V8 conversion - specific application Q's (1 Viewer)

[bandy rooster]

I will be getting a chassis from a 1972 fj-40 that i will be stripping and boxing in and painting it with rustBullet. It will have stock axles,4spd tranny and transfer case. I will be getting the AA 350 to 4spd bellhousing adapter for it...


I'm getting a sweet deal on a 1985 suburban with 50 - 60 k on the motor backed by a 700r4 transmission... I believe its a carbed motor. I won't be buying the AA mounts as the hours upon hours of reading on the web has told me there no good. In the future i will switch to a TBI or completly change out the motor. I also thought this was a good project because i can get a great deal of it done while still having my 40 on the road then i'll just drop my body on the completed rolling chassis...

I will be parting out the truck, keeping what i need - selling the tranny and D44 which is no good to me..

1.anybody that has this setup is there engine centered or offset

2. is the 350 on this suburban suitable for this swap

3. can the stock gas tank still be used?

4. has anyone made there own tranny/t-case mounts for this swap
-every swap i've seen, they've had the AA mount.. would it be safer just to
go with that? I'm fabbing my own motor mounts to. The only favor i may
from a mud member is the measurements of how far back there engine sits
as well as how low/high its sits as well....

I was told it needed to be moved forward 3.5 inches for dist. clearence



thanks for putting up with me... But the only way to find out some things is to ask....

if you have any comments/concerns on how I should revamp my idea i'm open for sure.. but the deal i'm getting on the suburban is good and i'd really like to use my stock tranny and case

 

[bandy rooster]

this will have saginaw power steering... Spring over axle with stock springs if that makes any difference...

 

[lone gunman]

i have all the AA mounts and its been about 4 years since the conversion. i didnt do it but know the PO well (10 years +) they worked for me.

lots of peaple have fabbed there own mounts, its just easier to buy them.

the suburban motor is fine for your plans.

my motor looks centered but i have not measured.

yes the stock tank works fine just plug off the return line until you go fuel injection, then you will have it for the return line for the injection.

my engine is only maybe a inch or so from the fire wall (at valve cover top) and i have HEI and no problems but the floor boards do get a little worn. not burning hot but very warm.

have you gone to www.advanceadapters.com and got there catalog it has some good info, just a thought and i know i have seen pics on here of mounts others have made.

 

[jhaha]

Bandy,

First, good luck. I don't really understand when you are asking if the engine is offset, sometimes it is said that the engine should be moved slightly (like less than 2 inches) to one side to allow for better driveshaft angles. Also, I have the downy engine mounts, which also came with a nice "V8 instruction manual" which was a good guide for where the mounts go. I don't have this in a place where I can send it to you, but the measurement is like 19.5 inches back from the front crossmember. That gives you plenty of room for distributer clearence, but still leaving room for fans, and radiator clearence.

The stock gas tank can be used, but you will find it gets empty quick!!

Also the 350 block should be a 4 bolt main block; sturdy and more than adequate for your swap.

Hope this helps, let me know if you have any questions, I just got done with my frame off v8 swap.

 

[jhaha]

you beat me to it gunman

 

[bandy rooster]

of course i've gona to advanced adapters! lol... thanks for the info.

if you have any spare time could you check your offset? thanks again

 

[Rice]

You will want to offset the engine about 1 inch. Be careful to mock up the steering shaft before you make your motor mount welds (including exhaust manifold/header).

The engine is fine ... it does not matter if it is a 4-bolt motor or not. Careful study has shown that under 450 HP it doesn't matter and even then there's no strong advantage.

Gas tank is fine.

My setup is longer than yours but if you can get away with moving the motor up a few inches you'll be much happier with firewall issues such as distributor and heater lines.

 

[pbgbottle]

i shoved my engine as far as i could go to the drivers side . to try to keep the drive shaft in line with the t-case .

 

[lone gunman]

i can measure stuff tomorrow or friday if still needed, all my drive lines line up pretty straight. the engine could be an inch or so to the passenger side or drivers side but i cant tell by looking, i never noticed.

 

[dustin]

my motor is centered. sits perfect. I have a 420 to a 3 speed case though, so my tcase is clocked down a tad, maybe pulling the drivelines an inch or so inward compared to stock.

you may look into the bob firestein mounts. I have them now and they are very sweet. I had the downey mounts on there before (same as AA). they are fine in my opinion as far as strength goes. just be sure to weld them to a scab plate and not directly to the frame. HOWEVER, the rubber donut bushings for them suck really bad.

 

[bandy rooster]

i guess common sence tells me not to do any permanent welds on the mounts until i have the entire drive train sitting in there for mock-up... i always thought it was offset towards the pass. to clear the steering but now i hear its towards the drivers to line up the tcase...

so the 350 chevy i'm getting is not a 4 bolt?

 

[HI^C]

curious answers already

centered, unless you need clearence for the steering shaft on exhaust.


yep

yep

IMO build adjustable mounts, i like the downey style similar to AA, but many holes
to allow adjusting, both on the engine, then few holes for transfer adjustments.

2 bolt 4 bolt, is really for the birds, you are not pushing the HP needed to worry
about it, and for the $$$ splayed 2 bolt wipes the 4 bolt block any day. DONT EVEN
think about this right now.

Rear driveshaft alignment more important.

I assume your keeping long pump stuff, approx 5-6" off radiator to waterpump pulley.
enough to toreass fan and take the pulley bolts out if needed. need pics email me.

 

[pbgbottle]

AA says 12 inches off the drivers side frame rail to crank center heres pic

 

[eelson]

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think the 3.5" distance comes into play when you're keeping the 40 tranny and the new engine/tranny placement is about 3.5" forward. I had to bend the stick shift around the heater. The AA catalog is a good source. I used all the AA mounts, crossmember, belhousing, etc. with a new Centerforce DF clutch, and it worked really well. Just remember to take your time. It also helps if you have a bare block you can use to mock things up before the finished engine is placed. I had to drop in a take out a block a couple times just to make sure everything looked right. And yes, my 350 sits about 1" over for driveline placement. One other thing that isn't noted in the AA book (I don't think) is that the radiator should be lowered a tad to get it a little more centered with the fan. That was easy, I just cut the mounts and moved them down a couple inches. Also, use the long water pump so the fan's a little closer. Good luck.

 

[HawkDriver]

Well, I took some measurements and pics for ya of what I thought might help ya out. I'm not sure who made the mounts and bell housing for mine but it seems to be different from AA's. Just look at the measurements for reference. 350 4spd trans and case. P-side valve cover is like 3/8" from firewall and D-side is a couple inches, see pic. Notice the concave area in firewall is offset to Dside as well which may be one reason for my engine offset in addition to the D-shaft alignment. Shafts seem to be in line exactly.


Engine offset to Driver side approx 1 inch.
Rear dshaft 24 1/2" mount surface to mount surface (lenghtened).
Front dshaft 27 1/2" " " " (shortened).
The front mounting surface of the block is 15 1/4" from the aft edge of the front crossmember.
The Coil pack dizzy is 1 1/4" from the firewall.
The rear bell housing mounting surface is 2" from the firewall.
The D-side stock frame motor mount hole is 1 1/4" forward of the front engine mount surface.
The P-side stock frame motor mount hole is 2 3/4" forward of the front engine mount surface.
Trans shifter is about 1/2" from heater when in Neutral, it is also bent see pic.
The bellhousing and adapter plates are 6 3/4" long.


This 3 pics per post is a pain, bear with me.

 

[HawkDriver]

Pics

 

[HawkDriver]

Pics2

 

[HawkDriver]

Whew... Last ones.

Yeah it might be a little more in depth than you wanted or asked for, but here ya go.

Oh and yes I do notice the oil leaks. I'll get to it.

 

[bandy rooster]

wow man....thanks... i really appreciate it..t

 

[HI^C]

hawk, pictures of a OLD AA saddle style mounting, using factory frame mounts, plate style adapter
Nice pics and info. BUT

I DO NOT RECCOMMEND mounting the engine that close to the firewall. again sig line.

I ran into more then my fair share of cooling and hot air movement problems caused by
no air movement with the engine placed that close to the firewall. and removing the passenger
valve cover with removing the heater hose first is not the funniest either. BEEN there done that
and do not ever wish to do it again

I guess you are stuck with the lesser of 2 evils with keeping the stock 4 spd.