Valve Stem Seal repair cost? (1 Viewer)

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Feb 15, 2019
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I'm looking very seriously at picking up an FJ80. I had a pre purchase inspection done, and it turned up a puff of blue smoke when starting up after sitting a few hours, in addition to known oil burning/seeping. I'm trying to get fully informed about the implications. I don't hate the idea of doing a repair, and getting some PM at the same time, but here I'm mainly wondering about the cost of the individual problem itself.

From what I've read and been told by mechanics, this is probably leaky valve stem seal. I've seen that this work can be done when the head is off, or if the mechanic is skilled, using rope/air pressure with the head on. After a lot of scouring, I haven't been able to find a price range on this anywhere, probably because it seems a bit specialized.

Any feedback on this would be appreciated - how much should I expect to pay to fix this if I were to pick up this truck? Are there any other obvious issues that are probably contributing to the engine issue? Any other thoughts?

Thanks in advance.
 
I pulled the head two years ago. Had the valve stems replaced, valves ground, and the head decked for around $350 at an old school shop. Not sure of actual cost because I feel like a got a screaming deal.
 
You mention FJ80.

Please detail more specifics about this, as there are different engines based on year and there is a difference between FJ80 and FZJ80 and we want to make sure you didn't post in error and we guide you the correct direction.

3FE or 1FZ-FE?
 
The best way to fix it is to simply add some extra oil as it gets low, kind of like my leaking steering box.
 
$300 for head rebuild sounds right for head decking, valve stem seals and valve grind.
 
I'm looking very seriously at picking up an FJ80. I had a pre purchase inspection done, and it turned up a puff of blue smoke when starting up after sitting a few hours, in addition to known oil burning/seeping. I'm trying to get fully informed about the implications. I don't hate the idea of doing a repair, and getting some PM at the same time, but here I'm mainly wondering about the cost of the individual problem itself.

From what I've read and been told by mechanics, this is probably leaky valve stem seal. I've seen that this work can be done when the head is off, or if the mechanic is skilled, using rope/air pressure with the head on. After a lot of scouring, I haven't been able to find a price range on this anywhere, probably because it seems a bit specialized.

Any feedback on this would be appreciated - how much should I expect to pay to fix this if I were to pick up this truck? Are there any other obvious issues that are probably contributing to the engine issue? Any other thoughts?

Thanks in advance.

My 80 does the same thing and I think its the valve stem seals. Im going to see what I can do to "fix it" by using thicker oil, (10w-40 currently) and try to swell those seals by using high mileage oil, Marvel Mystery oil, and other types of oil treatment products. Its already helped some. Cant hurt.:meh: At least until I have the head done.
 
As I am in the middle of the head repair I have a fairly accurate idea of costs. This is what I am seeing locally in PA and this is just for the head work. The local NAPA machine shop that has done work for a few other MUD members and was recommended by my inspection mechanic quoted me $300 for valve seals, cleaning, decking and pressure testing the head. That figure climbed to $650-700 for him to set the cams and check to make sure the valve clearances were all in spec as well.

IMO, the issue is this ... to get the head off is serious labor hours. Then, since it's kind of a PITA project you don't want to repeat, you should knock out as many things in the engine as you can while you have access - PHH, coolant line next to PHH, all new vacuum lines, all new gaskets and seals, deal with the steering pump while everything is out of the way - that kind of stuff.

@beno sells a kit of all the gaskets and seals to do the head gasket and all related items. It's a bunch of work, but between the forum and YouTube it's doable with good tools and an occasional helper and it will save you a ton of cash in labor. If I get this truck back together properly, it should be rock solid for another 220k miles and that is the real win.

I have three 80s, all 1FZ-FE engines and they all need the valve seals done. I've cheated for years and thousands of miles running higher weight and feeding them oil regularly. My LX450 is now at the point that the oil pressure is so consistently low it scares me. It rests and close to 0 at lights and almost never rises above 1/4 on the gauge. Eventually it will make you fix it, or at least this is my experience.
 
The oil pressure gauge is about as useless as the water temp gauge. They vary widely between vehicle and give you no actual value.
 
$300-600 for the headwork at the machine shop depending on what is needed and what their shop rate is. Around $600 for headgasket and related parts if done at home--this can go up to $1000 or so depending on how much of a "while you're in there" type of guy you are.
 
CA prices, as of last month.

Reputable cruiser shop to do head work & gasket, $3-3.5k.

I went the do it myself route.

Head gasket kit from Beno. Don’t remember price because I bought a bunch of other stuff too.
Cometic HG: $220.
ARP head studs: $150-200 ish.
Machine shop to pressure test, mill head surface, grind valve seats, replace stem seals: $700. But I only paid $475. 😉

One day to tear down, 3 days to put back together.
 
If you’re still living in SD, maybe switch to thicker viscosity oil as a band-aid.

If you’re using the costs quoted here as a bargaining chip, I’d bet you’re going to see a good ~$800 bill between parts (<$75), labor ($$$), and tax & whatever else they tack on the bottom of a bill.
That’s leaving the head installed, not doing any other ‘that should get swapped’ -stuff.

If you’re buying to own longterm, it would be good to know if it’s still on the OE HG - by the time you pop the cams out you are 2/3 the way to a HG job. And at that point I’d want a 1st rate shop doing the labor.

So it’s a Pandora’s box & why alot of guys just add oil.
 
The oil pressure gauge is about as useless as the water temp gauge. They vary widely between vehicle and give you no actual value.

I agree, but I bought this 80 in 1999 and have been driving it since then. The pressure has dropped over the years as the smell of oil burning and a bit of white smoke on startup increased. I daily drove this truck HARD for many years. It's just a little tired now and needs a refresh and some new paint.

The LX450 has been amazing to own. It's got 272k on it now and still on the OG head gasket and PHH. Only major repairs ever required were birf's around 200k and a new starter ~10 years ago.
 
Just leaving it and adding oil is a bad idea in my opinion. Sending oil through the exhaust kills the catalytic converter. In addition, by removing the head and getting all the work done, you save yourself from randomly popping the headgasket away from home and having to tow it to some unknown shop to rush to get it fixed because your stranded.
 
I agree, but I bought this 80 in 1999 and have been driving it since then. The pressure has dropped over the years as the smell of oil burning and a bit of white smoke on startup increased. I daily drove this truck HARD for many years. It's just a little tired now and needs a refresh and some new paint.

The LX450 has been amazing to own. It's got 272k on it now and still on the OG head gasket and PHH. Only major repairs ever required were birf's around 200k and a new starter ~10 years ago.

Just do a full overhaul of the engine including refreshing the cooling system. Then you can drive it for another 20 years and 250000 miles with no worries.
 
Just do a full overhaul of the engine including refreshing the cooling system. Then you can drive it for another 20 years and 250000 miles with no worries.

That is the plan. Finish head gasket on Cammo wheeling truck, then front axle rebuild on white truck followed by the LX450 being down for an extended period to have everything redone.
 

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