Yeah maybe the leak stop decided to fix all the leaks in the filter ( the element pores ).
URGENT- Low Oil Pressure during road trip (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Jhnpv
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Quite possible. I've gone over in my head a number of ways that the filters may fail....
-Fills up media and also gums up the bypass valve?
-The chemical or bad rubber/plastic of the antidrainback valve becomes much more stiff or brittle and won't flex as much to open?
-That same antindrainback valve gets sticky due to some sort of varish type build up where it seals and can't open?
I'm no where close to a mechanical engineer so all just speculation on my part
My x wife learned this lesson the hard way. She was late to work driving down the freeway at 70 MPH when the oil pressure warning light came on. Instead of stopping, she kept going, and ended up throwing a rod right through the side of the block.
When i ask her why she didn't stop when the light came on. She said well, i only had a mile to go to get to work, and once i got to work I'd call you to come look at it. That 1 extra mile turned out to be a VERY EXPENSIVE lesson of why you stop when the oil pressure warning light turns on.
The additive that's designed to "stop or reduce leaks" is typically a potent solvent designed to attack rubber products and cause them to swell (Think petroleum oil on brake component seals) so they become "tighter" and reduce leaks.Quite possible. I've gone over in my head a number of ways that the filters may fail....
-Fills up media and also gums up the bypass valve?
-The chemical or bad rubber/plastic of the antidrainback valve becomes much more stiff or brittle and won't flex as much to open?
-That same antindrainback valve gets sticky due to some sort of varish type build up where it seals and can't open?
I'm no where close to a mechanical engineer so all just speculation on my part
If the seals or filter check valves are already marginal or on their way out due to age can quickly soften and fail (tear or blow out) and can cause issues like this.
There is no substitute for replacing seals or gaskets. There are Band-Aids and emergency fixes designed to get you to safety, but they should only be used in those cases, not because you're too cheap, because in the long run, it's gonna cost you.
If these snake oil products were so damn good, then trucking companies would use them.
There is no substitute for regular PM with quality lubricants and parts.
- Thread starter
- #25
Understood. As I have said in earlier posts, it was probably the scariest drive of my life.
Glad you got it sorted. Seems like maybe the oil filter was more susceptible to malfunctioning due to the additive. Glad you noticed it in short order and got it fixed.
Two key things for folks who read this in the future, and why starting at the filter is a good spot (not only because easy & inexpensive) is that the 1fz has 3 pressure relief valves within the system.
First...read the Wix/Napa thread. Be aware of what some of us have experienced with those filters.
Second, understand the oil circuit in the 1fz; The 3 relief valves are:
1. First right after the pump which, in a high pressure event, recycles oil right back into the pickup/pan/before the pump. (Puts a ceiling limit in place on the oil pressure in the whole system, setting max psi and protecting the oil filter, seals, etc.)
2. Within the oil filter itself. (Accounts for clogged filter media and bypasses that to flow back into the circuit with no (or less) filtration.
3. At the oil cooler (Not 100% certain on this one but I suspect that it is to maintain oil volume sufficiently high and pressure sufficiently low during a cold start when think oil would have a hard time flowing through the fins of the cooler...plus the cooler is not necessary in that moment.
Here's the key (and why its important).
--A malfunctioning oil filter (either due to stuck/jammed anti-drainback valve OR overly clogged media with a malfunctioning bypass valve) will starve the engine of oil and create a low pressure situation. There is no bypass AROUND the filter! There is only bypass WITHIN the filter. Reduced flow in or out of the filter is waiting for damage to happen. --
So...run a filter you feel is of sufficient quality given that if it partially or fully fails...there is no open circuit around the filter to keep the engine alive.
Nicely presented.
I would add that the vast majority of engines have never had the 'Oil Cooler' removed and cleaned. The Relief Valve there is a very fine fit in it's bore and it wouldn't take much to cause it to drag. Also check the spring while you are inspecting/cleaning things....or just replace it.
Many here have not had their Land Cruisers for long periods of time and as such might not know the previous maintenance history of their vehicle. I've had mine for 21 of its 24 years and have done ALL of the maintenance and repairs.....but others shouldn't assume the same amount of care has been given theirs.
When you people from down south go so far as to replace all the hardware on everything could I kindly ask you to send me all your old ones? Thanks.
I guess we should donate our parts/fasteners to our needy brethren up in the rust belt.
We just don't have to suffer with that down here thankfully. I mean....the bolts on mine literally have plating on them still. I will brush the head off on them and dip them real quick in my parts washer (mineral spirits) but I don't spend even 30 seconds on each one (not kidding). Our problem is we get 'Sun Baked'....but rust is not a problem.
Some examples:
