URGENT ISSUE RESOLVED: (was "Torque specs for (fr+rr) brake job...")

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IdahoDoug

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Torque specs for (fr+rr) brake job...

Rear calipers are not 90, more like 65 or so as I recall. Might want to bleed the brakes if you've got someone on hand for this 8 minute operation.

IdahoDoug
 
cruiserdan

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Torque specs for (fr+rr) brake job...

Rear caliper torque plate x housing 76 lbft.
sliding pins x torque plate 65 lbft.
Lug nuts, steel wheel, all and alloy 91-94 109 lbft
Lug nuts alloy wheel 95+ 76 lbft.
 
Scamper

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Torque specs for (fr+rr) brake job...

:whoops:
My bad...I should have known better, having just recently done the rears...sorry about that. :-[

It's the front calipers that are 90; rears as Dan noted.

Tom
 
sjcruiser

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URGENT: (Was "Torque specs for (fr+rr) brake job...")

Thanks all for replying...Now URGENT ISSUE:

I'm having trouble remvoving the rear rotors at the moment. Looks like the e-brake shoes are sticking to them (Yes, I had released the hand brake). Am I missing something ? Is there any way to realease the e-brake shoes ? I looked through the hole where the rubber plug was and saw a (spring loaded) metal button(?) - depressing this did not help.

Please help (stucked in the garage :-[ :-[ :-[ )!

TIA,
Frank.
 
Gumby

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Torque specs for (fr+rr) brake job...

That little metal button is hopefully the adjuster lever. You push that out of the way to turn the star wheel to de-adjust your shoes.
 
Beowulf

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Re:URGENT: (was "Torque specs for (fr+rr) brake job...")

Frank,
There are two threaded holes in the disk that you can put bolts. You can tighten them alternately to walk the hub off the shoes. As Gumby mentioned, you should first release the e-brake tension with the adjuster star wheel.
-B-
 
landtank

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URGENT: (was "Torque specs for (fr+rr) brake job...")

Check to see if the bellcrank is stuck on. You can do this by looking to the rear of the backing plate where the e-brake cable attaches to the exterior part of the bellcrank. There is a threaded stop with a rubber end on it. If the rubber is not touching the backing plate then the bellcrank is frozen in the on position. Just crab the nearest hammer and begin beating it senseless until the bellcrank has been moved back into the off postion and the rubber stop is touchiong the backin plate.

Be careful using B's suggestion as you can crack the rotors quite easily, so be sure the e-brake is off before trying that.
 
sjcruiser

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URGENT: (was "Torque specs for (fr+rr) brake job...")

Gumby,

Thanks for the pix - extremely helpful at the moment!

Beowulf,

I tried the threaded holes to free my rotors (stucked as rust buildup result) enough for some freeplay - I then removed the bolts and guess what happened ? The rotor get pulled backed in :eek: :mad: - My guess was confirmed by Gumby's diagram that the shoes are the culprit.

Landtank,

Yeepp, I shaked the bananas of the rotors (severly warped, less than 16mm thinkness :eek: :eek: :eek: ) until the shoes gave up hugging them.

Took me 2h30' to do the (less than) 1hr job - :-[

Thanks all!!!
Frank.
 

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