U-Joints............what are these things made of....? (1 Viewer)

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Confirmed tool :

Tiger Tool U Joint Pullers (Automotive (Class 1-3)) | The Original Inventor | Made in North America​


that will fit and press the old ones out. Just got mine from Amazon. Looking forward to changing mine out when my back is better.

x2 on the Tiger tool if you can spring for it. Made a world of difference in changing my u-joints. Did the front with sockets and a c-clamp and the rear with the Tiger Tool (after fighting the front so much I bought one). No comparison, so much easier to do it with the right tool.
 
I found it peculiar that with all the threads on the when and why to replace u joints, seldom is it mentioned the “how” (tiger tool) to do the job.

Albeit, 90% of the community are hardcore wrenches and may know of this but I learned how to wrench only after I bought my rig

Essentially my land cruiser made me a better mechanic
 
Confirmed tool :

Tiger Tool U Joint Pullers (Automotive (Class 1-3)) | The Original Inventor | Made in North America​


that will fit and press the old ones out. Just got mine from Amazon. Looking forward to changing mine out when my back is better.

Thanks mud! Yet another tool to add to my wishlist :bang:


:lol:
 
I've used the Tiger tool, really nice.
 
Get the C clamp to press the cups back in. So 2 tools now lol .

the tiger tool in almost identical to the dealer sst tool the fsm calls out. Ive been hunting for one on the used market but no one is selling in the 2 years I’ve been hunting sst’s . dont want to pay dealer sst money either lol
 
Yes, I have the complete kit with both tools.
 
Different way to skin the cat! I use our 8" shop vise. Same principle as the c-clamp, but man is it nice having a stationary "press" vs. wrestling it around trying to keep it straight! It allows smooth removal and installation of the cups, and generally gives me more control over the angle of the driving force.
 
My Dad tought me how to change them, about a million years ago, we used a couple different sockets, a big C-clamp and a hammer.
^^^ Same hear
 
EDIT - I used the C-Clamp and yes , this is my first time doing it, i pressed it and ruined a set. A $80 mistake. Noticed some burrs on it, was able to gently file it and then 400-800 last 1500 sandpaper (butter smooth)

Ordered another set. It arrived and started it with the C Clamp to get it started. Then I switched tools and followed up with my 2 pound brass hammer from HF and hammer it in on top of a sturdy piece of block wood. Worked both sides in little by little checking once I got close if and when I can put my C-Clips in. Brass hammer will not ruin the joint or the metal housing.

So nice to be able to grease my joints now. Last mechanic I paid to do this in 2012, put the damn joint in BACKWARDS! (cant grease it when it is done incorrectly)
 
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So nice to be able to grease my joints now. Last mechanic I paid to do this in 2012, put the damn joint in BACKWARDS! (cant grease it when it is done incorrectly)

Dyslexic Mechanic........hah!
 
Why I never go to mechanics anymore 🤷🏻‍♂️
You just need the right one.
Even thought I do 90 present or more of my own work I’m blessed to have a excellent mechanic that knows and owns 80s and land cruiser in general @Shoppy Owner of Nelson’s garage less then 5 miles from me.
Priceless😉
 
I've been using Valvoline Palladium for the birfs, u-joints and slip yokes, but got another grease gun with Valvoline Heavy Duty Crimson (litihium grease) to use specifically on the prop shafts.

Is it OK if a bit of moly and lithium grease mix as I transition to the latter from former? Many thanks.
 
@COYS Here are a couple results from BITOG, hopefully they help

Accidentally mixed grease. How much time do I have - https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/accidentally-mixed-grease-how-much-time-do-i-have.233004/

Moly itself is an additive, and there are lithium based greases with moly, so it depends on their bases. Looks like palladium is a lithium complex, and what you bought is lithium 12 hydroxy, which appears to be compatible. That would be good enough for me to not worry about it!

Here’s the thread which includes the compatibility chart from amsoil

grease that can be safely mixed - https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/grease-that-can-be-safely-mixed.206878/

“Take some of each grease and mix them in a cup. If they stay thick and "greasy", then you're good to go. If they get runny or nasty, then they are incompatible.”

15E53122-8FAB-4D03-A458-29E41859F17E.jpeg
 
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@COYS Here are a couple results from BITOG, hopefully they help

Accidentally mixed grease. How much time do I have - https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/accidentally-mixed-grease-how-much-time-do-i-have.233004/

Moly itself is an additive, and there are lithium based greases with moly, so it depends on their bases. Looks like palladium is a lithium complex, and what you bought is lithium 12 hydroxy, which appears to be compatible.

Here’s the thread which includes the compatibility chart from amsoil

grease that can be safely mixed - https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/grease-that-can-be-safely-mixed.206878/

“Take some of each grease and mix them in a cup. If they stay thick and "greasy", then you're good to go. If they get runny or nasty, then they are incompatible.”

View attachment 3051012
Very helpful. Pushed out Palladium gray with Crimson red grease, but in the slip yoke, I didn't want to over grease it so I'm definitely mixing gray with red there.

Thanks again!
 

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