Universal turn signal and hazard switch? (1 Viewer)

[JB740i]

Rick's Automotive Hardware Store Universal Turn Signal Switch - Black metal Turn & Stop Signal switch

Would something like this eliminate the need to swap in a GM steering column to ease the install of an aftermarket wiring harness?

Seems pretty cool.

 

[joeyg1973]

I had one of those on my old truck. It's ugly as hell, oversized, spins on the column whenever you use it, and it doesn't automatically turn off after the turn. Not recommended. What year is your vehicle? Where are you located? If it isn't too far I could help you out.

 

[JB740i]

I had one of those on my old truck. It's ugly as hell, oversized, spins on the column whenever you use it, and it doesn't automatically turn off after the turn. Not recommended. What year is your vehicle? Where are you located? If it isn't too far I could help you out.

Down here in Florida. I could actually live with all those things if it's equivalent to the GM column wiring and would work with the American Autowire harness. The rest of the rig is no beauty queen anyway.

 

[Zimm]

21 bucks. cant beat that for price.

 

[JB740i]

21 bucks. cant beat that for price.

Didn't think anything of it till you mentioned it. Yep, I looked around the internet and couldn't find anything close. So I've got one coming.

American autowire tech support basically told me what I already knew. That yes, universal turn signs were available. (Since I sent them the link, it was pretty obvious that I knew that already.)

What I'm hoping is to use this to get rid of the factory turn signal and hazard switch. And I think by using some aftermarket tail lights I should eliminate any problems back there too.

Are there any rectangular tail lights that fit into the stock bumper on a '76 that would help with the wiring? Or should I go with some round LEDs installed someplace?


Please feel free to blow holes in my plan here if I'm missing something with my wiring.

 

[Blueegg]

My side by side ATV has one of these or one very simular and it works okay. The signal lights are hard to see (impossible in sunlight). You have to remember to turn the turn signal off. A loud flasher switch would help.

 

[JB740i]

My side by side ATV has one of these or one very simular and it works okay. The signal lights are hard to see (impossible in sunlight). You have to remember to turn the turn signal off. A loud flasher switch would help.

Okay, so I'll have to practice my blank stare for the times when people wave at me that my blinker is on. Gotcha.

 

[Zimm]

my signals in my 72 have worked like that for eons. you get used to it.

 

[Cruiser_Nerd]

And I think by using some aftermarket tail lights I should eliminate any problems back there too.

You'll have to run a different combination light in the back, otherwise the stock amber turns will just be useless decoration.

I run the old Signal-Stat/Chieftan style. Between the dashboard indicators and the indicators in the switch itself, its pretty hard to forget they're on.

 

[JB740i]

You'll have to run a different combination light in the back, otherwise the stock amber turns will just be useless decoration.

I run the old Signal-Stat/Chieftan style. Between the dashboard indicators and the indicators in the switch itself, its pretty hard to forget they're on.

I pulled out the drivers side rear this weekend. One part of the housing was so rusted out the bulb could have fallen out any day. So I'm on the lookout for replacements and open to suggestions.

WHen you say Signal-Stat/Chieftan style is that a company that used to make the signals? I didn't really understand.


OH, and cool doors by the way. Got any more pics of your rig?

 

[joeyg1973]

Why exactly do you want to go with the universal one? Does the one that you have now not work? If you have a connectivity tester ( a light, power, and ground is all you need ) you can figure out what does what on the turn signals. The hazard switch... hmm well that was one that had me stumped when I rewired my old '72 with a painless. I am going to rewire my '71 with a painless and my knowledge of electronics and electricity is significantly greater than 10 years ago so I will figure it out this time. Unfortunately I have no clue when I will get around to doing that part of my build.

 

[JB740i]

Why exactly do you want to go with the universal one? Does the one that you have now not work? If you have a connectivity tester ( a light, power, and ground is all you need ) you can figure out what does what on the turn signals. The hazard switch... hmm well that was one that had me stumped when I rewired my old '72 with a painless. I am going to rewire my '71 with a painless and my knowledge of electronics and electricity is significantly greater than 10 years ago so I will figure it out this time. Unfortunately I have no clue when I will get around to doing that part of my build.

Putting in a new wiring harness. The usual recommendation is to either reuse the preexisting hazard, turnsignal, tail light wiring OR swap in a GM steering column.
But it was all those wires were done by a PO and is a mismatch of wires and garbage. Hence the rewire.
My knowledge of electronics is slightly above amateur. I can follow the diagram and figure out what stuff does but going back and forth between the Toyota diagram and the new one leaves me lost.
Seems like the easiest way to go at this point would be to wire it up like the new harness would like it. And if I can do that with a $20 turn signal and hazard switch then I'm a good bit of the way there, right? Saves hours and hours of frustration just figuring out how to wire it the way they want it and be done with it.

I have no particular atachment to the factory dash hazard switch and turn signals. So why not yank em and make life easier.

 

[Cruiser_Nerd]

WHen you say Signal-Stat/Chieftan style is that a company that used to make the signals?

Same idea, a cleaner look in my opinion that's all. Chieftan

Actually, I mistook your first post for the big clunky Grote one that looks like a black brick mounted on the column.

 

[bsmith123]

turn signals

That Signal-Stat/Chieftan is stylin I like it

A quick search turned up Truck-Lite.com, truck light bought out signal stat--some look okay but not as nice as that

Some signal stat stuff on ebay too

tractor and Semi truck lighting suppliers probably have similar

Any hints on sources for that Chieftan?

 

[JB740i]

Well they say that the signal will ship today. If anyone has any observations about wiring it up, send em on.

 

[bsmith123]

Repairing harnesses

When I looked at the wiring on my 71 it was in surprisingly good shape except where exposed at the ends or at the lights where PO hacked into to it for aux equip. Unless your harness is severly hacked throughout or excessive corrosion inside wire bundles then I'd suggest that it is more expense and work to change an entire harness than is needed for lighting (or pick a sub system) to be completely reliable.

ACCEPTABLE
CRIMP SPLICE - END​

Tubing is tight and symmetrical. Overlaps meet minimum electrical spacing, while providing strain relief. The termination is visible. Conductor(s) exhibit proper bend radius and strain relief.
NASA-STD-8739.4 [19.6.1.c]


I like the style of splice here but in some cases bullet connectors may be more suitable with the advantage of being able to install and reinstall without cutting wires



A sub harness can be made and plugged into the existing wires
or run wires along side the original harness and tie up with waxed string

work fine, last a long time

 

[JB740i]

When I looked at the wiring on my 71 it was in surprisingly good shape except where exposed at the ends or at the lights where PO hacked into to it for aux equip. Unless your harness is severly hacked throughout or excessive corrosion inside wire bundles then I'd suggest that it is more expense and work to change an entire harness than is needed for lighting (or pick a sub system) to be completely reliable.

ACCEPTABLE
CRIMP SPLICE - END​

Tubing is tight and symmetrical. Overlaps meet minimum electrical spacing, while providing strain relief. The termination is visible. Conductor(s) exhibit proper bend radius and strain relief.
NASA-STD-8739.4 [19.6.1.c]


I like the style of splice here but in some cases bullet connectors may be more suitable with the advantage of being able to install and reinstall without cutting wires



A sub harness can be made and plugged into the existing wires
or run wires along side the original harness and tie up with waxed string

work fine, last a long time

I read a lot on here and thought about it a lot before buying the aftermarket harness. After pulling the old harness I'm glad I did. I found at least 1 and maybe 2 spots where I think my battery drain was coming from where the wiring had either melted or wore through.

The rear wiring was a mess of connectors with wires missing and wires folded back and taped off a couple feet from the connector.

The stuff under the dash looked okay when seeing the harness wrapping from the outside. When you open up the tape though it's just a mess of stuff with no clear way to trouble shoot anything. One wire goes to three identically striped wires that then go all over the place.

The whole rig worked for a while. Though the rotors I drove it home on the first time were the stuff that nightmares were made of. The thing has gotten less and less drivable as I work on things to the point where it needs a lot of work now. But it's getting better.

Like the economy, things are going to get worse before they get better. If the wiring had been stock then yeah, maybe it would have made more sense to cut out the bad stuff and fix it. But it wasn't so I'm taking it all out.

 

[bsmith123]

wiring

Of course you go to do what you think is right for your rig;

 

[dogpen2]

Hi, One more option is to delete the factory hazard flasher totally, that makes it kinda easy to just figure out the blinker on the column with just a pad of paper and a continuity tester.The harness work the tail lights.
If you want the four/way flasher option just find a old flasher kit for a 50-60 car. The old four/way just runs one wire to each light and has it's own flasher. It just needs a 12v power source, easy fix.

 

[JB740i]

Hi, One more option is to delete the factory hazard flasher totally, that makes it kinda easy to just figure out the blinker on the column with just a pad of paper and a continuity tester.The harness work the tail lights.
If you want the four/way flasher option just find a old flasher kit for a 50-60 car. The old four/way just runs one wire to each light and has it's own flasher. It just needs a 12v power source, easy fix.

Yep, that's what's shown in the first post.

I'm hoping it'll work with the flasher included on the fuse box and save me a lot of trouble.