Valve Stem Seal Replacement (1 Viewer)

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All,

I know this has come up many times on this thread but I couldn't find much reference in the search about the Lisle 36050 tool specifically on the 1FZ. Has anyone used this tool to remove the valve keepers while the head is still on with compressed air?

Amazon product ASIN B0012S61IO
My FZJ100 only has 120k miles so I don't want to pull the head...
 
I was going to attempt this at one time, but given the amount of work just to get to the point you can replace the seals with the tool/air I figured might as well refresh the head. You're pulling the cams, etc so you're pretty deep into it already. There are some other issues I read about also, all which led me to believe this was not worth the attempt for the time invested into it.
 
I was going to attempt this at one time, but given the amount of work just to get to the point you can replace the seals with the tool/air I figured might as well refresh the head. You're pulling the cams, etc so you're pretty deep into it already. There are some other issues I read about also, all which led me to believe this was not worth the attempt for the time invested into it.

Time and work isn't a big deal... I just want to buy myself another 100,000 km before needing to pull the head.

What other issues would there be? All I can think of is if the old seal comes out in pieces and there are stem seal bits hanging out in the head...
 
agree with @LC4LIFE . Might as well just pull the head and PM the head gasket.

I have a white puff of smoke on start up, but my HG is fine so I'm ignoring it until either the HG goes or I gather enough parts to do the HG plus all the other "while your in there" stuff I'll feel compelled to do.
 
One thing to consider is if you'll have room to do all 4 valves on cylinder #6. Not sure if it's an issue but the stem angles may run this tool into the firewall even after you remove the heater control valve and hoses in that area.
 
One thing to consider is if you'll have room to do all 4 valves on cylinder #6. Not sure if it's an issue but the stem angles may run this tool into the firewall even after you remove the heater control valve and hoses in that area.

Good point... I'm doing this work on an FZJ100 and there's a lot of room at the back of the motor compared to the 80. Another reason I don't want to pull the head as the 2nd gen 1FZ with redesigned head seems to be less prone to HG failure, especially since it's non EGR.

If no one has used that particular tool I might chance it. Looks like people use it on 1JZ/2JZ...
 
So, as far as I can tell, only reason not to is "it's a lot of work". lol

For me, it’s not the amount of work, it’s the delta between partially doing it and then doing a full refresh. The amount of work is close enough I’d rather just refresh the entire head.
 

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