Union Joint rear heater riser pipe thing ???? Removal & leaking (1 Viewer)

4runner2FJ60

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I'm having issues removing this piece in order to stop the coolant leak. I don't know the specific name of the part but I know it is no longer available, I plan to reuse and reseal this one. I figured out that i can and have loosened the T portion that leads to the firewall, and the outlet hits the vacuum port. If i can loosen the leaky connection at the head i will be able to remove that T leg and unscrew the vertical part. I do not have any open end wrenches bigger than a 19, and my deep wells cannot reach the thread on the vertical part to loosen it. ANY suggestions would be very much appreciated.
Also what do i use to seal the threads in this location because of the high temps? Thanks in advance.
2020-09-13 15.06.49.jpg
 

OSS

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I believe the manifold has to be removed to remove those heater cooling pipes to reseal their threads. Use Permatex high temperature thread sealant. I might be wrong - but that's how I remember those bastards.
And if the upright pipe fitting hits the lift hook, essentially the whole head has to come off.

You can't just remove those two head bolts clamping down the hook, it could damage the head or cause a leak. And once you start loosening head bolts, they all have to be loosened together gradually, and if that's done it'll surely leak- so the head has to come off and the head gasket replaced if you want to stop the leak in the heater riser pipe (I think)
 
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John McVicker

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^^^
I don’t think the manifold needs to come off. And I too may be wrong. Here’s what I ‘think’ you can do:

1) loosen the tall vertical pipe 1/2 turn or so
2) then you can take off the horizontal pipe w/o it hitting anything
3) then you can unscrew the tall vertical pipe all the way

A bit hard to describe. And yes to the Permatex.
 

4runner2FJ60

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@John McVicker That was my thinking exactly about the process, i just cant get to that vertical pipe to loosen it! I am considering trying to drill out a socket to make it go that 1/2" more, or maybe i can find an extra deep well socket? I really hope the head does not need to come off. Thank you both for your replies.
 

John McVicker

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^^^
I think you can still unloosen that tall pipe enough. Get a wrench on the bottom of the tall pipe...it looks like you have enough room, then put a stout screwdriver in the horizontal pipe and put pressure on both at the same time. Should be able to get the job done. Be stubborn.👍
 

DFXR

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I'm having issues removing this piece in order to stop the coolant leak. I don't know the specific name of the part but I know it is no longer available, I plan to reuse and reseal this one. I figured out that i can and have loosened the T portion that leads to the firewall, and the outlet hits the vacuum port. If i can loosen the leaky connection at the head i will be able to remove that T leg and unscrew the vertical part. I do not have any open end wrenches bigger than a 19, and my deep wells cannot reach the thread on the vertical part to loosen it. ANY suggestions would be very much appreciated.
Also what do i use to seal the threads in this location because of the high temps? Thanks in advance.
View attachment 2434667
I took the horizontal leg off recently when I was getting rid of the rear heater. Do that first. I did it without removing much else.

You can remove the vacuum fitting on the intake to give yourself more room. It is a 12mm up top, which you may be able to get with a deep socket. Underneath the fins there is a 12mm base that you can get to with an open wrench. Just be careful not to bend or shear it, and use a hi-temp permatex sealant when it goes back in. It will free up some room for a breaker or cheater.

The main fitting into the head takes some force to get moving. I took mine off two days ago but I had the actual head off the truck so that doesn't help you. It was tight enough that the 90lb head was sliding around from the force I was putting on it.
 

4runner2FJ60

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Great recommendations. I will give it a shot, many thanks again.
Of course if that air rail had mysteriously gone missing, it would be easier also!
 

NeverGiveUpYota

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@John McVicker That was my thinking exactly about the process, i just cant get to that vertical pipe to loosen it! I am considering trying to drill out a socket to make it go that 1/2" more, or maybe i can find an extra deep well socket? I really hope the head does not need to come off. Thank you both for your replies.
Horizontal comes off first then vertical. Use an adjustable monkey wrench. And take the valve cover off.
 

4runner2FJ60

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Horizontal comes off first then vertical. Use an adjustable monkey wrench. And take the valve cover off.
And why the heck did I not think of taking the valve cover off? I already did a valve adjustment months ago but was reluctant to do the oil gallery hole fix. Maybe i can do both now.

And yeah, I was wondering did they make a SST for this? :rofl:
 

NeverGiveUpYota

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I guess i could ream a hole thru a deep well and weld a bar on the end of it.
Your trying to pull the whole thing? I’ll really be the mean one... it ain’t happening w/ all that s*** in the way.... the lower one needs to come first. Grab w/ an adjustable monkey wrench and hold off the other w/ channel lockers. But again, too much stuff... I honestly feel strongly you don’t have the space even w/ the valve cover off.
 

NeverGiveUpYota

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Once you get everything out of the way.... you need a few inches all the way around if you logically consider the turning ratio of the horizontal section and THEN the vertical.... use these w/ a stretch of pipe gently for extra leverage on the wrench.

image.jpg
 

NeverGiveUpYota

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And btw, those are softer metal so you do need to go easier on them. If they go out of round have a blast making them round again. Very similar to the upper section of heater pipes.
 

4runner2FJ60

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I gonna go for it. Lots of things to try. My last attempt before starting the thread was a plumbers faucet wrench with a pipe attached to the handle. It bent the handle. But the wrench fit in there like a glove, i had high hopes. Thanks for the pics, we'll see what happens.
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