V8 gurus - Lend me your collective engine location knowledge! (1 Viewer)

[POTATO LAUNCHER]

The swap book is a very good baseline but not a step by step manual so final fitment is per vehicle. Some tweaking is to be expected.
Since you are in the V8 swap mindset currently, keep a parts number list for future reference. I did that when I did mine and it has rewarded me many times. Belts, hoses, mounts and the like. Also plan ahead on regular wear parts, how difficult will it be to access a slave cylinder or adjust it if you are in the middle of no where?

 

[bikersmurf]

X10
On manuals being a starting point.

Driveshafts look fine.
Just remember you'll need exhaust and access to at least 7 of 8 spark plugs without pulling the SBC.

 

[Tin basher]

Theories are a good start point. I've had driveshafts balance when they shouldn't and not when they should. I'm still waiting for the explanation of how an 80 front driveshaft only runs smooth 90 degrees out of phase

I'd like this explained how this works

rear shaft from a Yamaha quad and yes that is the only way it will spline together

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

The swap book is a very good baseline but not a step by step manual so final fitment is per vehicle. Some tweaking is to be expected.
Since you are in the V8 swap mindset currently, keep a parts number list for future reference. I did that when I did mine and it has rewarded me many times. Belts, hoses, mounts and the like. Also plan ahead on regular wear parts, how difficult will it be to access a slave cylinder or adjust it if you are in the middle of no where?

X10
On manuals being a starting point.

Driveshafts look fine.
Just remember you'll need exhaust and access to at least 7 of 8 spark plugs without pulling the SBC.

I'd like this explained how this works View attachment 1445834rear shaft from a Yamaha quad and yes that is the only way it will spline together

Well I missed these messages - which all imply I'm overthinking it, but I forged ahead nonetheless.

I dropped plumb lines from both pinions, and connected the dots with chalk, then did the same with the transfercase flanges.

It turns out that the transfercase and pinion flanges were by no means parallel. At first they were off by about 1" along the distance of the front and rear driveshafts.

The "cross" was where my rear transfercase plumb line fell. The "circle" is where it needed to be to be parallel with the rear pinion. The blue line is the line between front and rear pinions.

After much measuring and nudging I managed to get the mostly squared up.

The rear mount is 100% maxed out to the passenger side, to the poin where I'm going to need to grind down the top weld:

Up front, compromises had to be made with steering shaft clearances to angle the engine sufficiently. After checking the belt size and mocking up the pulley - I should have 3/8-1/2" between the pump and steering shaft. This makes me nervous since these trucks flex like wet spaghetti - but I'm hoping I can find a 15.5" V-belt to replace the 16" on my setup currently uses so I can cheat the pump back toward the block:

All in all the engine is about 1/2" shifted to the driver's side, and there's just under 2" of offset between transfercase flanges and pinion flanges.

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

I may also have to grind down the passenger side rear mount a bit - as it is VERY close to the parking brake backing plate.

 

[Tin basher]

@RWBeringer4x4
I would replace that mangled timing cover before finishing the front of the engine maybe replace timing chain while balancer and cover is off

 

[sadam_husain]

I know its a lot more mucking around and you don't have accessory bolt holes in your heads but you can always fab up a custom bracket to mount the pump up a bit higher away from the steering shaft, just have to make sure you've still got enough belt wrap around the pump pulley so it doesn't slip

 

[bikersmurf]

I may also have to grind down the passenger side rear mount a bit - as it is VERY close to the parking brake backing plate.

View attachment 1446978

I also needed to heavily modify the passenger side rear mount on mine to have adequate clearance. Years later some grease monkey cut the corner off it with a hot wrench... would've given him a piece of my mind if I'd seen it before a year later.

@RWBeringer4x4
I would replace that mangled timing cover before finishing the front of the engine maybe replace timing chain while balancer and cover is off

I'd go with painted rather than chrome which are prone to leaking.

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

@RWBeringer4x4
I would replace that mangled timing cover before finishing the front of the engine maybe replace timing chain while balancer and cover is off

The whole engine is coming out, get resealed, repainted, etc. I just figured I'd get all the fitment done before I care about all the fresh paint and covers. I've already got a new timing cover ready and waiting to go on.

I know its a lot more mucking around and you don't have accessory bolt holes in your heads but you can always fab up a custom bracket to mount the pump up a bit higher away from the steering shaft, just have to make sure you've still got enough belt wrap around the pump pulley so it doesn't slip

There is actually already a different pump bracket that would fit the bill - the issue is that I also have the old driver's side, ram's horn mounted alternator bracket. According to most web wisdom the higher pump mount will result in belt conflicts.

Long story short - I went down this road, and unfortunately there isn't an easy answer short of all new brackets and pulleys.

It seems like this setup will still work, and a new, shorter belt is cheap if necessary to pull the pump in a bit.

I also needed to heavily modify the passenger side rear mount on mine to have adequate clearance. Years later some grease monkey cut the corner off it with a hot wrench... would've given him a piece of my mind if I'd seen it before a year later.

I'd go with painted rather than chrome which are prone to leaking.

I'm ditching chrome wherever possible when I clean up this engine. It's a truck, not a hot rod - never cared for the chromed-out look. The timing cover will be black.

Glad to hear I'm not the only one with mount issues. The backing plate doesn't move so really all I need to account for is mount flex/movement. I may try to open up the clearance from 1/8" to 1/4" or so. It shouldn't take long when the engine is back out.

 

[RAYJON]

hey whats the part number for the mounts you are using on the transfercase

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

hey whats the part number for the mounts you are using on the transfercase

They're OEM-style Front motor mounts for 1976 and newer FJ40's: Part number 12361-60022 from Toyota. I believe mine are actually made-in-taiwan knock-offs from DEA, part number A6281.

I will say that if I did it over again, I'd probably use the older circular mounts back there - the metal bracketing on the later model motor mounts cause clearance issues. I may still go this route as things progress.

 

[nogo]

Those old 'power pack' heads can be APITA not having acc mounting holes!....Would be easy enough to fab up a mounting bracket to place the pump up out of the way on the right hand side.

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

Those old 'power pack' heads can be APITA not having acc mounting holes!....Would be easy enough to fab up a mounting bracket to place the pump up out of the way on the right hand side.

Which in turn makes for all new power steering hoses and routing to run the lines back over to the driver's side where the steering box is...and conflicts with the current location of the battery. My goal, as stated, is to get away with running the same accessory locations as were there previously, wherever possible. Based on the measurements so far, I THINK I should be able to make it work.

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

Alright, here is some more comprehensive paint art of where I THINK I stand with these drivelines after much futzing around -

Obviously the front driveshaft too a back seat to getting the rear set up properly, but I'm still not thrilled with those angles. I ran into U-joint binding at droop in the past - I'm not sure I'm out of the woods just yet in that regard.

Edit: Just to be sure, I "drooped" the front of the truck tonight, and it looks like I go from about 9 degrees to about 15 degrees of driveshaft angle at droop on stock suspension - which would put my U-joint operating angles at 19 degrees at the transfercase and 16 degrees at the pinion - I think that will WORK, but it's getting awfully close to maxing out the yokes...wondering what a 2.5" lift would look like down the road...

Then again, how much time will I spend at full droop?

 

[POTATO LAUNCHER]

Bingo^^^^^^^
Very similar to my set up. If you move your rear axle back a bit I bet you can swap front to back driveshafts if you ever get in a pinch.

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

Still a bit concerned about the compound angle on the rear driveshaft. If you factor in the 3 degree downward operating angle, and the 4 degree sideways angle due to the offset, you wind up with a 5 degree compound angle...

Theoretically a U-joint at 5 degrees SHOULD be good to about 3500 rpm...but I'm really playing with the fringes of what is considered "acceptable."

 

[Downey]

I haven't visited this for awhile, but as I recall the Landcruiser u-joints max out at about 35 degrees, which is actually very lavish considering many others (Ford/GM) max out in the 22 to 25 degree area.

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

I haven't visited this for awhile, but as I recall the Landcruiser u-joints max out at about 35 degrees, which is actually very lavish considering many others (Ford/GM) max out in the 22 to 25 degree area.

The U-Joints do, but the driveshaft yokes collide at just about 20 degrees - I explored that a little earlier today. I jacked the front wheels off the ground and did my best to ensure the front driveshaft wouldn't bind at full droop. Looks like the downward angle, at droop, will be about 14-15 degrees. With the compound angles I'm dealing with, I can go to 18 or 19 degrees before the yokes bind.

In short, I think I'm safe, for now, but I'm not sure how much more droop a 2-2.5" lift might add in the future...If it results in another inch and a half drop at the pinion I'll be in dangerous territory...

 

[cult45]

Blaze on mate, blaze on!

 

[cult45]

Early cruisers ran a centered diff with offset transfercase from the factory!! Built a dozen v8 cruisers with a little offset and never had driveline issues, you will be fine clearing your pump. No worries mate!

@catskinner there ya go eh..