Veggie/diesel fuel tank (1 Viewer)

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Biodiesel vs WVO

Isn't it great that there are Land Cruiser owners who are discussing the ideas of biodiesel and WVO? Only on the International Board. I just love it! Of course some of the other boards think we are all "Green Hippies". Funny though, they might come around when fossil fuel prices really hit hard like they do in Europe or anywhere else in the world.

Someone mentioned that setting up a WVO system would cost around $2K. This is a little high. I am figuring on around $1,000 for my setup which should be pretty trick.

Here is what I plan to do: First, I need a heated WVO tank. I plan on using the tried and tested method of heating with heated coolant. Some people use a transmission oil cooler or some use a series of copper tubing coils. I plan on tapping off of the rear heater hoses. From the tank, I will have an inlet and outlet for the coolant to run through. i will run my fuel line (metal fuel line) through the inlet side of the coolant line. A line inside a line. By it going through the inlet side, it may be a few degrees hotter than when coming out of the tank.

Some may ask , how are you going to get the fuel line inside and out of the coolant line? There are T-fittings found in hardware stores that I can run the fuel line in/out of the coolant line.

Some people think that you have to heat the entire tank to the optimum temperature (around 170 F) but this is not necessary. This would take hours if you run a 30 gallon tank and the ambient temp is below freezing, In fact, it may never get that hot. Basically, the idea of the heated tank is to get the WVO viscous enough to flow through the lines.

After the fuel line exits the heated line within a line, the WVO will then run through a dual fluid heat exchanger mounted in the engine compartment. These are found at any good plumbing supply store and are roughly $100. This heat exchanger will be plumbed into the top radiator hose where the coolant is at its hottest. After exiting this heat exchanger, the veggie oil will run directly into the injection pump where in turn it will be go through the injectors, combust, and exit the tail pipe where all passers-by will smell it and wonder why they just got the urge for French Fries or other fried foods.

Basically, I plan on running two different fuel systems. One system will be the original diesel system using it's own lift pump (Cummins has a lift pump as well as injection pump) and filter system.

The WVO system will have its own set of filters and electric fuel pump. The only thing the 2 systems will share is the injection pump.

I will do this for 2 reasons. 1) to isiolate the two filter systems. If the WVO filter(s) becomes clogged, I can switch it over to diesel and get home or somewhere safer than the side of the road to change the filter. 2) it will take less time for the shutdown off of veggie. To clear out the injection pump of WVO it might take a minute at the most. More like seconds but I will play it on the safer side.

One other modification that people do is to cut into the return line. While running on WVO the return line goes right back into the injection pump instead of going back to the fuel tank. This allows the heated veggie oil to remain very hot and it's one less line that you have to run all the way back to the tank. You have to cut into the return line as you do not want your WVO to run back into your diesel tank. Bad, Very Bad.

I think if you guys up in the Great White North were to follow this system, you would be fine in the winter. As long as your engine coolant is running hot enough, theoretically your veggie oil is as well. I will probably run a temp gauge with numbers for the veggie line. I will pipe it in right after the dual fluid heat exchanger and before the injection pump. I might also run a PSI gauge to see how well the veggie oil is flowing through the lines. About 5 psi is max and less than 3, your filter are getting clogged.

The idea of running WVO is filter, filter, filter. You can't filter enough. The better the oil is filtered, the better it will run and it's cheaper on filters. I've got some pretty good plans for prefiltering if anybody wants to hear them.

I don't plan on acquiring veggie oil while on a road trip. Too much of a pain in the ass. All of my filtering will be done at home. I have an unlimited supply of WVO so acquiring oil is not a problem. While on road trips, I will just use both tanks full of diesel. Or if I stay in a place awhile, then I would consider refilling the WVO.

I will run a 2 stage switch, like a headlight switch off of 40. First phase (parking lights) will switch the coolant and start running the coolant into the WVO tank. The second phase (headlights on) will run the grease baby!!!

Running on WVO is a problem for those that do not drive great distances. It's just too much work if you can't get your coolant hot enough. Biodiesel might be a better option for these type of drivers.

But, I ask you, why would you run a diesel anyways if you are just running to the grocery store or the bank? Diesels are meant to run. It takes so much energy to get them started and heated (no spark plugs, remember) , why would you fire up your diesel if you are not going to drive it? Use your gasser Cruiser and save your diesel. This is why the big rigs don't shut their diesels off. I have never seen a trucker start their truck and then immediately shut it down after a few minutes. Absurd, totally absurd. I intentionally discourage people from buying diesel equipped cars/trucks for this reason. It's hard on the engines and rebuilding a diesel is quite costly.

So, there's my plan. Any comments, concerns, suggestions are always welcome.
 
But said:
Soe great ideas there. I would like to see one of these line within a line fittings.

However, I think the above paragraph is old school thinking. It doesn't take much time to get a diesel to run.. even in the depths of winter, 2 minutes of driving and the engine is running fine... the coolant may not be up tot temp, but it takes very little time for the head/block to be warm enough to properly combust fuel. If you're just sitting there and idling (very bad) then it will take longer, of course. I say start it, and as soon it's got oil pressure and you can get the engine to rev above idle, it's ready to drive. And once it's warm, it can stop and start without glow plugs for the rest of the day, or at least the next 2-3 hours if it's winter time cold out.

Now, it's true that a diesel at idle only uses a air fuel mix of 200:1, compared to a gasser whcih is closer to 12:1, and hence they can idle for almost forever and use little fuel, but idling them for long periods is not health due to cylendar wall glazing, low oil pressure, and other things that have been beat to death on other forums. The reason that big riggers let them idle is primarily to keep them warm so they can sleep in the back, or to keep the A/C running while they sleep in the back. There's no other reason to keep a diesel idling.

Nor will a diesel on short hauls use more fuel than a gasser just because it's a short haul.

Nor is short hauls more particularily harmful toa diesel than a gasser. All engines should avoid short hauls. An engine run for just a few minutes will not get warm enough to boil off any condensed water in the oil, intake, or exhaust. This water, if never evaporated off, will rust the inside of the engine. Nothing diesel specifc here.

Peter Straub
 
Maybe it is old school thinking. Even still, I won't shut off my diesel until it has reached operating temperature. And for my 4BT it takes about 15 minutes. I do realize that not reaching operating temperature in a diesel as well as a gasser is not good. Nor will I condone letting the motor idle for hours on end. During winter startups, I do let mine idle for at least 5 minutes before I take off.

What I was referring to were people that start their car, drive for a block and shut it off. They run a quick errand for 5 minutes, start their car again drive for a few minutes, shut it off, on and on. My mother in law does this to her 100 series. It drives me nuts.

As far as seeing pics, did you want to see pics of the T-fitting or the line itself? I have no pics of either but a quick search on some of WVO sites would bring up some of both. A very informative book about all of this is "From the Fryer to the Fuel Tank" by Joshua Tickell. Greasel.com is also very informtive but I think I will pass on one of their kits. Lots of good sites out there.
 
crushers said:
now lets just go with $2500 for a nice round figure, you can buy 2942 L of fuel which works out to 29,500 km just to break even.
cheers

even longer for SVO, using new oil.

But using new oil, it can be bought in cubes for less than 40 cents or cheaper a liter.

so if you don't like doing messy filtering this is an option.

average km's for many is 24,000kms.

so maybe 2 yrs for less frequent drivers.

now this sounds hippie.....but some people also want to switch to lower emmisions. and they say to save money not to look like a greenie.....eh?

I will say it straight out. as well as being slightly cheaper going SVO than diesel I would also do it to be less polluting.

100% right, for short hauls why bother. Its a pain. and you still got dino being used. if you drive 30 mins plus in each direction. I think it will work.

as far as purging goes, run a turbo timer. theres got to be a way to wire it in there to purge while shutting down. its a quite quick process, purging.
 
I also forgot to say,
there is no need to purge unless you are shutting down for over one hour.
so you can do short haul, start/shut down/start etc.... it would be great for couriers etc .

also good for a wheeling rig, where its running all day and then you would make all the other drivers hungry....

on another note. Wayne is the most realistic and doubtful one of the bunch in here. But he's also one the best set up and capable mech on here. I think he should try a dual tank set up and prove he's right............lol not the other way, eh?

also I feel you could offer this as an option to sell. Just like PI. Remember a lot of your customers are choosing diesel cruiser to be different .....maybe, I dunno. I think it could be a pkg you could offer for sale.

Just an idea.
 
BB,
i thank you for the compliments but when it comes to alternative fuels i will leave that up to you boys. i have very little interest in alternative fuels.
now that being said, when the wife cuts off my allowance then i might first in line for free fuel...
;^)

there are quite a few of us that know our way around our cruisers. Peter has tried some pretty far out stuff on TippyR, Marc is very handy when it comes to fabracating and Bruce probably knows more than me when it comes to what can be used in place of what and where to get it. Greg and Sheldon know the import diesel engines extremely well. Rob seems to know his way around doing swaps and refurbishings. Dan and Kevin in Edmonton can find almost anything for our cruisers. Dave is a great contact in Japan for those extremely hard to find parts. Dave in the States has a ton of knowledge. There are many others that all pitch in that i am missing.We all work together to make for a very imformative board.

the only difference is i seem to have a bit of a obsesion with trying to help out and the others actually have a life.

cheers
 
crushers said:
BB,
i.
now that being said, when the wife cuts off my allowance then i might first in line for free fuel...
;^)


cheers

an allowance..... ?

just trying to entice you to prove us wrong,,

using alternate fuels and pitfalls of them is not for everyone.

I agree this board has lots of great knowledgeble members.
 
Tank fabrication?

So...a very informative (and opinionated :) ) thread. Did the tank fabrication projects go anywhere. I'm in the market for an aux for WVO - after a year of running bio, I'm very happy with performance (and price!!) but want to spend less time in my shed brewing the stuff and more time driving my Cruiser.

Let me know if anyone's got a magic solution!
 
Been thinking about a fuel tank for a 60 series that would be split 1/3 for diesel and 2/3 for veggie.

The idea would be to run a heat exchanger in the tank that would use the rear heater hoses(Sheldons idea) to worm the veggie before flipping the fuel switch and switching tanks.

And the idea of the filler neck with a switching valve that changes direction for filling two tanks like the one Slee Off road sells(I think).

Any improvements or ideas on making this a better system would be appreciated.

Rob


I was wondering how a copper coil connected to the fuel line and coiled around the exhaust pipe just below the manifold would work at preheating the fuel?
 
check out frybird.com they have a great switching system nice heat exchanger.
 
Veggie Oil Fuel

I have a buddy running straight Veg oil as fuel in a 6.5 Chev. He has two tanks one diesel, one veg oil. He starts the truck with diesel and once the truck is warmed up he switches the system to pure veg oil. He uses the engine coolant to preheat the veg oil using a homemade heat exchanger. He uses a motor oil filter (standard fram $5 filter) to further clean the veg fuel before it hits with main fuel line. Before he shuts it down he stitches back to diesel to clean the system and properly prime it for the next start.

He's been running it for 3 years now and it works great. It's not a short haul truck and he usually doesn't bother switching fuel usnless he's running the truck for several hours at a time. It's not a great setup for most people, but in a commercial vehicle that's running all the time it would work fine.

And yes his truck smells like french fries.........
 
When I did mine, I went to a junk yard and bought a tank from a J**p cherokee. Works perfectly, but mine is not a 60.
I say measure the area you want to put your tank and hit the junk yards with a tape measure and some tools.
 

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