valve cover treatment (1 Viewer)

[myquestoyota]

I've read several threads regarding painting or polishing 2F valve covers and now I need some advice. Polish or paint? AND, how to best polish or paint? I like the looks of the one in the thread where he used this paint and I'm wondering how it holds up. Powder coat? Anyone done that?
Thanks in advance.
Mike

 

[Devilmans Hand]

aluminum is a bit of a pain to polish. you have to take your time and keep the metal cool.

I've used felt wheels and layered cotton flap wheels on aluminum.

Paint would be easier and take far less time.

 

[SteveH]

I had a shop polish mine - well worth the $40, since mine had some casting flaws, etc. He suggested I not clearcoat it (esp. here in Colo - not much humidity) since the clearcoat would turn yellow and make it hard to repolish. The cover looked really sharp - like chrome, but less tacky looking.

 

[myquestoyota]

What kind of shop does that kind of stuff? Paint shop or machine shop or???

 

[SliderJack]

I polished mine. I like polished over painted or chrome pieces. It is labor intensive to do a good job. But I'd do it for you for $40 or $50. Probably around minimum wage but I'd like to do something to earn some extra money so I can finish my project.

before:

after:

 

[Lake Rat]

^That looks pretty sweet. I've been contemplating doing the same to mine. Now that I have seen yours, I may just do it.

 

[myquestoyota]

I like that, great job. If it didn't cost me $20 each way to ship it to you I'd be all over your offer. I have a valve cover coming from Colorado, heck, I'd have had him ship it to you first. Still may take you up on it. What process did you use to achieve those fantastic results? I also prefer polish over paint.

 

[SliderJack]

Thanks! Zip code is 53153 if you want to check on shipping.

I made sure the part was very clean before starting, degreased. Then sanding with a variety of materials, grit, and wet. Then working through a variety of polishing compounds.

 

[hellbent40]

i just put a new valve cover gasket and cleaned up the cover with a wire wheel and it looks like the first pic of SliderJack....

But wow i would love to know what you use to get it to polish up that good... thats awesome... dont tell me that you use WD-40 and a air polisher... heard that works really well on aluminum..

again great werk man...

 

[KKell]

Wow that looks awesome, i would love to do that to mine, so where can i get that done, machine shop or...?

 

[bikersmurf]

i just put a new valve cover gasket and cleaned up the cover with a wire wheel and it looks like the first pic of SliderJack....

But wow i would love to know what you use to get it to polish up that good... thats awesome... dont tell me that you use WD-40 and a air polisher... heard that works really well on aluminum..

again great werk man...

Check out "Mirror Immage Metal polishing" (here in Victoria) if you want yours to look like that, Hellbent. Richard there will take good care of you. I've seen them do some amazing work.

"Autosol" also works well with a die grinder and a small buffing wheel.

 

[bikersmurf]

Wow that looks awesome, i would love to do that to mine, so where can i get that done, machine shop or...?

Chrome plating shop or metal polishing shop.

I've known Richard for about 20 years... He'll take care of you.

PM me for contact info, if you ever get over here to the island.

 

[bikersmurf]

I had a shop polish mine - well worth the $40, since mine had some casting flaws, etc. He suggested I not clearcoat it (esp. here in Colo - not much humidity) since the clearcoat would turn yellow and make it hard to repolish. The cover looked really sharp - like chrome, but less tacky looking.

If you need to strip clear coat off aluminum parts, paint stripper works really well. I polished up the side covers on my old Yamaha and sold the bike for more than it was bought for, even though it had almost 30,000 more miles on it.

Autosol, die grinder, and a buffing wheel.

 

[DougAustinTx]

There is a clearcoat called NYALIC that was supposedly used on the space shuttle. It sprays on really thin and sticks to smooth metal surfaces. Impervious to most chemicals. I use it to coat my shiny aluminum pieces, and also as a protective coat on paint that I want to protect, like on a master cylinder. Get it straight from the manufacturer.

 

[Cleg]

Some comments on spray paint

I have never been happy with the quality of Duplicolor paint but have not used the 500 degree engine paint.
Here are some unsolicited reviews that may same someone some time & money.

Duplicolor: low quality paint. Poor lay down & poor durability.

Krylon: Was decent paint in the '80s but has changed. The durability and ability to seal against moisture is terrible. Garbage paint.

Rustoleum: Professional: (Lowes). Primers & paints. This stuff is great. Lays down a good finish, dries fast and yields a tough high quality surface. Black is available in high coverage spray cans (different nozzle) that lays down more paint in a wide spray path for painting big stuff without the telltale rattle can lines. The Professional is only available in a limited choice of colors.

Rustoleum Universal All Surface: (Lowes). Great paint. sticky as all get out, like spraying glue and stays tacky for over a day but, as advertised, it sticks to anything, even polypropylene. The final finish is hard, glassy & durable. You do however need a good rust resistant primer under it regardless of what it says on the can. We sprayed steel wheels without primer and the rust bled through in 2 weeks.
Sprayed polypro body trim 3 years ago and it has doe fine out in the weather. No peeling, looks like a molded part.

SEM Color Coat Flexible Coating: (NAPA & auto body supply).
Paint for flexible items. Pretty amazing stuff. I painted a waterproof fabric motorcycle bag with it and it looked great. It is more like a dye than a paint and should even work on vinyl seats. I will use it on my dash pads.

Valspar Tractor & Implement Enamel: (Sold at Tractor Supply, Inc.) Terrific paint available in spray cans & bulk in quarts & gallons, all pre-mixed in standard tractor colors. Recently purchased by Valspar so I hope they don't change the formula. It sprays on like automotive acrylic enamel. The downside is it takes a long time, weeks to achieve full hardness. They also sell a hardener for use in spraying with a gun. If they had the color I want, I'd paint the body with it.

I'll try the NYALIC clear, sounds like good stuff.

 

[Folkert]

I had great results with VHT engine enamel when restoring my classic Honda motorcycle engines (was exact match with the OEM engine color). The paint hold up nicely on casings and cilinder/cilinder head, and I can tell you, those got hot... no discoloring or chipping whatsoever. well known in the restoring/automotive scene.

I think I'm going to use that stuff again for my BJ44 Diesel valve cover.

here's their website: VHT

 

[Storm Ranch]

I polished mine. I like polished over painted or chrome pieces. It is labor intensive to do a good job. But I'd do it for you for $40 or $50. Probably around minimum wage but I'd like to do something to earn some extra money so I can finish my project.

before:

after:

Holy Crap. I want this. Don't have the eyes or patience to do it myself. Where to get it done?

 

[JackA]

I had my 2F valve cover polished too. Looked fantastic and stayed that way for years.

In Phoenix, I used Fernando's polishing. Look for a local plating shop or chrome shop.

 

[bikersmurf]

‘Autosol’ and a buffing wheel on a die grinder works wonders. If there’s any clear coat on it, use aircraft paint stripper first.