V-8 AA Motor Mounts Clashing W/Exhaust Manifold (1 Viewer)

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OK, I got my engine removed and cleaned and up on the bench. After replacing the leaky rear main seal I decided to bolt on the AA motor mounts to see how the fit. The right side went fine however close to the exhaust manifold. I noticed as I started to tighten up the left side that the mount was hitting the manifold and would not allow it to tighten up. My question is if I keep these manifold which I am not crazy about, should I grind an area on the manifold to give clearance? Grind an area on the mount? Would this compromise strength of the mount? Also, both manifolds are rear dump but one goes off at an angle and the other straight down. What are some other options or opinions? What about headers? I'm kind of open at this point and in no real big hurry. Also the pictures will show what I'm talking about.
Thanks
 
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my .02

Ditch those manifolds and get some ram style center dumps. From my previous experience, I'd suggest finding some new ones on eBay rather than trying to scavenge from a junkyard. New will end up being cheaper in the long run. You can then get a Walker crossover to make the rest of the exhaust easier to run. HTH.

Clint
 
Exhaust

Clint,
I considered that but excuse my ignorance, are they universal or are there year ranges of fit?

Thanks
 
I would not recommend the manifolds you have because
(a) they are a rear dump, too close to the firewall.
(b) they appear to hang down lower than alot of other GM manifolds.

We always recommend the 3/4 dumps (not center dump and not rear dump) because they actually dump behind your steering gear box, but well ahead of the firewall. Many times with Downey or AA mounts you have to grind a little off the top edge of the motor mount, not a big strength concern at all. Just depends on how far GM manifolds extend down into the motor mount area?????
 
The center dumps should fit most early year blocks. My block is a 1969 350. The best way to find out is try a used set on the block if you can get your hands on a loaner. Someone around your place must have a pair lying around.

I bought my set of rams horns new at Napa Auto parts. Was not having much luck at the local yard and was not all that excited about what was available on ebay at the time. They were special order so it took a few days to get and were not that cheap.
 
I would not recommend the manifolds you have because
(a) they are a rear dump, too close to the firewall.
(b) they appear to hang down lower than alot of other GM manifolds.

We always recommend the 3/4 dumps (not center dump and not rear dump) because they actually dump behind your steering gear box, but well ahead of the firewall.



What is the original application of these Chevy exhaust manifolds Jim?



Year? Car? Truck? ????



Thanks.
 
Manifolds

BTW this is going in a 55 and I currently have a Saginaw PS so I'm assuming my steering may not be as big of an issue as usual. I took another look at things out in the shop after the original post and also did some measuring. It appears that I have a pretty good bit of room for options but what I plan on doing is removing these manifolds and going ahead and putting the engine in (at least temporaryily) before I decide which route to go. That way I can see exactly how much room I have. Thanks for the replies so far and keep the info coming!
 
if you are set on using those manifolds notch the mount, shouldnt hurt it.
 
Manifolds

Were you pleased with the quality of these? Looks like a decent price.
 
What is the original application of these Chevy exhaust manifolds Jim?



Year? Car? Truck? ????



Thanks.
I have no idea Poser because there is probably a zillion different models (car and truck) GM used them on. I do know that knowbody should have problems finding them at a wrecking yard, they are abundant.
 
I have no idea Poser because there is probably a zillion different models (car and truck) GM used them on. I do know that knowbody should have problems finding them at a wrecking yard, they are abundant.

Can you post a picture of them?
 
Were you pleased with the quality of these? Looks like a decent price.

yeah im happy.

hell i couldnt even get them off ebay that cheap.
 
Hey Camcruiser, Don't you need the heat riser spacer for the walker Y pipe? If you do, where did you get the riser or spacer?
Thanks, Ken
 
If you don't have the stock steering box you can use a set of block hugger headers. You can buy them from any performance parts place. Just make sure that the huggers you buy angle in toward the block instead of going straight down. If you do have stock steering they will still work you just have to make a small dent in the #7 cylinder exhaust tube to clear one of the bolts on the steering box. I had a set of ram horns and it was a bitch to get the oil pan in and out because the exhaust was always in the way. One of them cracked so I borrowed a set of block huggers from a friend until I got the money together to buy my own set of huggers. They are also a fraction of the weight of the ram horns. You can find them anywhere from $125-$600. They cool down faster than ram horns, and if you want to cool down your engine bay even more they are very easy to wrap with header wrap.
 
Hey Camcruiser, Don't you need the heat riser spacer for the walker Y pipe? If you do, where did you get the riser or spacer?
Thanks, Ken

i dont run a walker y pipe, the exhaust shop bent oone up for me so i guess its custom? i should get one for future times i suppose
 
Exhaust

I got the exhaust manifolds off today and thankfully I didn't break and studs (whew!). After I get the engine and the rest of the drivetrain in there I'll look at the steering and see what I can fit in there. I've always liked headers with the exception of them leaking from time to time so I may go that route.
 

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