Valve shim results

Discussion in '80-Series Tech' started by landtank, Jul 1, 2005.

  1. landtank

    landtank SILVER Star

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    A few weeks ago I re-shimmed my valves. After guaging the lash I found that 4 valves were near the middle of the acceptable range while the other 20 were at the loose limit of the range, and maybe a few were over.

    So I decided to re-shim all 20 which ment I had to basically add .002" to each shim. I moved a couple around and then placed an order with Dan for the other 18.

    Immediately I noticed the truck turned over faster and started quicker. The turning over faster pretty much ruined my weekend as we went camping up in VT and I felt I had done something wrong and a loss of compression was the reason for the faster turning over.

    Upon returning home I pulled the valve cover off and rechecked my valve lash. They were all right in the middle of the range, whew.

    Other things I've noticed is a lower startup idle, no startup rattle at all and the elimination of some slight pinging I had,

    I did also do the 180k tuneup so it's probably not all the valve lash.

    I realise that the .002" will increase the lift and duration, but I'm having an issue thinking it's doing it all.

    I've driven close to 1700 miles sisnce this and the truck is running great. If you haven't check this and put it off as I have you might take a little time out and check your's.
     
  2. MLX450

    MLX450

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    Need some info on the shim. Does that mean a shim over the pucks? or new pucks? or is that something totally different? Kinda still a newbie. Stealership wanted alot of $$$ for adjusting the valves and more $$$$ if the pucks need to be replaced. I've noticed a little valve tapping and an adjustment is probable due.
     
  3. John E Davies

    John E Davies

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    I'm glad to read about someone who has seen his clearances open up - it seems as if the consensus about valve lash in this forum is the exact opposite.

    The valves in my 96 LX450 were all quite loose and clattery at 87K miles (with a few out of tolerance by 0.001 inch) when I rebuilt the head due to HG failure. I set them up at the tight end of the tolerances and have been happy with the results. I rechecked just to be safe after 18K miles and the TOTAL clearance had increased 0.006 inches for all 24 valves combined. I think that is acually close to the margin of error for using a feeler gage. I didn't see a single valve that had tightened in 18K miles.

    I plan to let the valves go until 150K before I recheck them.

    I feel vindicated by your post.

    John Davies
    Spokane WA
     
  4. Rusty Phillips

    Rusty Phillips

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    is there a writeup on this (with pictures) so that the average neanderthal such as myself can make a determination if it is something that I am inclined to mess up and that I really should take it to the stealership to get it done or maybe can do it myself?

    if anyone wants to come to my house and tear into my truck id be glad to take the pictures

    Rusty
     
  5. John E Davies

    John E Davies

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    There are tons of posts on this subject.

    The shims rest in recesses on top of the "lifters", under the cam lobes. You either use a special Toyota tool and/ or remove the cams to get the shims out. The rear-most shims are the troublemakers which require cam removal. You use a small screwdriver to pop the shim loose from the oil stiction and gently lever it out. You can swap shims from valve to valve or install new ones. My local stealer wanted about $11 each for shims, so it is definitely best to reuse when possible.

    John Davies
    Spokane WA
     
  6. MLX450

    MLX450

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    Jim - Next DVD? VALVES? lol
     
  7. elmariachi

    elmariachi

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    Tonto no have valve experience on 80 yet...only on MerCruiser 572.
     
  8. MLX450

    MLX450

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    Ahhhhh Si senior. Si.
     
  9. landtank

    landtank SILVER Star

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    Well if you have ignored them for as long as I did you will probably have similar results as far as what the valve lash is. I just pulled the cams as there were so many which did include the #6 cylinder that needed to be done that I'm not going to spend any money on a specialty tool.

    This is pretty straight forward and I can't imagine needing a DVD of the process. There is only a few steps involved, they are just repeated for each valve.
     
  10. e9999

    e9999 You want to do what...? Moderator

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    how big of a job is it to check them? hours? :banana: ?
     
  11. landtank

    landtank SILVER Star

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    32 minutes. Before starting you will want a valve cover gasket and TB gasket on hand.

    1. remove intake tube from TB to Filter housing

    2. Disconnect TB from intake and set aside.

    3. remove top covers from valve cover and remove spark plug wires.

    3a. remove EGR modulator and braket

    4. remove valve cover.

    5. rotate crank to TDC compression #1

    6. Check gaps on (will have to look up which ones)

    7. rotate crank 1 turn to TDC mark

    8. Check gaps on (will have to look up which ones)

    That's it. If everything is ok then reinstall and be on your way.


    note: most common feeler sets for valves (bent for ease of use) will only go
    down to .008", the minimum spec for the intake is .006".

    edit: added 3a and adjusted time accordingly :flipoff2:
     
    Last edited: Jul 2, 2005
  12. RavenTai

    RavenTai

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    I checked mine last summer, they were all on the high side with one 0.001" over, I have been putting off going in there and re-shimming them, but it needs to be done, I have since acquired a spare head so I have a full set of spare shims to work with.

    since they seam to grow over time it may be ok to go a little less than the middle of the range but be aware that if the clearance goes below 0.0" the valve will not seat not only causing a loss of compression but the valve will not be able to cool itself against the seat and will burn.

    the Mac feeler gage set # FG275 I used goes down to 0.005" worked good for this use.


    I guess it could be done in 30 min if you stayed focused but if you are easily distracted by tangents like I am ( such as unexplained false lobes and oil holes in the cam) budget a few hours for it.
     
  13. e9999

    e9999 You want to do what...? Moderator

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    30 mins?
    man, you're fast...! would take me longer than that to just remove the plugs...
     
  14. landtank

    landtank SILVER Star

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    That was the second time around. The first time was like an hour and a half as I had no idea where some of the tools were.
     
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