- Thread starter
- #21
Do you have a recommended fan size, I believe there are a few options blade designs and diameters?Fan shroud is a must
Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Do you have a recommended fan size, I believe there are a few options blade designs and diameters?Fan shroud is a must
Part numbers?I use oem 2500hd clutch and fan
Could you elaborate on this matt? If I don't have a bypass valve I'm always feeling hot air coming out of my vents even with the hvac lever set to cold...I don't believe in the heater outlet bypass anymore, the inside of the water pump does it for you
Just happen to have all that here for n up and coming lsswap in a Lx450Part numbers?
Could you elaborate on this matt? If I don't have a bypass valve I'm always feeling hot air coming out of my vents even with the hvac lever set to cold...
I had the same issue.If I don't have a bypass valve I'm always feeling hot air coming out of my vents even with the hvac lever set to cold...
Not a problemI had the same issue.
Few years back I put a shut off valve (from an FZJ80) midpoint (still there), between the block, and heater valve.....
Couple of months ago while replacing my bezel I found one of the clips (right side) that hold the blue cable had snapped off.....
View attachment 2450658View attachment 2450659
This didn't help the heater valve isolate properly......
Might want to look at that clip to see that it is locked in place...
Thanks for posting those #'s @tmxmotorsports
Just happen to have all that here for n up and coming lsswap in a Lx450
@Dumpolina check out this vid. Has my old and new fan. Old one is a pair of 12" spals.
New video by Kevin Chon
I have the old ones still if ur interested in a super thin setup.
Now that I redid the radiator setup a big issue I found with the old setup was the rad was sucking in hot air because there was big gaps between the radiator and the rad support. Wish I had tried addressing that first with foam to fill in those gaps before swapping fans but I was in there so I replaced fans since a bigger shroud doesn't hurt and and redid the foam.
I haven't had a chance to stress test the new setup as it's cold in LA now and truck is in body shop for a month for new paint.
The steam port dumping into a heater hose is a problem. The idea is to remove air from the cooling system. By dumping it into a heater hose it is putting that air right back into the system. The steam port needs to dump into the upper tank, top of a side tank, surge tank or upper heater hose to be efficient.
I use a bypass valve in all my swaps and will continue to do so. My personal preference is a mechanical fan. Unfortunately not all LS series motors are set up to take a mechanical fan. A proper shroud is a must! I use Ron Davis radiators in my swaps and at anything over 35-40 MPH in the middle of the summer, 95-100 degrees, electric fans do not even turn on and the trucks run around 195-200 degrees.
Keep in mind, these motors do not have common over heating issue in the vehicles from GM.
Do you have a recommended fan size, I believe there are a few options blade designs and diameters?
Derale Performance 16831 Gray/Black High Output Dual Radiator FanThat new set up is sweet! Do you have the Derale part number? I don't know if I have that much clearance, i'd like to look at the specs though
Dumping the steam port into the system dumps air back into the system. Exactly why the steam ports are there, to remove air in the form of steam from the system.
I had one with it ported into the water pump the water pump failed within two weeks so that is no longer an option for me.Just curious, have you ever run one of these with the steam port left open just to see what happens?