Understanding Keys (aka what spare do I buy) (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Sep 24, 2017
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Location
Minnetonka, MN
I have a fifth hand 98 LC 100, with 282k
The key sets I got on purchase are dodgy at best.

I have
1 Ignition key with a built in fob. It will make the little red symbol flash on the display when taken out and it will start the truck
It WOWNT open the door locks
It WOWNT do anything at all with the fob functions. (Keyless lock/unlock/panic etc)

2 Key is just for front doors,and it will UNLock
Them only. Wownt lock doors.

Dealer service history from 2014 shows last owner cut a new ignition key at dealer- but if so I'm confused why it wownt remote lock/unlock


Really wanting at least a spare set of keys, and the 'walk mart $59 key thread' sounds good. But wondering if I'm missing something on getting the keyless functions
Tonwork first.
THX
 
Have you tried changing the battery in the fob? It's a "1616" size watch battery.

Also for secondary keys, Beno on here can set you up with oem Camry keys for less than the Walcrap key.

I just re-read your post. So the fob key won't unlock your doors at all? Even manually in the lock? And the door key won't start the truck? Sounds like someone swapped some stuff around at some point...
 
Correct;

I just re-read your post. So the fob key won't unlock your doors at all? Even manually in the lock? And the door key won't start the truck? Sounds like someone swapped some stuff around at some point...

I've been hesitant to try anynprogtamming, afraid I might somehow loose what I already have.
 
I think I have your solution.
I had the original master that didn't work as a remote and the blade was broken off but the chip did work and was recognized as the master, I also had one valet key that would open the doors and start the car.

Buy a new master on Amazon for $24.99
Just search your year land cruiser master key. There are many available.

Go to hardware store and buy a basic metal key with no chip, have it cut to match the key that will open your door. Also have your new master cut.

Attach your old master fob to your new chip-less key (I used a rubber band) so the car recognizes the master but has a key that fits and will turn the ignition.

Go through the process for "reprogramming a new master". It's listed in here many times.

Then go through the steps for reprogramming the remote and you will be in business!

It seems like a silly amount of steps but it works.
 
The starting and remote function programming are separate. I'd try the remote entry programming.

Do the cuts look the same?

I'd get some key lube and work the locks, I have a feeling they'll work.

If you only have one master, I'd strongly suggest programming or getting another one. You don't want to be without a master key.
 
Here’s a video of how to program the remote operation manually if you have weak door locks.

 
Checking back, watching the 'remote ptogramming' instructions, I see the first step is to LOCK the door from the outside with the Master.
My master wown't lock or unlock the outside locks. No matter how hard, soft, or jiggly I try. They're different keys all togheter.


Wondering if just getting a separate spare for each is easier?
 
If I understand you correctly, I think I have the same issue with a spare I have. My key (cut at Home Depot) has the transponder and works fine in the ignition after I programmed it (opening the door closing the door, key in, key out etc) but doesn't unlock the car doors for some reason, even though they were never re-keyed and the original key (Yotatech!) does both. Surprised/annoyed me when I wanted to use it once when I left my keys at the office.
 
Is the lock cylinder on the passenger side or the tailgate the same or will your key work them?

Someone may have replaced either the ignition cylinder or the door lock cylinder.
 
Dwight you're correct.

In 2015 the Dealer replaced the Master Key and a new Ignition Cylinder. So the ignition key and cylinder are one Key, the locks are all a different key.
AND, the tailgate doesn't work with any of the keys....it's a mechanically sound truck, this is the only head scratcher I have so far.
 
You may can try using your second key to unlock the door and then use the key you are trying to program for the rest of the sequence. That may work...

Have you read through this thread?
Programming a master or valet key


The rear tailgate relies on the electric door lock actuator to unlock the hatch. If you replace the actuator motor, that should fix it.

Rear hatch lock actuator repair
 
Dwight
Watched the video and it was as very helpful. Then I get to the part where you programme the remote and I just can’t get the car to ‘take’ the remote lock/unlock sequence.
So the car will act like it’s programmed (locks flock back forth) but the fob doesn’t work to lock unlock

I’ll research more. But wonder if there’s something I missed.
 
Dwight
Watched the video and it was as very helpful. Then I get to the part where you programme the remote and I just can’t get the car to ‘take’ the remote lock/unlock sequence.
So the car will act like it’s programmed (locks flock back forth) but the fob doesn’t work to lock unlock

I’ll research more. But wonder if there’s something I missed.
I had to go through the sequence a couple of times before I got it right. Something about holding the lock/unlock buttons then the lock button didn’t work for me the first time. But it did work the second time I tried.
 

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