Vacume???

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Feb 3, 2005
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So was reading a thread similar to this about a guy having trouble figuring out what vac lines go where so I thought I'd snap a few pics of my engine bay and see if anyone knew which were right and which were wrong also I have two fittings on the bottom of my intake that I can't identify it runs pretty good but could run better check out the pics at the link below and let me know what you think...

Thanks
Brandon

http://www.angelfire.com/extreme5/landcruiser/pics/index.album?i=1
 
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Oh and please let me know if you have trouble getting to my pictures.....Thanks!
 
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The two fittings on the bottom of your intake are for water "preheat" for the manifold in cold weather because you have a header. If it runs poorly in cold weather hook them in line with one of your heater hoses.

Everything else looks OK from what I can see.
 
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preheat huh...cool I wouldn't have though of that but it's a really good idea to help get the intake up to temp I may hook them up anyway to reduce choke time and increase fuel economy...
Thanks Pin_Head!
 
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North Bend, WA
Do you have a check valve between to brake booster and the intake manifold? The cruisr had the checkvalve at the booster fitting. The mini had the check valve inline (yours looks like a mini setup...I didn't see a check valve)
 
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no I don't think so and my brakes are kinda funny I'm pretty sure that it's a direct line from intake to the booster...is this bad?
 
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what does it look like???
pic?
 
Joined
Nov 15, 2002
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Tucson, Az.
Vacuum hook ups

Hi, the one thing I see besides the "no check valve", is that you have the vavuum advance on the distributor direct to the manifold, it should be to the capped, ported vacuum outlet on the carb, just behind where it's hooked up now. You don't want advance at idle, and thats what you've got with it set up that way!
HTH, Earl
 
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So if I switched this then basically I'd be retarding my timing at idle and therefore lowering my idle...currently I like my idle speed it's alittle fast but the truck starts on a dime and I like that....I guess I need to play with the timing...hmmm any sugesstions
 
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Macgyver5 said:
So if I switched this then basically I'd be retarding my timing at idle and therefore lowering my idle...currently I like my idle speed it's alittle fast but the truck starts on a dime and I like that....I guess I need to play with the timing...hmmm any sugesstions

Despite what AZfj40 said about advance, I think you are right as far as semantics when you say "retarding", because I THINK you have a vacuum retard (as opposed to a vacuum advance) distributor. It isn't possible to see for sure, but it looks like the vacuum hose is going to the firewall side of the distributor, which would mean retard, unless it coils around to the front. Which is it for sure?

Anyway, it is your timing that you are retarding (or advancing), not your idle speed (although that can affect it). And you don't want extra vacuum affecting your timing at idle. There should be no vacuum whether it is hooked up or not, which is how it would be if it was hooked up properly to the carb, at idle.

You set your idle speed at the carb. Set your timing by adjusting the distributor.
The vacuum will work when the carb tells it to if it is hooked up properly.
 
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cool..yeah i know that about it affecting the timing but idle speed is affected by the timing right?
currently my engine idles alittle fast and aparently thats because the vacume is advancing it at idle?
So to get it to run the way it is i'll need to manually advance my timing to make up for looseing the vacume at idle...right???
 
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Timing

Mac, I wrote my previous message assuming you had a vacuum advance dizzy, and either way the line should go to ported vacuum!
When you get the lines correct, (Please see a manual) then set the timing at 7-8 degrees advance, with the vacuum line off the dizzy, and plugged, and at 650RPM.
Earl
 

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