issue with tie rod to radius arm because what you are essentially doing is setting it up to stock geometry with whatever lift you desire.


Cheers

 

[landtank]

Seems with all these threads on caster, radius arms, DC shafts ect ect I have yet so see a single post about setting it all up correctly.

All of your bolt on options are bandaids.

To do this correctly you need to cut all the brackets off the axle housing, you then set the pinion angle to stock, you then cut and turn the knuckle balls setting caster where you desire, say 3-4*. You then weld it all back on.

Now what you have is a lifted Cruiser with stock geometry.

Additionally, Diamond will sell you a housing for $1500 (not a lot more than a set of RA) so then you can simply weld on the suspension brackets you cut off your stock axle.

This will net all of you folks who are trying to fix issues with bandaids a perfectly setup front axle and suspension. You can do this for any lift height be it 2“ or 8”. You don’t need caster correcting bushings or radius arms or plates or a DC shaft or a part time kit or any of that stuff. All the money you are spending on that can go to a super sick and very stout front housing.

I realize fabrication is beyond most people here but not all. You can also set it all up yourself, mark everything and have somebody else weld it. I suggest that for those who can’t weld.

Is it more work than bolting in such and such part? Absolutely but unless you buy a housing, it is far cheaper than bandaids.



Cheers

I've set up a lot of trucks using my bandaids and have always ended up with caster within factory specs and no vibrations. The problem isn't with the bandaids but those who want to work outside or beyond their inherent limitations. And those limitations are set by how Toyota designed and built the axle housing not the bandaids themselves.

But there is always room for another opinion to sway people into doing something different or posting how after decades of modifying these trucks nobody is smart enough to figure out the obvious.

welcome to the frey and look forward to people taking your advice and showing us how it's done.

 

[SNLC]

I've set up a lot of trucks using my bandaids and have always ended up with caster within factory specs and no vibrations. The problem isn't with the bandaids but those who want to work outside or beyond their inherent limitations. And those limitations are set by how Toyota designed and built the axle housing not the bandaids themselves.

But there is always room for another opinion to sway people into doing something different or posting how after decades of modifying these trucks nobody is smart enough to figure out the obvious.

welcome to the frey and look forward to people taking your advice and showing us how it's done.

Your caster plates are a bandaid. So are bushings and so are arms and so are DC shafts. Yup said that agin, sorry if it hurts your feelings.

If yours work great, caster plates are my least fav of all and used the least in my shop. If yours solve both caster and pinion angle issues for a vast and wide variety of lifts and suspension setups then why is everyone not using them to fix these issues?

The guy above said fab is not for him and gave legitimate reasons why. No worries. Your product may suit him best.

However with thousands of posts on mud for decades about these issues and I can’t find many if any about doing a little fab work to set it up right for whatever lift you are running. When it comes to fab it’s pretty simple, far easier than a 3-link. Plenty of DIY here who are capable of doing this. If you don’t have a plasma cutter and a good welding machine but you are good with a grinder, a level, a tape measure and so forth you can still get it done as I mentioned above.

Yes if you pay a shop to do the work it is time and materials. A good fab shop can do the job in 3-4 days or less. Yes you can’t just go changing it if you want to go up and down so some thought, planning and commitment to your final build helps.

Or you can buy caster plates, RA, bushings, DC shaft, part time kit and so forth and still find you have issues here or there or it doesn’t suit what you want like full time 4wd.



Cheers

 

[landtank]

Your caster plates are a bandaid. So are bushings and so are arms and so are DC shafts. Yup said that agin, sorry if it hurts your feelings.

If yours work great, caster plates are my least fav of all and used the least in my shop. If yours solve both caster and pinion angle issues for a vast and wide variety of lifts and suspension setups then why is everyone not using them to fix these issues?

The guy above said fab is not for him and gave legitimate reasons why. No worries. Your product may suit him best.

However with thousands of posts on mud for decades about these issues and I can’t find many if any about doing a little fab work to set it up right for whatever lift you are running. When it comes to fab it’s pretty simple, far easier than a 3-link. Plenty of DIY here who are capable of doing this. If you don’t have a plasma cutter and a good welding machine but you are good with a grinder, a level, a tape measure and so forth you can still get it done as I mentioned above.

Yes if you pay a shop to do the work it is time and materials. A good fab shop can do the job in 3-4 days or less. Yes you can’t just go changing it if you want to go up and down so some thought, planning and commitment to your final build helps.

Or you can buy caster plates, RA, bushings, DC shaft, part time kit and so forth and still find you have issues here or there or it doesn’t suit what you want like full time 4wd.



Cheers

drop the mic and just show us all how it's done. I'm honestly interested in seeing you use your technique on an 80 series with a 4" lift.

 

[SNLC]

drop the mic and just show us all how it's done. I'm honestly interested in seeing you use your technique on an 80 series with a 4" lift.

I have plenty of builds here for over 15yrs showing how I do it. Three massive ones currently that are on going.

I will also be continuing to do builds and show my shops work on this forum. We are a build shop, we don’t make off the shelf products.

Again sorry if you get hurt feelings over me not liking your caster plates. Whatever, I am sure you don’t need any of my business. I could go on about issues I have experienced with caster plates such as death wobble and tie rod contacting radius arms but that is not the point of my posts or info I am providing.

Cheers

 

[landtank]

I have plenty of builds here for over 15yrs showing how I do it. Three massive ones currently that are on going.

I will also be continuing to do builds and show my shops work on this forum. We are a build shop, we don’t make off the shelf products.

Again sorry if you get hurt feelings over me not liking your caster plates. Whatever, I am sure you don’t need any of my business. I could go on about issues I have experienced with caster plates such as death wobble and tie rod contacting radius arms but that is not the point of my posts or info I am providing.

Cheers

Cool, so you have a link you can share showcasing an 80 build using the better technique.

 

[SNLC]

Cool, so you have a link you can share showcasing an 80 build using the better technique.

In time, yup absolutely. One is in the works now.

When I can afford a set of Diamond housings I will be putting them under my 1995 HDJ80 Ute chop.

Cheers

 

[Surfdc]

I am interested to see your technique as well.

as for feelings, no ones feeling are hurt more than mine. I am here in by bathtub crying because you said my cruiser has bandaids. Im sure Rick will loose sleep tonight too!
but seriously, your option of cut and turn is another way to do this. So is all the bolt-ons
The cut and turn is out of the question for me. I wanted a less permanent option because then i can change it later.

 

[SNLC]

Cool, so you have a link you can share showcasing an 80 build using the better technique.

Since you seem to have doubt.

Builds - PZJ70 build-refurbish!?

So I recently picked up a 1990 PZJ70. I am a vendor and I can go two ways with this. 1)Keep it all to myself until it is time for resale. I do plan to sell this truck and that is why I bought it. 2) I can do a build/refurbish thread as I prepare the truck for resale and bring it up to my...

forum.ih8mud.com

That is a coil conversion I did on a 70-series. Not an 80 but same thing axle side as far as fab. Only reason I used Delta arms was I needed a custom length arm due to trans crossmember, which they made 1.5” shorter than stock.

Caster correction and pinion angle build in the conversion as you can clearly see by the many pics and details.

Cheers

 

[landtank]

So not an 80, not lifted 4” and not a radius arm setup.

and doing a cut and turn on a low lift leaf sprung truck seems like a lot of work when you could just as easily bolt in a degree shim, but I applaud your conviction not to use band aids.

 

[Surfdc]

Wanted to let members know I am continuing updating this thread over here:

Another "truck pulls to the left after alignment" thread, need advice please!

new bearings need to be pressed on and you really should tear the diff down and inspect it all in order to confidently rule it out as the source. 😐

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[Slamfire94]

I have the same lift and same arms, did new u joints when the lift went on along with replacing every suspension bushing and tie rod. Had a slight vibration when it was all done but an alignment smoothed my ride out.

What exactly did they "align"? did they just re-set the toe?

 

[Pascoscout]

What exactly did they "align"? did they just re-set the toe?

Since that's all that's really adjustable on these I assume that's it. The shop didn't indicate that they did any significant work. Either way it fixed the vibration and everything is (or was, its been several years) in spec.