Value of frame-on rust fixing? (1 Viewer)

[FlowState]

General question for you guys:

I don't have free or even buddy-buddy access to a lift. I'm looking to pick up a Colorado 60, and I'm expecting rust. My plan is to do a wire wheel / POR or Rust Bullet treatment on the parts of the frame and tub I can access on jackstands.

My question is as to the effectiveness of that. If I'm missing out on major trouble spots by not pulling the tub off, it might just be better to wait and do it that way. I'm just trying to halt any oxidation as fast as I can.

~Eric

 

[chitown40]

Coat it with oil if you're worried about moisture causing it to rust further.

I'd pull the body off and fix it right if you're going to do it. With that said, I wouldn't worry about it too much. Most of the rust is superficial and won't hurt anything (if it's the same truck you posted up in another thread).

 

[brian]

that sounds like a bunch of wasted effort.

 

[cruiserpants]

Would have to respectfully disagree with the others.
Por-15 is a great choice - use it myself. It is very effective if used correctly - 3 step process.
Yes, wire-wheel first, to get loose rust and dirt off.

 

[forestdan7]

The inside of the frame rails is the real worry. Jack up the front end as high as you can and spray the inside out with high pressure water. Let it dry thoroughly, then coat the inside with some kind of oil. Cleaning and painting the outside of the frame will just make it look nice.

 

[haryv]

I guess there is no perment way to coat the inside of the frame with paint or por15.

I was also think of a long flexible rod with small chains attached on the last 6 inches of the flexible rod "like a stiff cable" that can be turned on and whip off any scale or rust inside the frame rail.

 

[TobyB]

Back in the rust belt, we'd save up a couple of oil changes, then jack the vehicle up
as far as safely possible, and spray the oil up'n under there as best we could.
Sometimes some kerosene helped thin it down to spray better.
Running it down the frame rails is good advice, too- anywhere water can collect.

Unless you're dipping it, the scale will actually soak up the oil and help create a barrier.

Some swore by a good tear up a dirt road afterwards to get it good and 'coated' but
that always seemed like gilding the lily...

Later, I discovered 'body cavity wax' (yes, wretched name) made by Waxoyl or Wurth or
3M (Rust Fighter was what I used) and sprayed it into '60's German cars. It's worked really
well to seal and reduce 'inside out' rusting.
It goes in like water, then eventually congeals to seal up surfaces and small cracks.
I'd think that'd be worth the effort- and now that you mention it, I'll get a couple of quarts for
mine, since it has a surprising amount of surface rust for a NW rig.
I think they drove it on the beach...

hth

t

 

[TobyB]

arr, forgot- the sprayer has a long tube to get into places like the frame...
then a head on it to spray in a 360 pattern perpendicular to the tube.

t

 

[FlowState]

Toby, that sounds like something interesting to look into. I think I may opt for that method, sounds relatively simple and effective. Thanks for the tip!

 

[cruiserpants]

Here is a product that many classic car owners use. Its called cavity wax by Noxudol click here
Haven't tried it myself, but many swear by it...

 

[FlowState]

And another player enters the game! Keep the suggestions coming. I'm debating some kind of stress test with these (fabbing a bare pocket of a rust-prone metal, applying, then forcing oxidation).

When I apply the solution I choose, I'll do a big writeup. I mean, the pocketbook's a little lean, so a full build-up thread isn't in the near future. Rust-proofing, however, very much is.

Cheers,
~Eric

 

[Zack1978]

I guess the only way to truly treat the inside of the frame rails is to have the frame galvinized...I realize that is not an option when the body is on the frame however.


Zack

 

[Heckraiser]

I think it couldn't hurt to tackle whatever you can reach with the body on. You can get to the insides of the rear section pretty well with the body still on, and that's probably the worst part (it is on my cruiser). It should slow things down and if some point down the road you have access to a lift, just give it another go.

 

[norsk]

I double coated my frame on the inside with the following product

Internal Frame Coating w/Spray Nozzle

I found sufficient holes in the frame to do the entire things. The area I could not entirely do was the pipe over the rear axle, the paint nozzle wasn't long enough to do that.

From what I could see, it coated things nicely inside. I think it is better than NOT doing something

doug t

 

[alaska60]

General question for you guys:

I don't have free or even buddy-buddy access to a lift. I'm looking to pick up a Colorado 60, and I'm expecting rust. My plan is to do a wire wheel / POR or Rust Bullet treatment on the parts of the frame and tub I can access on jackstands.

My question is as to the effectiveness of that. If I'm missing out on major trouble spots by not pulling the tub off, it might just be better to wait and do it that way. I'm just trying to halt any oxidation as fast as I can.

~Eric

It certainly wont hurt till you CAN get the tub and/or body off!

RUST NEVER SLEEPS!
(neil young circa: 1971)

 

[FlowState]

I think it couldn't hurt to tackle whatever you can reach with the body on. You can get to the insides of the rear section pretty well with the body still on, and that's probably the worst part (it is on my cruiser). It should slow things down and if some point down the road you have access to a lift, just give it another go.

Like I said above, I'll do a writeup and a video guide if I can figure out some good ways to get into the nooks and crannies. It's definitely the first thing I'm going to do (PO did a COMPLETE tune-up a week ago ).

 

[TobyB]

The 3M version I use comes from the body shop, and wasn't very expensive ($15 a quart or something like that)
last I got it.
The sprayer cost more- (50 or 60) but the wand's at least 4 feet long, and really could get almost anywhere
there was a 1/2" or bigger hole.

It's messy, though, so don't do it until you're pretty sure everything else is good under there.
It takes MONTHS to gell up.

The a-b comparo I did was on Jenn's 2002- I shot it into all the problem rusts spots, and especially
the trunk lid, which was pretty rusty to begin with.
A year or 2 later, I painted my car, and DIDN'T seal comparable damage to the trunk on it.

Within 2 years, it bubbled through.

10 years later, Jenn's car is still not showing any rust on the trunk, and you can put your hand through mine.

That was my experience with it...

t