Valve Adjustment (1 Viewer)

[Green Bean]

I refuse to adjust valves again.

Just because your last valve adjustment led to a complete frame-off and a move across the country is no reason to swear them off.

 

[MatthewMcD]

I have a hand crank, but it interferes with something under the bib…I’ve read that’s the easiest way to roll the engine for a valve adjustment….i need to play around with it and see what is iterfering with shoving into the balancer…..

Has any mudder that's a welder fashioned a rachet mountable tip that can interface with the teeth on the balancer? Seems like an easy welding job.

 

[gvxclassics]

Ok….I pull the spark plugs first….then put her in 3rd gear and push her forward to line up the flywheel BB with the pointer and #1 at the distributor….then I adjust valves 1, 2, 3, 5, 7 and 9. Then push the old girl back to line up #6 at the distributor and go after valves 4, 6, 8, 10, 11 and 12. Valves are numbered front to back…and you only have to roll the rig around twice….
I’ve used this method for years….however, reading the old F Factory Service Manual, it stated adjust at 500 RPM…e.g. engine running.

So I thought I’d ask ad see what you all were doing…

Ok- What do you use for clearance on an F engine (1974) )0 .008" and 0.014"?

 

[Pighead]

Ok- What do you use for clearance on an F engine (1974) )0 .008" and 0.014"?

Yes. You found the FAQs then?

 

[Pighead]

I like the handcrank because:
A) I always have one in my rig. It also works to start it when necessary.
2) I'm working on gravel, not concrete. It's not easy to push around.
III) The "Memorized Handle Position". I know when the engine is coming up on TDC by where the handle is, half the time anyway. If I'm only doing one rotation I know when to slow down and watch the window. And I don't have to pull the plugs.

 

[Mark Jennings]

Ok- What do you use for clearance on an F engine (1974) )0 .008" and 0.014"?

For 74, I do believe the clearances are .008 and .014….and that’s what I set my 68 to. Older F engines with Siamese heads I think are like .010 and .014.

 

[brian]

Has any mudder that's a welder fashioned a rachet mountable tip that can interface with the teeth on the balancer? Seems like an easy welding job.

its easier to just bump the bumper with it in gear.....only takes a few hip checks to make one revolution and 12-14" of real estate.

 

[gvxclassics]

Another way to turn over the motor when doing valve adjustment, if you happen to have your radiator out, and plugs out. Use a screw driver to turn the motor, easy. I added a timing marker on the crank/timing cover to help find the one hiding behind the little door.

 

[RevISK]

A well respected member here has a son who is a Certified Toyota Master Mechanic. His son says doing them cold with a go/no go gauge is what the "official" protocol is. That's how I do my 62 as it's impossible to keep it warm while getting all the crap out of the way.
Last time I did the 40 I did it hot and off with the bump method (couldn't find my crank). Next time I'll probably do the "official" method.

 

[zerotreedelta]

Has any mudder that's a welder fashioned a rachet mountable tip that can interface with the teeth on the balancer? Seems like an easy welding job.

Yeah, it's pretty simple. I made one from an extension that was basically the crossbar/tee of the hand crank for the ears to grab. Upside is it's easy to get through the bib, but the downside is it's only usable in the forward direction.

 

[mattressking]

A well respected member here has a son who is a Certified Toyota Master Mechanic. His son says doing them cold with a go/no go gauge is what the "official" protocol is. That's how I do my 62 as it's impossible to keep it warm while getting all the crap out of the way.
Last time I did the 40 I did it hot and off with the bump method (couldn't find my crank). Next time I'll probably do the "official" method.

This sounds like McGuire haha.

That said - the FSM says hot....the most reliable/easy way is set it cold to spec, drive it to operating temp, check each with it running, adjust as needed.

Overthinking this is a bit excessive, like choosing the best oil. You'll hear when they are loose, quick adjust and keep moving.

This is a popular table, I've used both, it works the same either way. Engine will sound like a sewing machine once its done, no ticking.

 

[OlYellr]

I use this setup to turn my engine with a socket. (pict below)..

And - @Roastchestnuts posted his find on his thread for cold adjustment setting he found on mud.

Builds - Salt wagon My first fj40 (build) - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/salt-wagon-my-first-fj40-build.1297967/post-15507615

Edit : I see Nate posted while I was typing and looking for that chart.

 

[pb4ugo]

I doubt the factory set the valves when they were hot.

 

[zerotreedelta]

Not related to factory, but that got me curious as to if anything was deferred to the delivery inspection / quality control.

Dizzy/timing, lug nut torque, fluids...but nothing on valvetrain.

 

[MatthewMcD]

This sounds like McGuire haha.

That said - the FSM says hot....the most reliable/easy way is set it cold to spec, drive it to operating temp, check each with it running, adjust as needed.

Overthinking this is a bit excessive, like choosing the best oil. You'll hear when they are loose, quick adjust and keep moving.

This is a popular table, I've used both, it works the same either way. Engine will sound like a sewing machine once its done, no ticking.

View attachment 3675122

I am making a portable version of this chart. What are the "a", "b", "c", "d" columns?

 

[zerotreedelta]

I'm guessing it's the fastest way thru all of them with the least engine rotations - ie, the batches you can check together.

 

[MatthewMcD]

I'm guessing it's the fastest way thru all of them with the least engine rotations - ie, the batches you can check together.

I think that's the yellow and pink. You only need to turn it over once.

 

[mattressking]

Quite honestly I don’t recall the purpose of a/b/c/d.

Just spin the motor to tdc compression for cyl 1 then adjust first batch. Spin the engine again (one rotation) to cyl 6. Repeat adjustment for exhaust.

That’s all it is, quick and easy.

 

[roadstr6]

Plugs out. Cold engine. Spin engine with the alternator pulley nut. Set valves to cold specs. Replace plugs. Fire it up and let it warm up. Check again hot as a go-no-go scenario just to confirm everything's good. Re-adjust any outliers.

 

[MatthewMcD]

Thanks, I am removing those columns.