uprated springs (1 Viewer)

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Hi all, I uprated my springs on my 1996 80 series. Now drives like a dog. Should I have installed uprated shocks at the same time or does the issue lie elsewhere? Thanks
 
Hi all, I uprated my springs on my 1996 80 series. Now drives like a dog. Should I have installed uprated shocks at the same time or does the issue lie elsewhere? Thanks
Drives like a dog.

Please describe what this means.

To me, being a dog means it's under powered and we all already know that's the case with these trucks.

Is it too rough, too soft, leans to much, bounces a lot, wanders all over, squats too much in the rear, is too high in the rear, or what?
 
Hi all, I uprated my springs on my 1996 80 series. Now drives like a dog. Should I have installed uprated shocks at the same time or does the issue lie elsewhere? Thanks

Welcome to Mud, please update your signature line with your vehicle info and update your first post with some pics. Also, explain what "drives a dog" means on your first post so that we are all looking at the same thing! Let us know which springs and shocks you now have.

A common issue after a spring lift is what's known as a "stinkbug" stance, where the rear sits higher than the front. Maybe you're experiencing this issue?
 
Drives like a dog.

Please describe what this means.

To me, being a dog means it's under powered and we all already know that's the case with these trucks.

Is it too rough, too soft, leans to much, bounces a lot, wanders all over, squats too much in the rear, is too high in the rear, or what?
Thanks for responding Biltame .

I had to replace the shocks and springs all round and was recommended the 15% heavier springs. I've got larger tyres too. It came with those.

It seems to fall into the holes in the road and makes the car shudder the whole vehicle when it drives over them.
 
Thanks for responding Biltame .

I had to replace the shocks and springs all round and was recommended the 15% heavier springs. I've got larger tyres too. It came with those.

It seems to fall into the holes in the road and makes the car shudder the whole vehicle when it drives over them.
What brand of springs, model numbers, and shock brand and model?

What is your intended use for the truck?
 
Welcome to Mud, please update your signature line with your vehicle info and update your first post with some pics. Also, explain what "drives a dog" means on your first post so that we are all looking at the same thing! Let us know which springs and shocks you now have.

A common issue after a spring lift is what's known as a "stinkbug" stance, where the rear sits higher than the front. Maybe you're experiencing this issue?
Thanks Alia for your response. Not sure how to add that info(I'm a bit of a techophobe). I'm driving a 1996 vx pertol. The stance seems fine and cornering good. Going over bumpy roads it seems to fall into the holes and shudders the whole vehicle. Something wrong there. Maybe bad fitting or other components down the line underperforming, maybe? The shocks and springs are Millner Off Road.
 
Can you list the model and part numbers of the new springs and shocks, or list links to their specifications?
 
What brand of springs, model numbers, and shock brand and model?

What is your intended use for the truck?
They are MOR(Millner Off road) Front 15% Stronger Product code: SU0362K
Rear 20% Stronger Product code: SU0320K


I useit for daily to a fro and at weekends in the summer throwing camping kit in the back and towing trailer with bikes.
 
They are MOR(Millner Off road) Front 15% Stronger Product code: SU0362K
Rear 20% Stronger Product code: SU0320K


I useit for daily to a fro and at weekends in the summer throwing camping kit in the back and towing trailer with bikes.
So, since there isn't much detail on those springs, I will assume they are "stock height" springs with additional load carrying capacity.

Heavier springs will make it ride rougher.
Heavier springs will make an unladen truck sit higher and will affect the steering because the alignment (caster, specifically) will be affected. it would be wise to have it aligned.

If you are using the same old shocks, then the shocks will now be riding in a bit different area on the shaft and seals and you may see a relatively short life of the old shocks due to the change.

You could go with OEM (Tokico) shocks since you are at the same ride height. The OEM shocks will feel different from what they were because the springs are stiffer and the frequency of the bounce will be different to that of the OEM shock, however, your unsprung weight (tires, axles) will remain the same. You may find that throwing 200-400 LB of dead weight in the rear will make it feel much better on the ride.

Having a "stinkbug" raised rear will affect the alignment and will affect how it steer. It may feel like it darts all over the road, doesn't hold a straight line, and tends to wander with the slightest steering wheel input. Going the other direction (low rear when loaded) does something similar, but places the caster in a better position.

You may need caster correction plates, bushings, or arms, an alignment, and possibly new shocks.

The shocks primarily control bounce and don't affect the steering really unless one is completely shot.
 
Thanks Alia for your response. Not sure how to add that info(I'm a bit of a techophobe). I'm driving a 1996 vx pertol. The stance seems fine and cornering good. Going over bumpy roads it seems to fall into the holes and shudders the whole vehicle. Something wrong there. Maybe bad fitting or other components down the line underperforming, maybe? The shocks and springs are Millner Off Road.

So, check out the following pics for a tutorial, it's pretty easy!

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1646071270514.png
 

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