V8 conversion - specific application Q's (1 Viewer)

[Rice]

hawk, pictures of a OLD AA saddle style mounting, using factory frame mounts, plate style adapter
Nice pics and info. BUT

I DO NOT RECCOMMEND mounting the engine that close to the firewall. again sig line.

I ran into more then my fair share of cooling and hot air movement problems caused by
no air movement with the engine placed that close to the firewall. and removing the passenger
valve cover with removing the heater hose first is not the funniest either. BEEN there done that
and do not ever wish to do it again

I guess you are stuck with the lesser of 2 evils with keeping the stock 4 spd.

I would have to agree. Even though the 4 speed kit keeps you from being able to move the engine up very far, the more the better. Being able to pull valve covers and the dist without changing the laws of physics is very nice.

 

[HI^C]

LOL forgot about the dizzy, ran three clasps actually locked ( if i was lucky ) most of the time only 2.

 

[Adventure Teq]

Hi^C,

So you're saying that its an AA bell and plate as well as the front mounts?

Thanks for the advice, I just got it a couple months ago, and I think it's been this way for at least 5 years or so. I think I'll leave it as is. Havn't had to pull the valve cover yet, but I think I can manage if need be. Now the diz, well, I think I'll be able to get it. We'll see. I've seen them a bit closer to the firewalls and I thought that mine was kind of far. It should be aight.

Sorry for the hijack Bandy.

 

[HI^C]

Yep i am dang there 100% those are OLD AA stuff, ie like 15+yrs old. I have two or 3 of those style mounts and plate adapters rolling around here.

Looking at the pics again, i think mine was originally mounted lower in the rear and just a bit
more into the firewall.

IF it works without problems i would not worry about it, but just from my experience I personally will not mount the setup like that again. One of those things, teach me once and i will never do it again


And on the AA/downey dount mounts, i just used good condtion old factory toyota dounts metal cased style and they work great.

 

[bandy rooster]

ugh damn dudes, i thought i had a set plan but everyones feeding me different info , but some info is better then none... is there some kind of general consensess (SP?) of what we can all agree on would be good measurements?

or should i just stop asking questions lol

don't worry about the hijack..its all good

 

[bandy rooster]

i'm also not worried about any tranny tunnel modifications that i'd have to do ... my rig is beyond stock and i don't mind cutting holes in stuff and reshaping...

 

[Bret]

Having just gone through this on mine, make sure what exhaust manifolds/headers you are going to use because it can make a difference on steering shaft and exhaust clearance. I put the assembled engine/tranny/transfer in and held it up with jack stands/engine lift (buy one if you don't already have easy access to one), and start looking for problems. It all ends in a compromise of something. You have to determine what compromises are important to you. For instance the saginaw power steering will limit how far to the drivers side you can place the motor. Moving the motor forward enough to provide easy access to valve covers and distributer will make it so you have to bend the shifter handle quite a bit, but it can be done. The list goes on but when you mock it up you will soon see. Some that come to mind: rear brake drum removal, valve cover removal, dizzy removal, exhaust clearance/bolt removal (both sides), front diff clearance to oil pan, fan to radiator alignment/bolt removal, accessory clearance (alt, PS, etc.), driveshaft angles (Front and rear), fluid filling/draining, heater hose plumbing, fuel line plumbing/pump location, oil/fuel filter access, et al.

So in short, start mocking it up and it will all fall into place. Measure 3 times cut once, measure some more then weld. For me welding was the last step.

Good luck.

 

[llih]

I used the Firestine mounts and they centered the engine. I am running the stock 3 speed and transfer. I had used Bob's mounts to replace the old downey saddle mount. My engine sets further foward than the one in the pics. Great engine mounts, best I have seen. Use the ram exhaust manifolds if possible. I have the rear dump and they work, but I think the center rams are better. I used the steering kit from Marks offroad (downey's I think) and it worked well. I purchased a pillow bearing from Granger. Ran the hoses up over the shock piller. I had no problems with the steering. The only problem I had was with the engine being lowered with the new mounts, the fan hit the lower rad hose. Had to convert to electric fan. With the engine foward you will have to bend the shift lever to clear heater. The engine being foward is supposed to distribute the weight better, at least that was what I was told.

 

[eelson]

I will say, and I think we can all agree, there isn't one right way to do this. In fact, there's probably more than 10 right ways to do this conversion. I found sucess going with the AA kit, keeping the stock 4 speed and following the AA instructions. Again, most important this is to take your time.

 

[dgangle]

I did mine per exact AA dimension (or as close as I could get it) and ran into none of the clearance issues mentioned. My shifter did come up under the heater but I cut it, rotated 180 and welded.

 

[cruisertom]

I used to work for an outfit in Co. called Colorado Toyota specialists. I looked at probably a dozen different 40's with V8's including mine and everyone was different. There is no spec. Some of the AA stuff looks way to close to the firewall for me. My thinking was put as far foward as possible to get as long a rear shaft as possible. Allow plenty of room for radiator, a good(complete) shroud and fan clearance. There are so many variables that all the measurements in the world will mean nothing to your application. Do what works for you by setting in there and just stare at it for a loooooong time. Good luck.

 

[warpdriv]

Do a seach on ram exhaust. Texican posted some pics on exhaust and part numbers for the crossover exhaust pipe.

If you can not find it, send Texican a PM.

Good luck.

 

[bandy rooster]

actually the suburban that its comming off it has the ram style exhaust on it... with the rear dump

-thanks all for your input it was great help.

 

[ken_79-fj40]

actually the suburban that its comming off it has the ram style exhaust on it... with the rear dump

-thanks all for your input it was great help.

To use the bolt on Y pipe you have to have center dump rams horns on both sides. Doesn't make a huge difference, most exhaust shops can custom make one for cheap anyway. It does make it a lot easier if you don't have your own pipe bender.

 

[bandy rooster]

i have a pipe bender... so it won't be to much of a deal... it just won't be as pretty

 

[64fj40]

how much u want for the 700r4 ? im looking to buy

 

[FL cruiser]

Many of the 85, 86 & 87 Chevy engines have computer controlled quadrajets. They don't work very well w/o the computer. See if there is an exhaust sensor in front of the catalytic convertor and extra wires to the carb. If it does, it's computer controlled. Just extra work wiring in the computer and sensors. Much easier just to get a different carb.
Maybe you'll get lucky and the suburban won't have it.
.
Not sure on the distributers on those years. But if there isn't a vacuum advance or advance weights inside the dist, it might be ESC (electronis spark control). If so, just slap on an HEI from an earlier year.
(went wheeling today with your bro today at Alpha)

 

[bandy rooster]

i drove the suburban...shifts perfect - tranny 200.00 i'm located in central PA

thanks FL cruiser i'll look into it. Glad you came back to the alpha pit....

 

[wtmtnterror]

Not to hi-jack your thread or anything.....

I'm working on the same thing right now, but with the 700r4 tranny with LC T-case. I'm thinking that I need to place it as far foreward as I can to make up for the long combo? I don't have anything mocked up yet still working on pulling the old motor.

 

[fj40charles]

Not sure if anyone has mentioned this... I would not use a 700r4 from a 85-87 years. These years have weak parts and you'll need to swap the case to get the better parts.