Yeah maybe the leak stop decided to fix all the leaks in the filter ( the element pores ).
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Quite possible. I've gone over in my head a number of ways that the filters may fail....Yeah maybe the leak stop decided to fix all the leaks in the filter ( the element pores ).
My x wife learned this lesson the hard way. She was late to work driving down the freeway at 70 MPH when the oil pressure warning light came on. Instead of stopping, she kept going, and ended up throwing a rod right through the side of the block.For future reference - if you ever think there is a real problem with oil pressure (not with the sender, but actual issue) don't try to limp it to a shop. Turn off the engine and investigate/verify, or get it towed.
I and many others learned this the hard way over the years with various vehicles. The end result as you know is never good.
The additive that's designed to "stop or reduce leaks" is typically a potent solvent designed to attack rubber products and cause them to swell (Think petroleum oil on brake component seals) so they become "tighter" and reduce leaks.Quite possible. I've gone over in my head a number of ways that the filters may fail....
-Fills up media and also gums up the bypass valve?
-The chemical or bad rubber/plastic of the antidrainback valve becomes much more stiff or brittle and won't flex as much to open?
-That same antindrainback valve gets sticky due to some sort of varish type build up where it seals and can't open?
I'm no where close to a mechanical engineer so all just speculation on my part
Understood. As I have said in earlier posts, it was probably the scariest drive of my life.For future reference - if you ever think there is a real problem with oil pressure (not with the sender, but actual issue) don't try to limp it to a shop. Turn off the engine and investigate/verify, or get it towed.
I and many others learned this the hard way over the years with various vehicles. The end result as you know is never good.
Glad you got it sorted. Seems like maybe the oil filter was more susceptible to malfunctioning due to the additive. Glad you noticed it in short order and got it fixed.
Two key things for folks who read this in the future, and why starting at the filter is a good spot (not only because easy & inexpensive) is that the 1fz has 3 pressure relief valves within the system.
First...read the Wix/Napa thread. Be aware of what some of us have experienced with those filters.
Second, understand the oil circuit in the 1fz; The 3 relief valves are:
1. First right after the pump which, in a high pressure event, recycles oil right back into the pickup/pan/before the pump. (Puts a ceiling limit in place on the oil pressure in the whole system, setting max psi and protecting the oil filter, seals, etc.)
2. Within the oil filter itself. (Accounts for clogged filter media and bypasses that to flow back into the circuit with no (or less) filtration.
3. At the oil cooler (Not 100% certain on this one but I suspect that it is to maintain oil volume sufficiently high and pressure sufficiently low during a cold start when think oil would have a hard time flowing through the fins of the cooler...plus the cooler is not necessary in that moment.
Here's the key (and why its important).
--A malfunctioning oil filter (either due to stuck/jammed anti-drainback valve OR overly clogged media with a malfunctioning bypass valve) will starve the engine of oil and create a low pressure situation. There is no bypass AROUND the filter! There is only bypass WITHIN the filter. Reduced flow in or out of the filter is waiting for damage to happen. --
So...run a filter you feel is of sufficient quality given that if it partially or fully fails...there is no open circuit around the filter to keep the engine alive.
When you people from down south go so far as to replace all the hardware on everything could I kindly ask you to send me all your old ones? Thanks.