Putting on a new valve cover gasket on my new to me 94 cruiser. Ran into a potential issue with the removal of the half moon head cutouts. I was delicate with their removal, however, upon inspection noticed the driver's side half moon was missing sections of the inside lip. Used a section of tshirt to not mar it. Did not hear a tink or anything upon removal. No debris in the the little pocket under the distributor shaft. This still has me pretty worried. Any thought or guidance? Thanks in advance!
Valve cover job potential issue
- Thread starter Archy
- Start date
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Can you tell if the vehicle has been serviced before?
Those 'scars' look old to me and I'd wager someone used a screwdriver to try to pry/drive the plugs out in the past.
If the engine turns over freely.....I wouldn't worry about it. There isn't anything between the timing chain and gear. Any debris is in the bottom of the oil pan by now and will stay there as long as you keep the vehicle right side up.
I'd replace that plug though (just me).
Those 'scars' look old to me and I'd wager someone used a screwdriver to try to pry/drive the plugs out in the past.
If the engine turns over freely.....I wouldn't worry about it. There isn't anything between the timing chain and gear. Any debris is in the bottom of the oil pan by now and will stay there as long as you keep the vehicle right side up.
I'd replace that plug though (just me).
Toyota (11183-50010)
- Thread starter
- #3
Awesome, thanks for the piece of mind! Vehicle ran great, but has been down for a few weeks as I baseline it. Hitting up the oil pump gasket next weekend so will at least keep an eye out for any pieces.Can you tell if the vehicle has been serviced before?
Those 'scars' look old to me and I'd wager someone used a screwdriver to try to pry/drive the plugs out in the past.
If the engine turns over freely.....I wouldn't worry about it. There isn't anything between the timing chain and gear. Any debris is in the bottom of the oil pan by now and will stay there as long as you keep the vehicle right side up.
I'd replace that plug though (just me).
Toyota (11183-50010)
Definitely looks like someone has been in the top of the head before. Noticed some weird marks that looked like someone rotated the cams but the grip marks are the wrong way.
Also, thanks for the part number. Ordered!
Doing the spark plug tube seals at the same time?
Replacing the PCV valve and rubber grommet?
Cleaning the sludge out of the valve cover oil baffle?
New TB gasket?
Replacing the Heat Control Valve and water heater hoses while you're in there?
Wrapping the main engine harness near the EGR pipe?
Cleaning the Throttle Body with special attention to all the vacuum ports?
New PCV and Breather hoses?
New Vacuum hoses?
New fuel vapor return hose?
Clean/Function check EGR valve and Vacuum Modulator??
Replacing Spark plugs?
Repairing deteriorated rubber covering of the three cables to the Throttle body while it's apart?
etc,
etc,
etc
Replacing the PCV valve and rubber grommet?
Cleaning the sludge out of the valve cover oil baffle?
New TB gasket?
Replacing the Heat Control Valve and water heater hoses while you're in there?
Wrapping the main engine harness near the EGR pipe?
Cleaning the Throttle Body with special attention to all the vacuum ports?
New PCV and Breather hoses?
New Vacuum hoses?
New fuel vapor return hose?
Clean/Function check EGR valve and Vacuum Modulator??
Replacing Spark plugs?
Repairing deteriorated rubber covering of the three cables to the Throttle body while it's apart?
etc,
etc,
etc
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- Thread starter
- #5
Yes to all except main engine harness wrap, pcv, and egr! I will research and add to list. Thanks!
- Thread starter
- #7
Yup, agreed. Rebuilt the starter and replaced the phh thanks to phhkit.com! Thanks! Old phh was bloated and ready to blow (wife just looked at me funny)!
The "while you're in there" list should always include replacement of:-muffler bearings
-thing a ma jig
-knuter valve
-whatca ma callit
-upper and lower dingle arm bushings
Note: Use OEM replacement parts only!
The list is endless; ask me how I know
-muffler bearings
-thing a ma jig
-knuter valve
-whatca ma callit
-upper and lower dingle arm bushings
Note: Use OEM replacement parts only!
The list is endless; ask me how I know
^^^^^
Surprisingly, I found mine was still good @ 316K miles (OEM Koyo might be the reason). And FWIW, there is only one on our Land Cruisers (U.S. market).
- Thread starter
- #10
^^^^^
Surprisingly, I found mine was still good @ 316K miles (OEM Koyo might be the reason). And FWIW, there is only one on our Land Cruisers (U.S. market).
View attachment 3276848
. Yeah, I have learned so much about these vehicles lurking for the last few months. Amazing vehicle and community!As a quick update, I have stared into the timing chain housing for what feels like hours. Flashlight and mirrors have revealed no slivers of metal. Current plan is to take a break till next weekend, then pull the oil pump cover. I will then flush some oil down the timing chain housing and sift the oil coming out of the cover. Fingers crossed. I will then drain the oil pan, once again sifting. Worse case, may pull the oil pan as it is leaking as well. If anyone has a better approach, please let me know!
Thanks everyone!
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I’m knee deep in a reseal and all new hoses project on my 96 LX.
Has anyone here replaced the EGR valve with an aftermarket? The toyota unit looks like about $220 vs aftermarket at about $100-120.
Has anyone here replaced the EGR valve with an aftermarket? The toyota unit looks like about $220 vs aftermarket at about $100-120.
- Thread starter
- #13
The chain housing I am referring to is where the timing chain comes up through the head. As part of baselining, I had already planned on removing the oil pump cover to replace the gasket. Thanks!
Next time you need to remove those half moons, a hammer and a punch have them out in a millisecond.
Punch downward 3/8" in from one edge so the half moon rotates.
Silicone/RTV/FIPG is slippery, they rotate out easy peasy
Inspect the groove in the rocker cover where the rubber gasket sits and clean every scrap of old silicone out of the groove.
I reckon it only takes a small seal of old silicone in the way to prevent the rubber getting a decent seal.
Punch downward 3/8" in from one edge so the half moon rotates.
Silicone/RTV/FIPG is slippery, they rotate out easy peasy
Inspect the groove in the rocker cover where the rubber gasket sits and clean every scrap of old silicone out of the groove.
I reckon it only takes a small seal of old silicone in the way to prevent the rubber getting a decent seal.
The marks on that cam are just rough machining marks from the factory. Looks like there was a ridge of casting metal thats been roughly turned down
- Thread starter
- #16
Thanks! I will keep the half moon trick in mind for next time!
Out of curiosity, why doesn't the baked on oil stick to the machining marks?
Is it not? It all looks toasty brown in the pic, but hard to tell.
I can't comprehend someone leaving marks like that by rotating the cam. It doesn't take a huge effort to rotate them.
Is it not? It all looks toasty brown in the pic, but hard to tell.
I can't comprehend someone leaving marks like that by rotating the cam. It doesn't take a huge effort to rotate them.
Looks like the marks from a hand held grinder, most likely done to remove a casting line or abnormal build up of material at the point of manufacture.
The marks are in the wrong direction to have been left behind by the teeth of any type of gripping tool (pipe wrench, adjustable pliers, vise grip, etc).
- Thread starter
- #19
Agreed, I got excited briefly thinking that maybe someone had replaced the head gasket. Then really looked at the marks and determined the same thing you did, wrong direction. Thanks!
- Thread starter
- #20
Ok, second guessing my approach... Am I ok draining the oil and pouring all of it right back down the timing chain channel to flush it? It looks to me that I should be ok, but would like a second opinion! Thanks!