...Resolved...Unresolved starting issue (1 Viewer)

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I don't know if you have done this or not. But have you checked CEL code? sometimes even if the CEL light is not on there is usually a code lingering in the memory. If you have a code it could direct you to your problem.
Thank you, I will look into this.
 
What has been confirmed is that the injectors are not firing at startup. The engine will start and run after multiple (3-5) key turns from lock to on and then after this it usually fires up (this is after the starter was replaced). The engine after starting runs great, and the injectors do pulse while it's running, we're having the problem at startup.

Recently a donor ECM replaced the existing original ECM to eliminate the question of a bad ECM. No changes were observed, and it was confirmed that it is not the ECM.

The ignition switch was suggested, but as of now they have ruled that out as being the issue. They have looked really closely at the wiring harness too, since that was moved out of the way when engine was pulled.

As of right now....they are trying to track down what gives the ECM the signal to fire the injectors. They know the ECM makes the injectors fire, but what tells the ECM to fire injectors? They have followed the FSM for this year and model especially the fuel injection schematics.
This symptom is *very* close to another recent 62 starting issue thread, where the culprit was a faulty COR. The AFM/COR circuit needs to be closed to run the pump, and I would assume also let the ECU know to fire the injectors. Perhaps there's a related issue with yours, based on the text I quoted above.

Check this thread & post: FJ62 Idle/Stall Issue - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/fj62-idle-stall-issue.1292870/post-14593969

Best of luck, hope you get it sorted out soon.
 
Thank you, I will look into this.
I don't know if you have done this or not. But have you checked CEL code? sometimes even if the CEL light is not on there is usually a code lingering in the memory. If you have a code it could direct you to your problem.
The CEL is on at start and not on any other time, and there are no CEL codes. Thank you for the tip though.
 
Did you do a new fuel pressure regulator and fuel pulsation dampener? Those two things failing can lead to the symptoms you are having.
The fuel pressure regulator has been checked, we are getting good fuel pressure. Will still check on the fuel pulsation dampener.
 
What Godwin says. I have a 62 and can assure you that you will eventually find and fix this. Frustrating while you are going through it but you will find it!
As mentioned before it is generally the simple stuff. I see you’ve been through the temp sensor, MAF, fuel pump etc. All similar stuff that I went through chasing my issues down. Unlike others, I threw parts at mine without success.
Since the engine was out my bet is that you have a loose ground or wire. Loose MAF connector or EFI ground would be my first places to investigate. Photos below.
Good luck but you’ll get there.

View attachment 3117055

View attachment 3117056
The EFI ground was checked as well as the MAF connection. Thank you for the tip though!
 
Update...We're not getting injector pulse at start up. Similar to what was originally posted. A new distributor was installed and tested and this did not resolve the issue. That part was returned. It seems to me an electrical/wiring or electrical component tied to the starting of the vehicle that is preventing a signal to fire injectors.
My next moves are as follows....water temperature switch at T-Stat housing (grey connector on left side, I will verify this component works like it should, I will see about replacing the four prong connector at distributor (part of wiring harness that connects directly to ECU) and also I want to replace the ignition switch and then look into the fuel pulsation dampener.
 
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My next moves are as follows....water temperature switch at T-Stat housing (grey connector on left side, I will verify this component works like it should, I will see about replacing the four prong connector at distributor (part of wiring harness that connects directly to ECU) and also I want to replace the ignition switch and then look into the fuel pulsation dampener.
Circuit Open Relay was checked by FSM instructions, it checks out, fully operational.
 
- i suspect the pre-owned Thermal Timer switch

- also the grey plug water Temperature switch

- installing pre-owned coming system sensors of any kind is extremely ill-advised , because there simply corroded in place , and the brute force freeing them

kills them internally ..........






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My next moves are as follows....water temperature switch at T-Stat housing (grey connector on left side, I will verify this component works like it should, I will see about replacing the four prong connector at distributor (part of wiring harness that connects directly to ECU) and also I want to replace the ignition switch and then look into the fuel pulsation dampener.


i would check the distributer connect first , to confirm and verify that is is good or bad forst

replacing those 2 housings is NO easy task



- i DO have the repair kit in-stock if you require it , no problem
 
i would check the distributer connect first , to confirm and verify that is is good or bad forst

replacing those 2 housings is NO easy task



- i DO have the repair kit in-stock if you require it , no problem
Thanks, I did check the three connections located within the four prong connector at distributor, they all seem in tact, not loose, not damaged, wires appear in great condition.
 
If you reset the ECU by does the engine fire up how it should?
If your engine starts good after reseting the ECU I wonder if the the O2 sensors are plugged in wrong and the truck is adjusting the AFR for the wrong bank of cylinders
 
If you reset the ECU by does the engine fire up how it should?
If your engine starts good after reseting the ECU I wonder if the the O2 sensors are plugged in wrong and the truck is adjusting the AFR for the wrong bank of cylinders
Thank you @ChaserFJ60, I'll have to look in to how to reset the ECU and I'll also have to verify the the O2 sensors are plugged in correctly, these are two suggestions no one else has made, so I appreciate your reply in this thread.
 
i still strongly feel that the Pre-Owned and installed currently THERMAL COLD START timer switch , and the GREY tip water sensor should be simply replaced and then

confirm and verify if the symptoms remain or are better or totally gone for good ?


i have seen more then one Toyota oem sensor / sender water switch act up , via the FSM symptoms step by steps , yet bench test out fine .......

it does and can happen


matt




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Thank you @ChaserFJ60, I'll have to look in to how to reset the ECU and I'll also have to verify the the O2 sensors are plugged in correctly, these are two suggestions no one else has made, so I appreciate your reply in this thread.
Just unplug the battery for 3 min or so, all power should be off in the truck. Regardless of the O2 sensor location or any other sensor the initial startup should tell you a few things. Be sure to read any engine codes before you reset the ECU.

Because the engine looses all its learned data on how to run the engine when its reset, it goes into a default setting which the ECU knows will get the truck started. It very well may be hard to start after you reset the ECU but if your engine starts better than before the ECU was reset we know that your issue is probably with some sensor giving corrupt or incorrect data.

You can check the O2 sensors and all the thermostat sensors with a multi meter and a temperature reading device.

A bad temp switch will cause running/starting issues no doubt so those are good to check.
If whoever redid your timing didnt follow the FSM and skipped jumping the TE1 and E1 ports then your timing could be off as well
 
Resolved!!!!!
The culprit was a faulty distributor. It was likely the original and according to the technician these usually don't have issues with the mileage it has (188K). The distributor was replaced with one from a donor parts vehicle. You may recall on an earlier post (#12) that another remanufactured distributor was installed by the dealership in their attempt to figure out what was causing this issue. Apparently that one was likely faulty since it did not fix the issue.
I have to give credit to the amazing crew at Overland Cruisers in Belgrade, Montana, just outside of Bozeman, MT. They are absolutely pros at what they do. I would highly recommend them and would not take my Land Cruiser anywhere else.
Thank you to everyone who shared their suggestions on what was causing the issue that this vehicle was having. I hope this will help others in the future.
 
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