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- #61
Probably in a month or two. Still looking into who Im going to have do it.
Builds Urban Assault Cruiser 92 FJ80 (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter White Stripe
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Are the ones sold on fleabay not correct? There are a couple listers there with glass
Euro clear depo lights for 90-97 but I'm not sure if they're direct fit for the 91-94 cruisers.
thatcabledude
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It’s been years, but actually remember the eBay seller’s name I bought mine from.
“Neondials”
At the time here on the forum there was a lot of discussion of them being gone and I watched that guys “available” number dwindle. When it got to two left I bought. I looked a couple days later and it said something like 50 available.
thatcabledude
GOLD Star
- Thread starter
- #65
After I bought them, about a week later it said they had a whole bunch in stock. I had assumed they were being phased out for the angel eye ones. They fit ok but the bottom bolt flange of the light needs a washer or 2 behind it or else it stetches the flange too much and cracks it. One is cracked now but seems like the light is still plenty sturdy.
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That's them...couldn't give me a straight answer if the lights are for the earlier or later 80 series. Just kept saying they specify there may be some modification needed.It’s been years, but actually remember the eBay seller’s name I bought mine from.
“Neondials”
At the time here on the forum there was a lot of discussion of them being gone and I watched that guys “available” number dwindle. When it got to two left I bought. I looked a couple days later and it said something like 50 available.
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- #67
The old owner installed a aftermarket oil pressure gauge, it works but why not go stock? So I wired the white wire from the back of the cluster to the new sender. I heard u gotta cut down the gm sender housing and drill a new hole and tap it. I got the housing out and the Toyota sender just threaded right in. However my gauge wasn't working still. Turns out my new sender is bad.
I also got some expensive Phillips 194 led bulbs I threw in the gauges. Thinking of painting the needles orange.
I also got some expensive Phillips 194 led bulbs I threw in the gauges. Thinking of painting the needles orange.
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- #68
Well I put a different sender in-still no dice. Spent some time checking it out and did some research. While I was wiring stuff up I think I grounded the gauge power wire a bit too long accidentally. This from my understanding does 1 of 2 things, either heats up the little arm in the gauge until it breaks, or if not grounded too long heats up the arm until it bends to the point that when it's hooked up right it's bent too far to move the needle into the gauge sweep range. So I pulled the gauge from the cluster and my arm was bent. I very carefully bent it back and put it back. While I was at it I painted the tach n Speedo needles. I will do the others when I feel like it. Hooked it all back up and the oil pressure gauge works really well. 
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- #69
Bolted the oem Toyota cruise actuator in. The cable sleeve from the actuator to the throttle body is long enough. But the cable itself is too short to reach the throttle body. So I went to Lowe's and bought some stainless cable then took wheel weights and melted them down to make my own ends like Factory. I've never done this before but watch some videos on YouTube about it so I thought it would be cool to try. First I made a mold out of aluminum for the lead cable ends. I tried wood for a mold but it didn't work out too well. With the aluminum once you somewhat have a casting you can heat the whole thing up with a torch and kind of get it to come together better. The cable I use is just a tad beefier than stock. Here's some pics to show you the process. I'm pretty content with the results I tugged on the ends pretty hard and they didn't budge. I think it will keep a length of spare cable in the tool kit in the truck just in case it comes apart with some screw-on ends to make a quick cable in an emergency.
The hole in the side is where the cable goes into the slug. I then made this into a slot for easier removal out of the mold . I ended up having to make a second mold for the other end of the cable because you basically have to cut and break off a side of the mold to get the slug out .
Here is my little can with the wheel weight inside . Just heat it up with the torch until it melted and then poured it into the mold with a cable inserted into the side .
With a little filing to clean it up it fit into the actuator nicely . The other end still needs some filing to go into the throttle body and I ran out of time for now so I hooked up the Chevy cable for now .
The hole in the side is where the cable goes into the slug. I then made this into a slot for easier removal out of the mold . I ended up having to make a second mold for the other end of the cable because you basically have to cut and break off a side of the mold to get the slug out .
Here is my little can with the wheel weight inside . Just heat it up with the torch until it melted and then poured it into the mold with a cable inserted into the side .
With a little filing to clean it up it fit into the actuator nicely . The other end still needs some filing to go into the throttle body and I ran out of time for now so I hooked up the Chevy cable for now .
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- #70
The previous owner had the exhaust done at El Cheapo exhaust shop. They cut off The Collector flanges and welded the exhaust pipe right to the headers. So I pulled off the headers, the left side most rearward Bolt was snapped off. So I welded a nut to what was left and spun it out. With the headers out I welded some flanges back on.
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- #71
Then I coated in slip plate. This should bake on. The passenger side was much more of a challenge and I had to make a Bend right after the collector. The other challenge was getting cats to fit right after this. I don't have any pictures but the cats fit nicely. I need to order some more tubing so I'm kind of stuck here. It does sound awful mean running off the headers. I'm going to go 2 a half-inch dual pipe into a stock Tundra 5.7 Muffler and 3in single out of that. I want it to be as quiet as possible. The old pipe on the right side was too close to the front drive shaft and was smashed a bit from hitting it. So I was really careful to tuck everything right up against the frame rails closely.
Looking good. Interested to see how the slip plate holds up on headers.
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- #73
Was kinda lazy today so I worked on something easy-mounting the air filter. Still waiting on exhaust parts.
Well I put a different sender in-still no dice. Spent some time checking it out and did some research. While I was wiring stuff up I think I grounded the gauge power wire a bit too long accidentally. This from my understanding does 1 of 2 things, either heats up the little arm in the gauge until it breaks, or if not grounded too long heats up the arm until it bends to the point that when it's hooked up right it's bent too far to move the needle into the gauge sweep range. So I pulled the gauge from the cluster and my arm was bent. I very carefully bent it back and put it back. While I was at it I painted the tach n Speedo needles. I will do the others when I feel like it. Hooked it all back up and the oil pressure gauge works really well.
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What exactly did you do? My 80 has the 1FZE but the oil gauge will read when it's cold, once it warms up the needle just drops. Still has perfect oil pressure using a manual gauge and I replaced the oil sending unit, still does the same thing.
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- #75
The little arm in the gauge gets voltage on the coil on the arm and it moves the arm which makes the needle move. If the arm sender wire gets too much voltage it will cause the coil to overheat and get the arm so hot the arm will sag or break. My arm was sagged so I carefully bent it to fix the sag. To me though it sounds like the coil in the gauge may be bad on yours. I think you can order just the oil pressure/fuel gauge part of the cluster from toyota. It's not hard to remove. Or take one out of a used cluster.
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- #76
Cut out the old exhaust system completely . Working on getting new muffler mounted it's pretty tight.
I can’t really tell from the picture, but it looks like your Panhard Bar goes from passenger side of the frame to the drivers side of the axle? So when your at ride height you should have a little more room on the driveshaft side.
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- #78
Your right. I lowered it down and I have about an inch clearance.
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- #79
Got the muffler hangers tacked in. Also got the driver side exhaust pipe tacked up. Passenger side will be a lot easier.
That looks awesome!! Keep it up.
