I am posting on this board, even though I have an FJ60, since there seems to be more of a knowledge base on this topic here. The FJ60 folks seem to lean toward automatic transmissions in the V8 conversions.
I am working on my V8 conversion, (1st gen Chevy 350, Ranger torque splitter, Advance adapters slave bracket, stock Toyota 4 speed), and trying to gain some throw from my stock 1987 FJ60 slave cylinder, to actuate my chevy clutch fork.
I measured today - I am moving the clutch slave rod about 15mm. I have adjusted the pedal height to the factory spec, bled the system to where I am totally confident there is no air in it. Brand new slave cylinder and clutch master cylinder.
I have a 5/16 threaded rod for the slave rod. This lets me adjust the connection to the clutch fork anyplace I want it.
This morning, I adjusted it to where the piston in the slave was fully compressed, and the clutch was disengaged, (I spun the clutch disk with my chubby little fingers), then began backing it off, hoping I could find a spot where it's disengaged when the pedal is down, and not dragging the throwout bearing on the clutch when released. No such spot. My return spring is a monster compared to stock, so it's pulling the rod back into the clutch slave.
After reading about a million threads in the FJ 40, 55,60 boards, I think replacing the clutch master with a larger bore unit will help, giving me more travel of the slave rod, and let me find a place that works. I do not know the slave cylinder diameter, although I THINK it's .72 inches. Maybe someone can chime in with that data?
I have seen several options for older FJ40 masters, early FJ 55 masters and aftermarket choices, (Wildwood). The common feature is a 1" bore in the master. I think that will give enough fluid to the slave to get me the extra ~8mm - 10 mm I think I need to work.
Will the older, 1970's FJ40 clutch master bolt in the existing firewall holes, and give me the extra fluid?
Or will another model BRAKE master cylinder work better, and also have a firewall bolt pattern I can work with?
Does the m10 fitting on my clutch line mate with this master, or will I need to flange a new fitting on that line? (I have no problem doing this, got tools and can get fittings)
What year OEM part is the most desirable?
Any other hints?
Thanks for the advice!
John
I am working on my V8 conversion, (1st gen Chevy 350, Ranger torque splitter, Advance adapters slave bracket, stock Toyota 4 speed), and trying to gain some throw from my stock 1987 FJ60 slave cylinder, to actuate my chevy clutch fork.
I measured today - I am moving the clutch slave rod about 15mm. I have adjusted the pedal height to the factory spec, bled the system to where I am totally confident there is no air in it. Brand new slave cylinder and clutch master cylinder.
I have a 5/16 threaded rod for the slave rod. This lets me adjust the connection to the clutch fork anyplace I want it.
This morning, I adjusted it to where the piston in the slave was fully compressed, and the clutch was disengaged, (I spun the clutch disk with my chubby little fingers), then began backing it off, hoping I could find a spot where it's disengaged when the pedal is down, and not dragging the throwout bearing on the clutch when released. No such spot. My return spring is a monster compared to stock, so it's pulling the rod back into the clutch slave.
After reading about a million threads in the FJ 40, 55,60 boards, I think replacing the clutch master with a larger bore unit will help, giving me more travel of the slave rod, and let me find a place that works. I do not know the slave cylinder diameter, although I THINK it's .72 inches. Maybe someone can chime in with that data?
I have seen several options for older FJ40 masters, early FJ 55 masters and aftermarket choices, (Wildwood). The common feature is a 1" bore in the master. I think that will give enough fluid to the slave to get me the extra ~8mm - 10 mm I think I need to work.
Will the older, 1970's FJ40 clutch master bolt in the existing firewall holes, and give me the extra fluid?
Or will another model BRAKE master cylinder work better, and also have a firewall bolt pattern I can work with?
Does the m10 fitting on my clutch line mate with this master, or will I need to flange a new fitting on that line? (I have no problem doing this, got tools and can get fittings)
What year OEM part is the most desirable?
Any other hints?
Thanks for the advice!
John