V8 conversion clutch slave challenge

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

May 12, 2013
Longwood, Florida
I am posting on this board, even though I have an FJ60, since there seems to be more of a knowledge base on this topic here. The FJ60 folks seem to lean toward automatic transmissions in the V8 conversions.

I am working on my V8 conversion, (1st gen Chevy 350, Ranger torque splitter, Advance adapters slave bracket, stock Toyota 4 speed), and trying to gain some throw from my stock 1987 FJ60 slave cylinder, to actuate my chevy clutch fork.

I measured today - I am moving the clutch slave rod about 15mm. I have adjusted the pedal height to the factory spec, bled the system to where I am totally confident there is no air in it. Brand new slave cylinder and clutch master cylinder.

I have a 5/16 threaded rod for the slave rod. This lets me adjust the connection to the clutch fork anyplace I want it.

This morning, I adjusted it to where the piston in the slave was fully compressed, and the clutch was disengaged, (I spun the clutch disk with my chubby little fingers), then began backing it off, hoping I could find a spot where it's disengaged when the pedal is down, and not dragging the throwout bearing on the clutch when released. No such spot. My return spring is a monster compared to stock, so it's pulling the rod back into the clutch slave.

After reading about a million threads in the FJ 40, 55,60 boards, I think replacing the clutch master with a larger bore unit will help, giving me more travel of the slave rod, and let me find a place that works. I do not know the slave cylinder diameter, although I THINK it's .72 inches. Maybe someone can chime in with that data?

I have seen several options for older FJ40 masters, early FJ 55 masters and aftermarket choices, (Wildwood). The common feature is a 1" bore in the master. I think that will give enough fluid to the slave to get me the extra ~8mm - 10 mm I think I need to work.

Will the older, 1970's FJ40 clutch master bolt in the existing firewall holes, and give me the extra fluid?

Or will another model BRAKE master cylinder work better, and also have a firewall bolt pattern I can work with?

Does the m10 fitting on my clutch line mate with this master, or will I need to flange a new fitting on that line? (I have no problem doing this, got tools and can get fittings)

What year OEM part is the most desirable?

Any other hints?

Thanks for the advice!
AA bellhousing?
Clutch disengagement???

(1) Sounds like you have mis-matched master & slave cylinders (i.e. 1" of travel at the master is not equaling 1" of travel at the slave), need to get that sorted out.
(2) You don't need a monster spring on the shift fork, it's only job is to keep the T.O. Bearing back at the tranny when you are not shifting, and you could do that with finger tip pressure.
(3) In the old days Chevy diaphragm pressure plates took more travel to disengage than what was built into the Toyota hydraulics, that's why Downey and AA had special Chevota clutches made that took less travel to disengage. I understand that UK (or something like that) now makes a Chevy clutch that works with the stock hydraulics???
No sir, not AA bell housing

Chevy bell housing 3779553.
bell hsing.jpg
Is there more than one slave rod position on the clutch fork? Which one do you have the slave working on?
I recently put a new transmission in my 1969 (3 speed Toyota) after 3rd gear went out. While I had the trans out I threw in a new clutch. A 12inch 3 finger style is what I put in. (was recommended).

When I got everything bolted up, no matter what I tried I could not get the clutch throwout bearing adjustment dialed in. It would either have slight contact with the flywheel or not disengage at all.

The problem is that the stock Toyota hydraulics (in 1969, don't know about your 60) don't have enough fluid moving to disengage the chevy clutch. From your post you have already come to this conclusion.

I researched and bought a brake master out of a 1969 that bolted up (was suggested). This brake master cylinder moved more fluid, in turn would completely disengage the clutch and allow the truck to be drivable. Drove it for about a week but the clutch was soooo hard to depress I needed a different solution. Waste of money.

The solution: Hate to be the bearer of bad news but you probably need a different clutch pressure plate. You need a low profile one. (where the fingers are flat).Works great with the Toyota hydraulics because it needs less throw to disengage.

Just trying to help...:cheers:
Last edited:
There is a Ranger torque splitter from AA in between the bell housing and Toyota transmission, Downey.
This is the same setup I used on my Piggy, but I had the Ranger setup as an under drive. No need to go faster on 35's, just a little slower on the trail. I used the Centerforce clutch parts with my stock clutch master and slave on my Piggy, and it worked good. John
Just got back inside, thank you to all who replied. Very active forum, I might be shopping for a FJ55, if the help comes that easily!! :)

I thought about what Downey posted, I wasn't getting the full one inch from the slave.

Took it apart, put it back together, adjusted it where I thought it should be, and it worked. Then I put the inspection cover on, and it made the noise that I "thought" was the throwout bearing rubbing on the clutch. It turns out, the cover was not on quite right, and rubbing on the flywheel. Sounded like a cat going through a jet engine, only it didn't stop. I got that sorted out, pretty quickly.

Biggest "Cruiser Grin" EVER! I drove around the block, got all the way up into 4th gear, and it was pretty good! I watched my high temperature paint smoke off the exhaust manifold when I got back, but other than that, nothing horrible. GREAT day to be me!!

Thanks again, the replies kicked my butt back out there, and that is what made me fix it.:bang:
I have a question for y'all. Can I use the ranger torque splitter on my fj40? If yes do I have to gut my floor to smitherines? Also the kit to move the slave cylinder.... Will I need to relocate it to the drivers side?
Don't know what your running now. Stock? Check with Advanced Adapters to see what all different arrangements are available on the Ranger. The Ranger does NOT dictate which side the clutch master/fork are on. I ran one as an underdrive on my 76 FJ 55 with a 350 and my original H42. Worked great. No other adapters required. John
whether it was my fj60 using stock fj60 clutch master and slave with a ranger OD and stock chevy bell housing (AA SBC to LC slave adapter)

or my 1967 FJ40 with stock slave and master using 3 speed and Downey adapter

I used a clutch pressure plate and clutch disk from a 1968 Checker Marathon I6 engine.

This is a short throw pressure plate. The teeth/forks on the clutch pressure plate are completely parallel to the flywheel rather than going out towards the transmission like most SBC pressure plates.

It runs about 150 bucks from Orielys...Advanced...autozone

Use stock land cruiser throw out bearing (for your ranger OD it would be the fj60 throw out bearing)

The fj40 has been a DD for over 2 years with this set up.

the only custom part is the rod going from the slave to the clutch fork, It was some rigged arm the PO had on the F motor that was in there. Worked great so props to the PO as it was one last part i had to make for the swap.
Running a LUK (earily 1970s Chevy) 11" low diaphram clutch, Downey bel housing, Toyota Fork, 2F throwout, July 74 clutch master, July 74 clutch slave, stainless steel braided line.
I've never had any slave adjustment issues, and can push it with my "95 year old (in specalists words)" fubared knee.

Don't remember all the specs, but this has been working for me for 17 years... 75+ slaves are larger bore (= less travel) from what I remember.

SOR used to have bore specs on their site with the rebuild kits. They don't seem to have slave specs for the earlier ones now. :frown:
Last edited:

Users who are viewing this thread

Top Bottom