TWT -- The Wrenching Thread (9 Viewers)

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Purdy!! :steer: muuuuuuuuch better
 
Put 100 on a diet, removed intermediate and belly skids to start restoring the underside. Sold and replacing with aluminum sometime in the future.

The Toyota transmission cross member was a bear to install and the sliders were in the way.

Removed about 130 lbs. those skids are heavy.

Also removed m12k winch. Haven’t used in 3 years. Strange the winch was mounted feet forward and the Arb bumper has no winch cradle. The winch just dropped out. Lost about another 75 lbs there. Made for easy removal and when I add a smaller superwinch in the future it will be easy to install.

This LC is in daily driver mode for a bit.

Need to add extended sway bar links in the front.
 
I just went ALUMINUM on skids for the Taco, @uzj100 .

My pocket book regrets it already, but I don't see us "rock crawling" with it and look forward to saving some weight.

Several smart people have told me ALU doesn't skid well, cracks easily, etc., but . . I'll blame it on Whiskey.
 
Gauges done!!

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Still wrenching. Heater t slipped and then collapsed when trying to put it back together. Thank goodness Fred Anderson had 2 in stock.
 
I wish I could have watched - would love to see how that is done on an 80.
 
Factory fsm says 1/8” toe so assuming 32” tire stock i measured 16” fore and aft and marked the locations as well as the centerline on a couple straight edges. Align centerline with middle of hub and clamp to rotor. Use level to level jig each side. Measure back side, mark to mark. And front side, mark to mark. The difference is your toe. Adjust back tie rod link to get toe set as desired.
 
Factory fsm says 1/8” toe so assuming 32” tire stock i measured 16” fore and aft and marked the locations as well as the centerline on a couple straight edges. Align centerline with middle of hub and clamp to rotor. Use level to level jig each side. Measure back side, mark to mark. And front side, mark to mark. The difference is your toe. Adjust back tie rod link to get toe set as desired.

that's how i do it.
 
I do it with two push pins and a tape measure. I don’t even pull the wheels off. Put the pins in the tread at the front of the tire. Measure. Back up truck until push pins circle around to the rear of the tire. Measure. Subtract the difference. Tah da! Not as accurate, but my method works fine for me. No issues so far.
 
I had the push pins out for backup ;)
Thts how i had done it in the past.
 
I'll do you one better. Measure from inside shoulder lug on the tire to inside shoulder lug on the other tire, where the sidewall tread meets the road tread. Eyeball center height. Rotate tire 180*, eyeball again. :hillbilly:

The bar stock trick is the bees knees, just requires tire removal. No bueno for lazy people :lol:
 
Useless knowledge of the day....That's one of the two reasons why nascrap cars have bullet shaped cups on their front and rear hub assemblies. 1. Is to help slide the wheel onto the hub easier, and 2. Its so they can measure toe by sliding a bar over them.
 
I'll do you one better. Measure from inside shoulder lug on the tire to inside shoulder lug on the other tire, where the sidewall tread meets the road tread. Eyeball center height. Rotate tire 180*, eyeball again. :hillbilly:

The bar stock trick is the bees knees, just requires tire removal. No bueno for lazy people :lol:

Hows that work on your swampers? :)
But agreed. However then math is involved lol. And maybe a second set of hands to pull tape tight over 5’. 1/8” toe on edge of a 35/7 wont be the same as 1/8” toe for a 31/2” tire. Plus tires were off for tie rod ends and i was half way there.

All that said i Feel i could use a little more and ill probably measure as you described for the adjust.
 
Well not on a cruiser but had to get George setup properly to be able to work on his trucks so a few hours over last two nights set him up with this. Not a bad first work surface!

When not in use folds up against wall.

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nice but, no workshop is complete without safety glasses.
 
Real time help. I’m in the process of replacing the alternator on the 80 and I am having a hell of a time getting the new alternator back in the bracket that holds the top bolt. Any tips or tricks?
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