VC removed. Do you have to have a CLD switch to make things work correctly? (1 Viewer)

[rfwj]

1997 LC. VC removed.

If you remove the VC, do you have to have a CDL switch to lock the CDL to make the rear wheels drive shaft lock in high? why would only the front wheels work after a VC removal? Why would the rear wheels not work if the VC was removed? no CLD switch thanks

 

[IdahoDoug]

There's a parallel thread here on the VC removal - look for "weird hum under load" title. Seems like removing the VC is transparent and the automatic diff lock switch on your center will work as normal on low range. Front and rear axles powered as normal and no need for CDL switch.

 

[rfwj]

thanks. why would only the front drive shaft turn and not the rear? it seems like the rear would almost always work no matter what if the front spins?

 

[BILT4ME]

thanks. why would only the front drive shaft turn and not the rear? it seems like the rear would almost always work no matter what if the front spins?

If the truck is on flat ground and it is moving BOTH DS should turn.

Only the front one turning indicates you either have stripped drive flange or you have locking front hubs and they are in the unlocked position. If this is the case, you won;t go anywhere unless you lock the CDL.

If you have stripped drive flange (on the front wheel hub) then you should hear a ratcheting or grinding at that hub.

With the truck running, you can place the 4WD lever in the LOW position, shut off the truck, and remove the CDL fuse. Them start and shift back into HIGH and drive the truck using the rear DS, as the CDL will not unlock until the fuse is replaced.

The VC basically takes up the slack and clunk in the driveline and will transfer some power when it is installed, but you have to rock prety hard on the htrottle to make that happen. That will cook a VC quickly. Once the VC is removed, then the TC is an open differential and the end with the least resistance will spin. In this case the front end because something is amiss.

Even if your VC is still in place and you have drive flange stripped, you're not going anywhere unless the CDL is locked in.

 

[IdahoDoug]

R - instead of us guessing, why don't you fully explain the CONDITIONS under which the front drive shaft is spinning and the rear is not? THanks

 

[rfwj]

The car drove to the drive way so some drive shaft maybe both were engaged working? there has been a weird TC noise on highway after 10 plus miles. low wine. to see if it is front drive shaft issue. Disconnected the front drive shaft and the rear drive does not spin or move the truck so I assumed the front was working prior to disconnect and the rear is not. I still find it hard to believe this was a front wheel drive only post VC removal (b/c I messed up?) and the rear was not hooked working due to a TC issue. thanks for any other diagnosis ideas or tests. then I will try them and see what happens. sorry for the non mechanic observations.

 

[ppc]

With either drive shaft removed the center diff must be locked.

 

[rfwj]

thanks i read somewhere you could see if a noise was front drive line if the front drive shaft was unbolted from the TC and then run the truck. I guess to make the rear work, you need the cdl locked to make the rear spin and move with front un bolted?

 

[BILT4ME]

thanks i read somewhere you could see if a noise was front drive line if the front drive shaft was unbolted from the TC and then run the truck. I guess to make the rear work, you need the cdl locked to make the rear spin and move with front un bolted?

Yes. You must lock the CDL.

What you described in post #6 is a proper application, NOT what you described in post #1. Otherwise the TC is a DIFFERENTIAL between front and rear unless you lock the CDL. That's why it moves with BOTH DS installed.

But you must remove the ENTIRE DS, not just unbolt it from the TC.

Make damn sure you chock the wheels and/or set the parking brake before working under it because it WILL roll with one tire off the ground or one DS removed.