Valve Train Oil Flow (1 Viewer)

[Steamer]

How bout a pic from above of the whole head?
Those seals appear to be the umbrella type that simply cling to the valve stem and ride up and down with the valve. When installed they can be pushed all the way down but when the valves cycle one time, they get pushed up to where they will stay.

 

[FJ40Jim]

What is the part number on the head? Will be 5 digits, starting with 610xx or 600xx.

Those are OE style umbrella seals. Positive valve seals are a running upgrade in later 2F production.

 

[Boaf 32]

so they didnt send a rebuilt head?

F$%^& No. This is just stupid! I am Really annoyed. Fricken people. Calling them Monday. My God, don't people care anymore about customer service?

 

[brian]

yes, just not them.....the last thing they did to me, was lie to me over the phone.
fyi i had a head rebuilt a couple years ago locally....it cost me less than 300...because i can't recall the actual number....hot tanked, magna-fluxed, shaved 30 off it, and the valves in it...i supplied the valve seals cause i wanted the newer style.
recently had them dis-assemble, hot tank, magna-flux and check flatness on a 60series 2f head just to ensure i have a good back up plan for mine...that was less than 100 bucks.

 

[Boaf 32]

Brian, Where?

 

[brian]

around harrisburg

 

[Boaf 32]

Attached is a picture of my old head that

What is the part number on the head? Will be 5 digits, starting with 610xx or 600xx.

Those are OE style umbrella seals. Positive valve seals are a running upgrade in later 2F production.

Hi Brian, I pulled one valve of my old 2F head that Cruiser Parts.net sent back to me. What are the alternatives to these crappy rubber seals that float? It's hard to see what these seals from SOR look like. There needs to be something to keep these seal in place (or replaced).

SOR Seals

 

[brian]

yeap the later seals are plug&play.

Advance Auto Parts - Down for Maintenance

 

[1FastBimmer]

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[Boaf 32]

Thanks Brian!

 

[Boaf 32]

Finally have the right head. Installed, smooth as butter. But still no oil flow. So that confirms that the oil tube must not be connected. Any thoughts @brian? I am going to drive it 10 miles to my house and put it in the garage. I cannot lay on my back and change out a Oil pan gasket in a parking lot.

Boaf.

 

[brian]

i would dump a quart of oil across the valve train and drive it home.

 

[flee]

Finally have the right head. Installed, smooth as butter. But still no oil flow. So that confirms that the oil tube must not be connected. Any thoughts @brian? I am going to drive it 10 miles to my house and put it in the garage. I cannot lay on my back and change out a Oil pan gasket in a parking lot.

Boaf.

Just to make sure, how long did you run the engine to check the flow? It took at least a minute for oil to appear at the rockers when I started mine the first time.

 

[Boaf 32]

3 minute run. Drove it 10 miles to my house, removed valve cover, dry! s***, drove it for 100 miles before I realized somethig was not right. What's 10 more. But damn, it runs smooth.

Something from below must be wrong (oil feed tube leak or disconnect is my thought. Need to drop the pan and investigate. At least I finally have the right head installed.

Boaf

 

[Boaf 32]

3 minute run. Drove it 10 miles to my house, removed valve cover, dry! s***, drove it for 100 miles before I realized somethig was not right. What's 10 more. But damn, it runs smooth.

Something from below must be wrong (oil feed tube leak or disconnect is my thought. Need to drop the pan and investigate. At least I finally have the right head installed.

Boaf

So my theory, I replaced the head in the summer (with the incorrect head shipped to me from a vendor up north). Naturally, there was no where for the oil to go because no oil port in the head. The compression nut on the pipe may have got pissed off and disconnected, loose or something to that effect. We'll see. Ordering some replacement parts. It could just be clogged, but I am getting pressure to the bottom of my engine, even put a different gauge on the Oil pressure sending unit. Still open for ideas. Will send photos when the pan is removed. Argh, just changed the oil too.

Boaf

 

[Boaf 32]

Fellow LCer's,

Update. Removed the oil pan and found nothing out of the ordinary. Oil pipe was attached. See photos. Oil pipe is clear, as is the t fitting.

I tried to see if there was any obstructions in the oil hole that goes to the top of the motor using a coat hanger but do not get very far until I hit a bend, so futile effort there.

Any suggestions are appreciated to help diagnose. My thoughts are disconnect the oil pump, sit it in a pan of oil and turn it by hand to ensure oil is coming out of the oil pipe. Thoughts?

Thanks gents.

Boaf

 

[73FJ40]

@Boaf 32

Did you try pumping oil down the galley from above?

 

[Steamer]

Finally have the right head.

Does this mean you have the F.5 head to match your F.5 block?
And do you have the F.5 rocker assembly that has the oil hole in the #4 rocker pedestal?
And are you using an F.5 head gasket that has the keyhole that lets oil pass from the oil hole in the block over to the head bolt?

 

[Boaf 32]

Thanks Steamer. I think I am spot on. I have a head gasket picture above. Here it is again. I think you circled the correct Point on my head gasket. The valve train is set up to match the head with the oil pedestal. I can triple check and pull the valves. At this point, I am second guessing myself and don't like it.

Gonna try the oil pump as well. Really frustrating.

 

[Steamer]

Looks like the wrong gasket. There's no keyhole to let the oil pass from the oil outlet in the block over to the head bolt hole.