Unnecessary Service? (1 Viewer)

[Trist]

I was at the dealership today just to get a new key, but had them take a look at the bushings for me and this is what they said needed to be done. At first glance the sheet was horrifying. When I got home I hopped under the car and saw that the rack really needed to be replaced, did not know what to look for with the diff, tie rod ends and driveshaft, and could not tell how bad the bushings were. What do you guys suggest. I could wiggle the driveshaft back and forth so that it rotated very slightly. Is that a problem? If I need to replace the rear diff what are the most cost efficient options? Do you think that it needs to be replaced? Should I get an ARB air locker? Right now I am just going in to get the rack and tie rod ends done.

 

[camino70]

I wouldn't do anything yet without a second opinion.
Start shopping the parts you think it really needs, buyem and bringem over.

What symptoms are you experiencing?

 

[Trist]

Thats the thing. The only feedback I am getting is just a wobbly steering feel, like a shimmy when hitting bigger pot holes or hitting them at high speeds. Since you are from ATL you must know ACC. I am getting their opinion. They did a lot of work on her about a year ago. I would definitely replace the control arms with heavier duty Slee ones and the adjustable uppers because I am planning to do a 2.5' lift in the future. Therefore I am not even considering having them change the bushings.

 

[nissanh]

If I were you I will get the steering rack and outer tie-rods. Get a lifetime wheel alignment at Firestone for $170ish.

The bushings are normal for the year. If you are mechanically inclined, place a pry bar and try to move the control arm. If it moves easily (looking at your picture I highly doubt that) you need to replace it.

Rear diff backlash: Get the rear diff backlash adjusted from a reputed shop. Or just drive it.

Drive shaft slip yoke needs grease (Moly Graphite). Until you get the proper grease slip-yoke can have a play. How about the U-joints?

 

[AMGAndrew]

Biggest thing, don't panic at the sticker shock! But damn thats a big number! Haha. Wait for these MUD gurus to chime in and help!

"Found steering rack pouring on right side" is the sign of a seasoned tech. Haha. If you're not in the position to change the rack yet, I'd at least try to flush the old fluid with new synthetic and probably add some seal modifier/lucas transmission fix in a bottle (ps uses atf) before having the rack replaced. Clean the area the leaking fluid contaminated and keep an eye on it after the flush. If it's truely pouring, you'll know pretty quick.

Edit: Failed to read that you're having ACC look at it for second opinion. You're in good hands.

 

[JayM]

Jesus Christ! There is a big push a Toyota dealerships for service. Toyota of Bellevue is where I used to work and they were number 3 in the nation for billed service. When I'm pressed for time I let them do some stuff. Last service they recommended some stuff that I had done myself. They recommended my diffs should be done very dirty. Serviced the rear diff last night pulled the plug and still very clean. Wasted 3+ quarts of lube. Long story short trust nobody with a possibility of financial gain that you don't know personally. I know these guys well and will be sitting down with the service manager about a few things.

Nobody will take the care you do. This forum can teach you everything you need to know. Take the time to learn and troubleshoot everything on your list. Ask questions like you are and learn. Doesn't mean you have to do the work but, understand it. You will save thousands of dollars over a lifetime servicing vehicles by being vigilant . I thought I could trust the dealership I worked with and was quite wrong the last two visits. Like the saying goes...want it done right do it yourself.

As for your rack a picture of the boots and does it leave a puddle? They can feel loose because the mount bushings wear.

 

[OG 91 LC]

Not cool.

 

[Trist]

Thanks for the feedback guys. I am about go back to school, I am only back for Christmas Break, and do not have time to change the fluids, nor do I know how to. I am getting the rack plus tie rod ends done tomorrow. I do not know what to look for in the u joints. They looked fine to me and how would I grease up the slip yoke? I am looking at diff shops near me.

Ya I have been seeing a puddle of some type of fluid and when I looked under the vehicle I saw what I thought was just water dripping from the sway bar, but I couldnt see the true source. Believe me, I am not trusting these dealerships. They just want to replace everything once they see one sign of wear just to take your money. My brother has a 04 LX that "needed" $5000+ in repairs today when it seemed to be driving perfectly normal to me. I ended up looking at the tech's notes and told my parents what looked like it actually needed to be done.

The whole right side of the axel was covered in fluid, which I could see was coming from the rack. I am not knowledgable enough to know exactly how bad it is, I am young so I have a lot of time for a lot of learning!

 

[Sandroad]

And WOW on the parts prices. The flag for me was the rear driveshaft. My dealer sold me a new OEM rear shaft for $449. How in the world can that dealer charge $746 for the same part? You should be able to get both front and rear driveshafts for about that price.

 

[studawg]

Wait, so it looks like you took it in for the remote key and to check the bushings and they come back with you need a new rear diff, rear suspension, steering rack and driveshaft for $9000? And its driving fine? Maybe your CVs just need to be done? Id definitely get a second opinion before I took it back there.

 

[WarWagon]

Might as well buy a different vehicle for that price. Ridiculous

 

[medtro]

Not cool.

That isn't too bad. A friend went to Lexus dealer for AC check, got a total of $18k repair estimates.

 

[OG 91 LC]

It reminds me of when I bought my first OG 91 LC. I was clueless about cars and how to fix them. The steering box puked after a few months of owning the truck. I knew of Mud and didn't even post. I went straight to the dealer. Drove out of there a few days later after paying them $2500. That was F'd up.

 

[White Stripe]

The price for the rack is spot on. The outer tie rods seem steep, maybe go to Napa and get some moog outer tie rods and have them installed with the rack. The suspension bushings will last a while like they are, leave them unless some are worse than your pics. Take it to a driveline shop and have the diff fixed and driveshaft looked at.

 

[krice118]

this makes me curious to go to a dealer and see what they "recommend"

 

[e9999]

most of the LCs in generally good shape that I'm familiar with have a visible amount of play in the drivetrain. That is you can rotate the driveshafts a bit back and forth. Like 10 degrees or so, guessing and from memory. It's not like those are supposed to be rock tight, I imagine, that might not even be a good thing. Now if you can push it in or out of straight alignment and there is slop there, that would be another story. (No driveshaft expert here.)

 

[Trist]

The tie rod ends should be a lot less because I think that the $420 is mostly labor, which won't matter since the rack is coming out. Ya the drive shaft only rotates a couple of degrees max and feels very solid.

 

[abuck99]

Aftermarket rear upper and lower adjustable control arms are $500 All 4 combined- and 4 hours of your time to replace. Your bushings are dry and cracked but not broken and the arms aren't bent. Worn bushings simply contribute to driveline play and clunk but it's not critical to repair this week. Options: slee-metaltech- and another mud vendor just started making them @reveesci TrailTailor.

If your driveline(diff-ujoints-propshaft) isn't leaking, vibrating or grrrr, leave it alone for now. Address all that when/after you raise it 2.5" (with your mileage it will require attention).

Unless the driveshaft is bent or dented, or yokes are shot no need to replace: they are balanced and straightened at the time you install the new ujoints. Balance, straighten, repaint $60, new OEM ujoints $120 pair + $40-50 install. Takes 10-15 minutes to drop the drive shaft to take for service. There is a good driveline shop in Norcross to drop the Shaft off to and it will be ready same day. You can check play by pushing up and down or pulling left or right- not by hand rotating. Grease the slip joint and ujoints every 3 mo or at least oil change intervals.

Steering rack quote is acceptable, but you could try and negotiate the price of the parts with the dealer and get a little discount. World will match internet prices on over the counter OEM parts. Also there are sources for rebuilt OEM racks at less than 1/2 the cost of a new one-Fwiw.

Based on that quote, I'll be leary of taking my truck to Nalley (should I need dealer service)

Good luck

 

[Trunk Monkey]

Just as a point of reference, I'm replacing both TREs on Tuesday. Got the ends through the dealership with our club discount, $110 for both ends, then having Firestone put them in for $120 and having it aligned after with the lifetime alignment thing I have on the truck.

 

[JETTIX2]

They're waiting for you to schedule your repair so they can start their new building expansion LOL

I'd run it by a good Indy mechanic and see what they say before I'd spend a dime at that dealership.

I was at the dealership today just to get a new key, but had them take a look at the bushings for me and this is what they said needed to be done. At first glance the sheet was horrifying. When I got home I hopped under the car and saw that the rack really needed to be replaced, did not know what to look for with the diff, tie rod ends and driveshaft, and could not tell how bad the bushings were. What do you guys suggest. I could wiggle the driveshaft back and forth so that it rotated very slightly. Is that a problem? If I need to replace the rear diff what are the most cost efficient options? Do you think that it needs to be replaced? Should I get an ARB air locker? Right now I am just going in to get the rack and tie rod ends done.

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