Ultimate FJ62 Stumble/Hesitation head scratcher (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Jul 26, 2011
Threads
9
Messages
22
Location
1988 FJ62 Portland, OR
Ok boys and girls..here goes. '88 62 with 250k. Has run great for the last 4 years I've had it. Started having some slight hesitation after startup last year but would quickly smooth out. Most recently though it got really bad after having the radiator replaced, front axle rebuild with brakes done with new master cylinder, new cap and rotor, new plug wires and plugs and new side cover gasket. Here is what's happening and what I've done to try and remedy. First off, it is not giving any codes.....It starts up after a few cranks and gets fuel ok. It idles rough and coughs, sputters when giving it throttle. After either going down the road or working at it until it warms up it eventually smooths out and runs ok, not great as far as power goes but ok. This happens any time after its been off and sitting for even a few minuts. I have an in cab vacuum gauge and after it has smoothed out it idles right at 15. When accelerating in 1st gear vacuum drops to zero and that's not mashing the pedal, that just being gentle. At higher rpm when cruising, but no throttle it sits at 20. I can hold the rpms at standstill at 2500rpm for 15 seconds and the needle sits at 20 then jumps to 25 after pedal release and back to 15. This would indicate that it's not a clogged exhaust by most standards. After reading other posts, I was convinced that it was either the fuel pressure regulator or collapsed sock at the fuel pump. Replaced both as well as fuel filter. Tested MAF, water temp sensor, ISC per FSM and all check out ok. Removed throttle body and cleaned. Bench tested and adjusted TPS per FSM. Cleaned and tested cold start injector. EFI relay works. Tried swapping in a new ECU per FSM after testing all connections and everything checked out. One possibility was maybe somehow the neutral safety switch could be affected since putting new shifter bushings in at same time of radiator replacement etc. I have heard that the ISC can test ok on the ohms, but still not be functioning. Next step is to pull it and test that it is actually functioning. After that will be injectors...If anyone has any other suggestions I would love to hear it. Thanks all!
 
That sucks, i would advise you to go back to basics before going for the electronic stuff. First check fuel pressure and any fuel contamination, check all the intake hoses for any split that would bypass air behind the MAF also check for vacuum leaks. Inspect all spark plugs and check compression while you are there check your distributor cap for any carbon tracking, check timing.
 
Fuel Filter?
 
Thanks for the input. Should've mentioned that the gas tank was drained, so no water and timing is right on along with no vacuum leaks to be found. Fuel filter was replaced as well.
 
Check fuel pressure and volume.
 
Stumbling at low rpm or start up would indicate a small vacuum leak. Check for a crack on the intake hose after the air cleaner and before the intake/MAF. The crack can be hiding under the smaller hose that intersects the main flow.
 
Thanks Randy, I've sprayed carb cleaner over every inch and can't find anything. It will start up and idle fine at cold start in the morning and will happily sit at 15hg. It's only when I give it gas that it starts to get upset until its up to temp. I'm going to take a break from trying to diagnose this for a minute, I can't wait to finally get to the bottom of this and post a solution. I'm really hoping that it's not internal. Need to do a compression check, if only I could find my gauge. No more loaning tools to friends!
 
EGR stuck open?
 
they can stick open...try tapping it persuasively with the handle of a screwdriver while idling...you should have more than 15" at idle unless you are very high...
 
they can stick open...try tapping it persuasively with the handle of a screwdriver while idling...you should have more than 15" at idle unless you are very high...might try removing and cleaning the EGR valve if no action with the screwdriver...
 
they can stick open...try tapping it persuasively with the handle of a screwdriver while idling...you should have more than 15" at idle unless you are very high...might try removing and cleaning the EGR valve if no action with the screwdriver...
 
they can stick open...try tapping it persuasively with the handle of a screwdriver while idling...you should have more than 15" at idle unless you are very high...might try removing and cleaning the EGR valve if no action with the screwdriver...
 
holy mudglitch Woody...
 
holy mudglitch Woody...
Hahaha,,I actually do have more than 15, more like 17. Just drove it to work. At start up it idles just fine. Best case scenario is a bad sensor causing this even though everything I've checked out so far it to spec per the FSM for ohm readings. I haven't checked o2 sensors yet, but have new ones ready to install.
 
don't swap parts without verifying they are bad...these rigs are pretty straight forward even tho they can be mysterious sometimes...do not underestimate the power of a stuck EGR valve...or weak egr modulator spring...
 
My stumble was egr, took the small hose off under EGR and plugged both ends. Stumble went away. Still trying to track down a slight miss.

Have you thought about the injectors?

Marc
 
Situation finally resolved! Smelled gas in the cab and sure enough #6 injector had started to leak around the seal. In order to keep down time to minimum I ordered a set of refurbed injectors from atlantaauto on ebay $250. Being the busy guy I am, I had the shop around the corner do the job for $350. Runs like a dream now. Happy to have my baby back purring away. I'm sure a good chunk of the 62s on the road are at or around 250K and should probably consider servicing there injectors before putting on the next 250k. I'll be sending the set of injectors that we're just pulled to witch hunter or Dr. Injector here and have them serviced.
 
go back in there and double verify its not the fuel pressure pulsation damper that is leaking...it is right above the #6 and is known to leak when the diaphragms go bad... if it was just the injector, then good news, but you should check... x2 for witchhunter...
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom