UPGRADE to better front DISC BRAKE PADS/ROTORS & Rear BRAKE SHOES (1 Viewer)

[88Retired62]

I’ll be looking at a front/rear brake job in the near future and need your thoughts and experiences regarding upgrades over the OEM parts available. I’m principally referring to replacement parts and NOT conversions to replacement systems from other Toyota vehicles. As you might have guessed, I’m running 33x12.50x15 meats that can always use additional stopping power in urban daily driving environments. It’s not that I’m totally disappointed in current OEM performance. I’ve put myself in that performance range with the tire/wheel combination. Just looking for your experience if other options exist.

 

[Randy88FJ62]

What's your current baseline? How old are the rubber lines in the front and rear going to the calipers?

 

[88Retired62]

BASELINE: Replaced with new OEM calipers, pads, lines, rear shoes/wheel brake cylinders and brake master cyclinder in 2010. Mileage to date is 25,000. Might you be hinting at newer OEM REPLACEMENTS or SS BRAIDED LINES to prevent expansion?

 

[Randy88FJ62]

As long as you are using the stock hard lines I doubt you'd have significant expansion with the oem rubber lines at the rear drums and front calipers. One upgrade I really liked was a modern larger booster.

What does your LSPV look like? I know the rubber cover on mine is rotting out and could use some attention. I plan in installing a manual wilwood LSPV just below the booster/master cylinder. This eliminates the lines going to and from the rear LSPV location and I want the manual adjustment versus the oem load leveling bar. I think for stock height it was great but for offroading I want undercarriage items reduced.

Cityracer has some really nice items:
Brake

 

[OSS]

A properly working OEM brake system will stop a loaded cruiser fine on 31" tires. The problem is 33" tires. Pretty much everything has to be upsized to get the stopping distance back to where it should is be. Gotta remember that the stock tires were 28/29". That's what the braking system was designed around.

 

[Spike Strip]

OEM components, particularly rotors, are the best you're gonna get if you want to remain stock, vs. say, 4runner components. Gimmicks like slotted/drilled rotors are for racy cars.

Properly working and adj REAR brakes makes the most difference, I've found.

I have 33's and I changed to 4runner stuff and it stops great. I used a 1" MC, but if I did it again I'd use a 15/16" for better (softer) pedal. That was the stock setup on a 4runner V6. Why did the 4runner get bigger brakes over the LC?

 

[Morgan Evans]

After a lot of research here on Mud I decided to do the 4runner upgrade and 1" master for two reasons. The brake pad selection for the 4runner calipers is better, and the calipers with the 1" master is a more powerful setup. It's not stock, but it doesn't look bad and it stops just fine. An adjustable proportioning valve might be something I add to keep the rears from locking up quickly in slippery conditions.

 

[60Works]

OEM on Land Cruisers are 'performance parts'. Stock pads have the same ratings as many 'premium' aftermarket.

If your truck is stock and you're planning to refresh the brakes, I recommend staying stock. The '4 Runner mod' will increase caliper and pad size but will not change the rotor. My opinion (and many disagree with me) is that changing the calipers (and matching master) is pointless and forces cutting the heat shield. The rotor is the weak link. It is sized for smaller tires and a 55 mph speed limit.

With an FJ-62 you already have an upgraded booster. The 62 booster is the same capacity as the 4 Runner.

So if your booster is the best available, optional 4 Runner calipers and master offer no improvement, and OEM pads are already 'premium'; you are left with only 2 options:

1) rebuild to stock specs and be content. Done right, its still pretty good even with 33's.

2) swap out everything and do the "Tundra Mod" to gain a larger rotor size.

The Tundra mod requires new hubs, bearings, rotors, calipers, master, wheels, tires, and will change the width of the front axle. It will cost a lot and will reduce the value of a nice stock Cruiser. It does offer modern braking performance sufficient for 33's, higher speeds (not that a 62 has safe handling at 75 mph), and heavier loads. Coupled with an FZJ-80 rear axle, its the best combination we've found so far.

 

[Godwin]

The Tundra mod requires new hubs, bearings, rotors, calipers, master, wheels, tires, and will change the width of the front axle. It will cost a lot and will reduce the value of a nice stock Cruiser. It does offer modern braking performance sufficient for 33's, higher speeds (not that a 62 has safe handling at 75 mph), and heavier loads. Coupled with an FZJ-80 rear axle, its the best combination we've found so far.

Do you know which Tundra calipers to use? With the Tundra mod what minimum rim size is needed, 16" or 17"?

 

[60Works]

Do you know which Tundra calipers to use? With the Tundra mod what minimum rim size is needed, 16" or 17"?

I know they will fit on 17". I THINK they will fit on 16's.

Brake Upgrade - The Tundra Mod

 

[brownbear]

I like the look of the tundra mod. But it's a lot of changing out of components. I also not sure I want a wider front.

I run skinny 235/85 R16, with the Non-Usa but OEM 16' rims. I would not want to do this mod not knowing if my rims would fit.

I re-did my brakes not long back, well ten years ago, but I don't drive much. All OEM. It wasn't long and the rotors warped from heat. SO I agree putting a bigger Master in, and different callipers, but not upgrading the rotor does very little, as it's going to warp again.

Is the Master mod going to an 80 series version a direct bolt in? Even the lines align... ?

 

[60Works]

I like the look of the tundra mod. But it's a lot of changing out of components. I also not sure I want a wider front.

I run skinny 235/85 R16, with the Non-Usa but OEM 16' rims. I would not want to do this mod not knowing if my rims would fit.

I re-did my brakes not long back, well ten years ago, but I don't drive much. All OEM. It wasn't long and the rotors warped from heat. SO I agree putting a bigger Master in, and different callipers, but not upgrading the rotor does very little, as it's going to warp again.

Is the Master mod going to an 80 series version a direct bolt in? Even the lines align... ?

There are a lot of expensive component changes and some desirable part deletions. It's not for everyone.

The master probably isn't a direct bolt in on FJ's in regard to line placement. I haven't tried them. It was a direct fit on my HJ. The 4 bolts are exact on all 60 Series, same gasket p/n. You might call Kurt at Cruiser Outfitters to see if they have experience with the masters. Kurt recommended the Advics p/n BMT-090 when I asked about my specific application. It's quite possible there is a better fit for the FJ's with the same bore diameter. Kurt may also know about fitment with 16" OEM rims.

The wider stance can be completely offset by modern wheels. Being able to run 4.5 or 4.75 back spacing opens up a multitude of choices. It's not so good if you want an OEM look. It does force running 1.5" wheel spacers on the rear axle, which is undesirable. Swapping an FZJ FF rear axle is ideal but, again, lots of expensive components and the (potential) loss of value on a clean stock Cruiser.