upgraded the brake master cylinder on my 72 fj40 with pics

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So the previous owner put some nice willow cross drilled disc brakes on the front wheels and I decided to finish off the brakes by adding a TSM disc brake kit to the rear (rear drums were shot). I should have taken pics of those but oh well. So yesterday I put on a new brake master cylinder b/c the old one didn't work well being that it's designed for drum brakes.

92 toyota pickup 4x4 6 cyl
http://www.autozone.com/R,APP15962/...partType,00007/shopping/partProductDetail.htm
Fenco new / Master Cylinder (Brake System) w/ reservior $64.99 (no core charge)

Replacing it was easy. 4 bolts + lines to removed the old mc. I had to grind down the pushrod 1/2 though to keep the brake pedal from being too high. In all it was a quick replacement but bleeding the brakes took forever. Yes I did bench bleed the master cylinder. I tried bleeding the brakes by myself with a pump vacuum but that was just a waste of time and I went and got help.

Out with the old, anyone want a master cylinder?
IMG_0018.jpg


In with the new:
IMG_0016.jpg

IMG_0017.jpg


I also got a willow proportioning value which really works nice! I didn't bleed the front brakes enough so the rears were locking up. I was able to reduce the rears enough to make my brakes safe temporarily.

I got a heat wrap for the mc b/c the headers really heats things up.
IMG_0012.jpg
 
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sweet, look into a Minitruck Booster if you have issues with the stock one, its alot more compact..

Im so glad i got rid of those style headers! i remember burning my hands on them all the time!
 
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sweet, look into a Minitruck Booster if you have issues with the stock one, its alot more compact..

Im so glad i got rid of those style headers! i remember burning my hands on them all the time!

did you have to modify the pushrod more? What year minitruck did you use?

I also want to get rid of my headers too. Too freaking hot.
 
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Nice job. Now, if your really concerned about safety, loose the compression fitting, double flare the lines, and install a coupling nut.

Yeah I know it's not the cleanest install job but I'm going to get some new brake lines and tidy it up. This all was done in a rush b/c its my daily driver right now.

Is the proportioning valve secured to something other than the brake line?


Ed

No.. I need to mount it to something. Haven't figured out where though.
 
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Be not afraid of the double flare. If I can do it, you can do it.;) The only other comment I would make is to not run your brake line above the master. It can make it very difficult to bleed as air may get trapped in the top of the loop. Here is a pic of mine, plumbed exactly like it shouldn't be done.:doh: But I did get it bled and have a nice firm pedal. I mounted my proportioning valve on the passenger side firewall rib, but it can go anywhere.

GL

Ed

Were did you get the rivets for your transmission hump patch?;) ;) Government issue?:D
4WDB 001.jpg
4WDB 002.jpg
 
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Be not afraid of the double flare. If I can do it, you can do it.;) The only other comment I would make is to not run your brake line above the master. It can make it very difficult to bleed as air may get trapped in the top of the loop. Here is a pic of mine, plumbed exactly like it shouldn't be done.:doh: But I did get it bled and have a nice firm pedal. I mounted my proportioning valve on the passenger side firewall rib, but it can go anywhere.

GL

Ed

Were did you get the rivets for your transmission hump patch?;) ;) Government issue?:D

good point! I didn't even think about doing the lines to avoid stuck air. I did get the rivets from the base hobby shop :D
 

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