It's not bad at all, you need something like this
Amazon product ASIN B07QW9YY6Y
You just drill a small hole near where your cabin filters or (or where they should be), and spray this stuff in there while running the A/C and blower on high.
Under-hood blower motor. (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Pskhaat
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It's not bad at all, you need something like this
Amazon product ASIN B07QW9YY6Y
You just drill a small hole near where your cabin filters or (or where they should be), and spray this stuff in there while running the A/C and blower on high.
Is your 80 and 100 got the same exterior paint?
Color of the paint makes a big difference.
My 80 is white, 100 is silver.
yeah, it could be, but I’m saying my 100 AC works great. Lot’s of folks have issues with the 80 AC and underhood temps, hence all the fan clutch mods, hood mods, and aux fans.
it’s not an inherent issue with the 100, it sounds like your system is struggling somewhere.
Well this will help with the additional cabin volume of the 100 series. 
You will look a little nuts doing it, but I can attest that it is very effective at cooling the interior down quickly. I usually roll the driver window down and open/close the passenger door.
You will look a little nuts doing it, but I can attest that it is very effective at cooling the interior down quickly. I usually roll the driver window down and open/close the passenger door.
^^^^
And I'm saying mine does too, but it starts out with more heat load than my 80 series (more cabin space, more exterior surface area, more glass means more solar gain, better insulation....all of this becomes heat soaked). I can have pretty much identical interior temps, BUT the LX requires more BTU output to address the total heat load. Once it cools down...it works a bit better than my 80 series...but I am saying unequivocally its takes longer to do so.
And again, both of my units are in good working order. Both have modded fan clutches, both have Aux fans (condenser fans), both have newer (and clean) condensers and evaporators. I charged the units myself and fine tuned the refrigerant charge to find the point where I am getting the best vent temps. Neither of my A/C units are 'struggling'. Like you, I live in a hot climate, only I have humidity to deal with as well. So having an A/C system work as well as it can....is paramount.
My 80 series is Moonglow Pearl and my LX is Smoky Topaz Mica.....so not a lot of difference there as opposed to darker paint colors. I've seen 140°F + interior temps in both vehicles in the summertime (both sit outside). Rolling down the front windows and opening the rear vent windows for the first minute of driving will evacuate a lot of the heat in the LX and is easily done. I take the time to do that, but the wifey doesn't (messes up her hair, you know).
^^^^
And I'm saying mine does too, but it starts out with more heat load than my 80 series (more cabin space, more exterior surface area, more glass means more solar gain, better insulation....all of this becomes heat soaked). I can have pretty much identical interior temps, BUT the LX requires more BTU output to address the total heat load. Once it cools down...it works a bit better than my 80 series...but I am saying unequivocally its takes longer to do so.
And again, both of my units are in good working order. Both have modded fan clutches, both have Aux fans (condenser fans), both have newer (and clean) condensers and evaporators. I charged the units myself and fine tuned the refrigerant charge to find the point where I am getting the best vent temps. Neither of my A/C units are 'struggling'. Like you, I live in a hot climate, only I have humidity to deal with as well. So having an A/C system work as well as it can....is paramount.
My 80 series is Moonglow Pearl and my LX is Smoky Topaz Mica.....so not a lot of difference there as opposed to darker paint colors. I've seen 140°F + interior temps in both vehicles in the summertime (both sit outside). Rolling down the front windows and opening the rear vent windows for the first minute of driving will evacuate a lot of the heat in the LX and is easily done. I take the time to do that, but the wifey doesn't (messes up her hair, you know).
I mixed you up with OP. This is why drinking and posting late at night isn't ideal
That said, you are right, heat soak is the issue and no amount of under hood cooling is going to change it.
I mixed you up with OP. This is why drinking and posting late at night isn't ideal
That said, you are right, heat soak is the issue and no amount of under hood cooling is going to change it.
Well....somebody's got to do it, right?
In all my cars, tinted windows has made the biggest difference (assuming everything is already working correctly).
If you're concerned with shutdown temps, I agree with AlpineAccess, get a turbo timer. There's a reason so many people use them in highly modified cars that produce a crap ton of heat (turbocharged rotaries produce an INSANE amount of under hood heat).
Also make sure all your belly pans are fastened in place, they make a huge different to airflow to your heat exchangers (at speed). On forums for other cars I've seen people go to great lengths to seal off the area between the grill and the radiator so no air can get around the rad; everything from using adhesive-backed foam strips to plug little gaps, to fashioning their own sheetmetal barriers to replace the plastic factory stuff.
If you're concerned with shutdown temps, I agree with AlpineAccess, get a turbo timer. There's a reason so many people use them in highly modified cars that produce a crap ton of heat (turbocharged rotaries produce an INSANE amount of under hood heat).
Also make sure all your belly pans are fastened in place, they make a huge different to airflow to your heat exchangers (at speed). On forums for other cars I've seen people go to great lengths to seal off the area between the grill and the radiator so no air can get around the rad; everything from using adhesive-backed foam strips to plug little gaps, to fashioning their own sheetmetal barriers to replace the plastic factory stuff.
This. On the interior of your car you're essentially fighting every single surface and material becoming a small panel heater. The radiation of your dash, panels, seats, etc is really there the issue if the temp at your A/C vents is where it should be. (What is your vent temp btw?) I've had cars with black interiors that were so hot when I got inside, it took 20m of driving around to bring the internal temp of the car under control. My 100 has tan interior and isn't nearly as difficult to cool down. The interior color makes a huge difference, the only other thing you can do is try to limit the amount of energy absorbed by your interior, and/or vent the interior. I always crack my windows during the summer while parked, when practical.
