Very hard to pull out Choke - any tips? (1 Viewer)

[Rusto]

I searched a bunch of threads and found out how to rebuild my choke cable, but I have a newer choke cable so I don't think I need that
Previous choke cable broke at the knob end, as it was difficult to pull out and eventually the plastic snapped I could no longer mount it in the dash.

New choke cable works great in the fact that I can pull it out and adjust the idle during a cold start from 1,000 RPM all the way up to 2,500 if I want.
But it's too the point it almost takes two hands to pull out the choke cable.

Any tips on how to get it be a smooth operator?

 

[Seth S]

So if you have a new cable that works smoothly on its own but is a bear to pull when its hooked up then you have a carb issue. You can pull the air cleaner off and have a look inside the carb. Choke plate could be sticking or something wrong in the linkage. I'm assuming the choke cable isnt pinched too tight by a clamp somewhere or routed incorrectly into a tight bend somehow.

 

[DFXR]

^ Agreed. Get the air cleaner off and work the choke manually at the carb, and see how that feels. I routed mine once with a too-tight turn as it came off the carb and it would bind up.

Also, did you get a new Toyota cable or an aftermarket one? That can make a difference.

 

[Rusto]

Thanks. Toyota cable, rebuilt carb with same issue. I'm thinking the routing may be the issue. I'm having to pull everything off to fix exhaust leak here in a bit, so I'll just take a look while doing that. The cable itself moves freely when not attached.

I'll be sure to post the result here. So frustrating to find a thread that touches on the topic, then no resolution... I don't want to be that guy

 

[DFXR]

Thanks. Toyota cable, rebuilt carb with same issue. I'm thinking the routing may be the issue. I'm having to pull everything off to fix exhaust leak here in a bit, so I'll just take a look while doing that. The cable itself moves freely when not attached.

I'll be sure to post the result here. So frustrating to find a thread that touches on the topic, then no resolution... I don't want to be that guy

This is the only routing picture I have. From right before I replaced manifolds and air rail.

Pretty sure I put it back together the same way. Not exactly factory with the zip tie but it has always worked. Getting that last bend in where it comes in on the valve cover side of the carb is the trick. Unfortunately, you can't see that in the photo.

 

[BlackCat]

Definitely not right.

 

[Rusto]

Finally got around to this last night. The cable was poorly routed. Once I re -routed it, it worked like a charm.

Thanks @DFXR , @Seth S and @BlackCat for your help.

Its not often that I get to fix something on my 60 for free!

 

[ToyotaMatt]

VintageTEqParts.com

vintageteqparts.com

OEM TOYOTA LandCruiser Choke Cable 78310-90A04 Fits 8/80-1987 FJ60 - VintageTEqParts.com

OEM TOYOTA LandCruiser FJ60 Choke Cable 78310-90A04 Fits 8/80-1987 8/80-9/82 MUST Enlarge the D GROOVE HOLE 1mm NO KNOB INCLUDED...

vintageteqparts.com

​