Valve cover gasket replacement in FAQ? (2 Viewers)

iptman

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I search for a valve cover gasket DIY/FAQ thread but couldn't find one. Is my searchfoo not working or does one not exist? I've done the front axle service but wires and vacuum hoses scare me so I'm not looking forward to replacing this gaskets. I got a lot of oil seep from both the front and and rear of the valve cover gasket.

Thanks.
 
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check for loose bolts first if you haven't done so already. Be very careful though, they will snap if you over tighten them. I dont' recall the torque spec, but IIRC it's in inch pounds not ft pounds.

Mark the position of the throttle cable in the bracket and the throttle position cable with some electrical tape so you put them back in the same position in the clamp.

The valve cover gasket replacement is easy. If you haven't done so already, get some oem plug wires and replace them while your at it. Clean out the throttle body also. another thing be mindful not to overflex the air intake hose, they become brittle after aging. REplace that while your at it if you have the $.
 

ST8ROCKS

Kevin
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Just did mine on the 3FE last weekend. It was simple as pie.

Few tips:
1. lots of carb clean- mine had 210k so that stuff had turned into coal
2. vacuum lines should not scare you, just keep track or mark them with a paint pen. Replace them if they are stiff.
3. replace the PCV
4. the 3FE has four bolts to get the cover off and they all have gaskets on them that should be replaced(dont know if its the same for the 1FZ)
4.5 I actually found that my oil filler cap was leaking as well might be a good thing to replace while you are there. ($10 from Dan the man)
5. If you are going to clean the TB take it off completely. At first I cleaned mine with it still on the motor a little piece of carbon ended up keeping it open and making me idle 2.5k. Ended up taking it off completely and cleaning it. What a difference!

Happy wrenching!
 
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I did mine last month. The FIPG/RTV is used on the baffle to cover. I was wondering the same thing. The seals were kind of hard to get out since they were brittle. I tapped then out from the top and broke the lips on them because they were brittle. I ended up using a dremel with a burr tip to cut into them to remove them. I used some hard plastic/derlon dowels i had. I think a good 1" wood dowel would work to tap the seals in. Not DRIVE then. Make sure to remember to which direction they are installed.

Heres a few tip on the procedure that helped me. Not in any particular order. These are some things i experienced and thing that helped me from other threads i read.

1. Throttle body can be removed with all three cables attached. Use tape wrapped around the threaded portion to mark position, just in case.

2. Replace the two hoses on the on the heater valve, It helps to remove these to aid in the removal of the valve cover. You will most likely have to cut these off. The hose is 5/8. Do not reinstall the hoses till your done comepletly, since they were a pain in the ass to remove and wiggle around once its around the metal tubes.

3.Unclip the plastic harness above the heater valve and remove the 2 10mm bolts. Gives more room for VC removal.

4. Get some seafoam/deep creep. Helps in cleaning the TB and VC.

5. Swivels/Wobbles for the 10mm VC bolts in the back.

6. The hardest thing for me was the **** little coolant hose toward the back of the TB.
I had a hard time reinstalling the pressure clamp. Possibly because i didnt remove the 3TB cables.

7. Vaseline or FIPG in small amounts helpd keep the VC gasket in place when you reinstall it.

8. You do not need to order new half moons or remove them from the head.

9. Hight temp silver BBQ paint to paint valve cover. Had some laying around from a intake i did. Also did my manifold heat shields. Actually makes the compartment look cleaner.
 
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8. You do not need to order new half moons or remove them from the head.
highly recommend the simple removal of half moons and fipg. a leak here means reopening everything

also don't forget the spark plug gromments
IMG_3109.jpg
 

iptman

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What's the interval for changing out the plug wires? My truck only has 108k miles and the plugs were changed out at 60k miles with OEM by the previous owner. I don't think she's running rough so not sure how to know when to replace them.

Also, what's the deal with the VC bolts backing out? Has that proven to an issue for a lot of people?
 

redeye

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My rear VC bolts were hand loose. Actually I haven't yet had the chance to tighten all of them, only the ones I could reach w/o removing TB. But, yes, hand loose with 131K on the ODO at the time. Kinda weird IMO.
 

iptman

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Well loose valve cover bolts strike again. The back 3 bolts on the PS were all finger loose. I don't have a swivel so I can't get to the back DS bolt but it looks like there's oil around it so I'm assuming it's loose too. None of the bolts on the front side of the valve cover were loose, however. I wonder why it seems to only be the back bolts. Also, what's the deal with this in general? Has anyone postulated why this is so common?
 
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Dec 10, 2007
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Maybe clean the threaded holes and threads of the bolts with brake cleaner before installation, then use a thread locker before you tighten the bolts down??

Saw that Permatex and Loctite both offer oil resistant medium strength (blue) Threadlockers but they're hard to find.

http://www.midwayautosupply.com/showproduct.aspx?productid=12027&affiliateid=10050

http://tds.loctite.com/tds5/docs/243 NEW-EN.PDF

http://www.permatex.com/documents/tds/Automotive/24027.pdf

Found this flowchart on Permatex's website:

http://www.permatex.com/documents/ThreadlockerSelector.pdf
 
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Well loose valve cover bolts strike again. The back 3 bolts on the PS were all finger loose. I don't have a swivel so I can't get to the back DS bolt but it looks like there's oil around it so I'm assuming it's loose too. None of the bolts on the front side of the valve cover were loose, however. I wonder why it seems to only be the back bolts. Also, what's the deal with this in general? Has anyone postulated why this is so common?
It's the nature of the beast. I purchase a poplular mechanics turn the handle type ratchet to get mine snugged back up. Just tighten them back down. I didn't replace the vc gasket after the front started seeping.

I saw the 3/8" drive ratchet at Wal Mart and thought it would be handy. It paid for itself already. It's not knuckle buster cheap either.
 
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Oct 28, 2004
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Well loose valve cover bolts strike again. The back 3 bolts on the PS were all finger loose. I don't have a swivel so I can't get to the back DS bolt but it looks like there's oil around it so I'm assuming it's loose too. None of the bolts on the front side of the valve cover were loose, however. I wonder why it seems to only be the back bolts. Also, what's the deal with this in general? Has anyone postulated why this is so common?
The valve cover gasket shrinks as it ages. Creating the illusion of bolts that seem to loosen on their own.
 

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