Upper radiator hose pressing against engine cover (1 Viewer)

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I'd like to think I'm a pretty observant guy, but today I just noticed today that my upper radiator hose is in hard contact with my engine cover.
Radiator and hoses replaced 10,000 miles ago (12/2019) with OEM, by moi.
Everything appears snugged up and installed correctly.
Surely this isn't normal, and is a recipe for a hose blowout, likely at the most inopportune time??
2006 LX470. If anyone has a similar-aged 100 and can check their clearance and report back, would be appreciated.
Maybe dealer sold me a hose for a diff year?? Is trimming a 1/8-1/4" off the end of the hose an option?

Any advice / feedback greatly appreciated.

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Also, aftermarket upper hoses usually don't bend as sharply as the OEM. If flipping the hose doesn't fix this, then ditch the engine cover!
 
If that isn't an OEM hose, best to swap it out for the genuine thing. That issue will disappear.
 
I've been Trumped and stand corrected.
 
Did you put the hose on backwards? One end is shorter after the curve than the other end. Radiator mounts are secure?
This is the only think I can think of. The longer end is connected to the radiator on my LX. I guess I'll have to drain some fluid and swap it around, or maybe just get (another OEM) hose for a do-over.
 
And...indeed the hose was on reversed. So embarrassing, but it was dark when we finished up. Probably ddn't realize it because we put the cowling on last. A little concerned that the Toyota Super Long Life is looking orange after 10k miles/20 months.

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A little concerned that the Toyota Super Long Life is looking orange after 10k miles/20 months.
Not normal. What was in there before you did the radiator swap 10k miles ago? Looks like somebody ran straight water in it in the past and rust is inside the block. That’s about the only reason I can think of that relatively new SLLC would be orange/brown.
 
Time for a comprehensive coolant system flush and get that crap out of there. Make sure to open both block drains in addition to the drain on the radiator when draining the system.
 
Not normal. What was in there before you did the radiator swap 10k miles ago? Looks like somebody ran straight water in it in the past and rust is inside the block. That’s about the only reason I can think of that relatively new SLLC would be orange/brown
I've had the LX since 2009/24k miles....bought out my friends lease. Now has 136k mostly mall-shopper and soccer-mom miles. Had it serviced only by reputable Lexus master mechanic...strongly doubt anyone ran solely straight water in there. Only thing I can think is that I flushed the heater cores and replaced the T's when I did the new radiator/thermostat/hoses and SLLC install 10k miles ago. Probably some water remained in the system...:mad:. I guess the good news is that the coolant is very clear...just has that orange-ish tint.
Time for a comprehensive coolant system flush and get that crap out of there. Make sure to open both block drains in addition to the drain on the radiator when draining the system.
I am going to flush out doing repeated flushes with gallons of distilled water, running engine w/ the heaters on high, repeat, etc. Once clean, then will put in SLLC or a Zerex comparable. You think opening the block drains is necessary if I go this route?. Yes...some distilled water will remain and get mixed in with the coolant. I figure if my OCD kicks in I can do a few drain/refill cycles with coolant to dilute what little distilled water remains.
 
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I've personally never used it but I know a lot of folks swear by it.

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I’ve used it. It works great. Smells like $hit tho. I ran it through my 100’s 2uz when I bought the truck because the PO had been running straight water, which caused the coolant passages to rust all to hell.
 
I've personally never used it but I know a lot of folks swear by it.

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Thank hoser, I just bought 2 bottles of it, and 20 gallons of distilled water. Planning on beginning the process early next week. Here's a pic of the backside...it says to use 2 bottles for cooling systems over 3 gallons, and the 100/LX with rear heater has 4.06 gallon capacity, I believe.

Also attached is a pic of the backside of a jug of SLLC I just bought. That SLLC container says if you're gonna flush, then flush with SLLC :(. Straight from Toyota...the Mother Ship. Seems to me they really don't want water of any type introduced to the cooling system, unless it's already in premixed SLLC. So...now I'm gonna have to do a cost/benefit analysis with my OCD. At $20/gallon flushing w/SLLC is crazy wonky at $80+ per flush cycle. So...do I consider Zerex Asian at $60 per flush cycle instead?!? I've got 4 of these 2UZ-FEs :bang:

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