URGENT- Low Oil Pressure during road trip (1 Viewer)

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Morning everyone


Traveling on the I-40 not too far from fort smith. Stopped outside Little Rock, and this morning, checked all the fluid levels to be safe. Could have used a little more oil so I added about a 1/4 of a quart and added AT-205 reseal (to see if it could fix a small leak I had). Instantly noticed that oil pressure was off.
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This was at about 75mph. It should be much higher at that speed.

pulled over and checked the engine.
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Don’t know what to do. Any suggestions?
 
Just a few thoughts: did the wires that go to the pressure sender get knocked at all? They are fickle when old and that connection gets corroded.

what oil filter you have? If Napa/wix replace it immediately.

the oil pumps are quite reliable. The pressure sensors are not. Not much i between the pump and the sensor. If the stop leak plugged something my bet is either the filter or the oil pickup. Filter is easiest place to start

second would be to get a real pressure gauge and hook that up to see if you actually have a pressure issue or if just the sender/wiring v
 
After the additive is your oil thinner than it was before?
If so, would that mean lower oil pressure?
I don't know.
How is the oil pressure at idle?

You may not have a problem but just less pressure due to the 'thinner' oil.
 
No experience with AT-205, but what from what Google tells me about it and what other people have reported, I wouldn't be surprised if it's causing some problems.

What I'd suggest is draining all your oil, and re-fill with some fresh, clean oil, without the AT-205. If your problem goes away, breathe easy and don't use it again. If it doesn't, replace your oil filter and check again. Probably worth doing anyway when you drain the oil regardless.

If it's still not fixed, go to a mechanic. Could be the pressure sender, but get someone with the right gear to check. If not, well I doubt you'll get to that point but either way, you want a mechanic involved by that point.
 
The clamp on your pcv hose is not on correctly. Also, where is that hose going? I see the normal black hose connected to the pcv, but a clear hose on the intake manifold.
Good catch. I always understand that clear hose to be a ventilation hose.
 
After the additive is your oil thinner than it was before?
If so, would that mean lower oil pressure?
I don't know.
How is the oil pressure at idle?

You may not have a problem but just less pressure due to the 'thinner' oil.
Oil pressure was okay at idle, but the oil pressure running at high speeds what at the same pressure as idling. Issue is solved now thankfully
 
No experience with AT-205, but what from what Google tells me about it and what other people have reported, I wouldn't be surprised if it's causing some problems.

What I'd suggest is draining all your oil, and re-fill with some fresh, clean oil, without the AT-205. If your problem goes away, breathe easy and don't use it again. If it doesn't, replace your oil filter and check again. Probably worth doing anyway when you drain the oil regardless.

If it's still not fixed, go to a mechanic. Could be the pressure sender, but get someone with the right gear to check. If not, well I doubt you'll get to that point but either way, you want a mechanic involved by that point.
Did exactly that. Issue is fixed now. Mechanics said oil looked normal and didn’t look clumpy. I think we may have added too much oil?
 
Glad to hear it's back to normal. Honestly, I'm not sure what happened. If you really wanted to know, you'd have to run a whole series of experiments trying this or that, but I think you'll be happy to just have it working normally again. It might have been the additive, or not.

I'd still suggest avoiding it though. I've never used AT-205, but I'm sceptical of any products like this. I'd personally just as soon mix epoxy into my oil. Use a good brand, full synthetic, unmodified engine oil at all times. Anything else is asking for trouble. Nobody is going to guarantee that additive won't cause problems, like oil seal damage, oil turning to sludge, or any other potential problem from running an unusual chemical mixture through the innards of your engine. Immediate catastrophic failure may not occur, but it's the stuff that's impossible to prove out of a lab, like a premature seal failure, increased engine wear, impaired heat transfer, or any number of other things that contribute to problems, which the manufacturers of stuff like this don't guarantee won't occur and know they can't be proven in the real world anyway. If you've got an oil leak, fix the leak. Products like this only really exist for people who intend to run their rigs into the ground, or want a band-aid to mask symptoms of a problem for two weeks while they on-sell to a new owner.
 
So, what oil filter did you have on there, and what's on there now?

What fixed the problem?
 
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I have used AT-205 in the past on other vehicles. While it never caused any problems, it also never fixed or slowed any leaks. I like using high-mileage Mobil 1 5W-30 in mine just to help the seals a bit but even that isn't really going to fix a leak, maybe just helps keep good seals in good condition.

I also wonder if it was the oil filter.
 
Glad to hear it's back to normal. Honestly, I'm not sure what happened. If you really wanted to know, you'd have to run a whole series of experiments trying this or that, but I think you'll be happy to just have it working normally again. It might have been the additive, or not.

I'd still suggest avoiding it though. I've never used AT-205, but I'm sceptical of any products like this. I'd personally just as soon mix epoxy into my oil. Use a good brand, full synthetic, unmodified engine oil at all times. Anything else is asking for trouble. Nobody is going to guarantee that additive won't cause problems, like oil seal damage, oil turning to sludge, or any other potential problem from running an unusual chemical mixture through the innards of your engine. Immediate catastrophic failure may not occur, but it's the stuff that's impossible to prove out of a lab, like a premature seal failure, increased engine wear, impaired heat transfer, or any number of other things that contribute to problems, which the manufacturers of stuff like this don't guarantee won't occur and know they can't be proven in the real world anyway. If you've got an oil leak, fix the leak. Products like this only really exist for people who intend to run their rigs into the ground, or want a band-aid to mask symptoms of a problem for two weeks while they on-sell to a new owner.
I certainly have no idea either. My biggest fear was that the oil pressure would be non existent by the time I reached the oil shop, and that bearing damage would occur. Saw it once at work. Not a fun day for anyone. Would have hated if it happened to my cruiser.

I figured that since it had so many good reviews, and after doing research, it would be good for the cruiser. Maybe it caused the problem, maybe it didn’t, but I know I’m NOT trying it again to find out.
 
So, what oil filter did you have on there, and what's on there now?

What fixed the problem?
I believe it was a BOSCH or Mobil 1, can’t remember. New filter seems to be a generic tiny filter. Didn’t get a good look at it.
 
I think the filter should have been inspected for the better knowledge of all. Id be willing to bet money it was a filter failure. I really dont see some leak additive causing half your oil pressure to disappear.
 
I think the filter should have been inspected for the better knowledge of all. Id be willing to bet money it was a filter failure. I really dont see some leak additive causing half your oil pressure to disappear.
I didn't think so either, although one pinned review on amazon explains that one user DIDNT follow the instructions and run the additive through the engine after pouring it. The user also had a "painted" (?) oil pan, and the additive caused the paint to clump up and he lost pressure almost instantly, but I agree. Im just glad its fixed.
 
I certainly have no idea either. My biggest fear was that the oil pressure would be non existent by the time I reached the oil shop, and that bearing damage would occur. Saw it once at work. Not a fun day for anyone. Would have hated if it happened to my cruiser.
For future reference - if you ever think there is a real problem with oil pressure (not with the sender, but actual issue) don't try to limp it to a shop. Turn off the engine and investigate/verify, or get it towed.

I and many others learned this the hard way over the years with various vehicles. The end result as you know is never good.
 
Glad you got it sorted. Seems like maybe the oil filter was more susceptible to malfunctioning due to the additive. Glad you noticed it in short order and got it fixed.

Two key things for folks who read this in the future, and why starting at the filter is a good spot (not only because easy & inexpensive) is that the 1fz has 3 pressure relief valves within the system.

First...read the Wix/Napa thread. Be aware of what some of us have experienced with those filters.

Second, understand the oil circuit in the 1fz; The 3 relief valves are:

1. First right after the pump which, in a high pressure event, recycles oil right back into the pickup/pan/before the pump. (Puts a ceiling limit in place on the oil pressure in the whole system, setting max psi and protecting the oil filter, seals, etc.)
2. Within the oil filter itself. (Accounts for clogged filter media and bypasses that to flow back into the circuit with no (or less) filtration.
3. At the oil cooler (Not 100% certain on this one but I suspect that it is to maintain oil volume sufficiently high and pressure sufficiently low during a cold start when think oil would have a hard time flowing through the fins of the cooler...plus the cooler is not necessary in that moment.

Here's the key (and why its important).

--A malfunctioning oil filter (either due to stuck/jammed anti-drainback valve OR overly clogged media with a malfunctioning bypass valve) will starve the engine of oil and create a low pressure situation. There is no bypass AROUND the filter! There is only bypass WITHIN the filter. Reduced flow in or out of the filter is waiting for damage to happen. --

So...run a filter you feel is of sufficient quality given that if it partially or fully fails...there is no open circuit around the filter to keep the engine alive.

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