two quick AC questions (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Jun 12, 2011
Threads
224
Messages
6,067
Location
Kansas
So I've been fighting my AC for a few weeks now. It was initially low on charge, I put it to 2.2x ambient air temp on the high side. About a week later we are back to blowing semi-cool air on hot days. I began to suspect the Shrader valves as I noticed some bubble next to the high side when I take the cap off, also a small whoosh of gas escaping. I confirmed with the sniffer, so I am going to see if replacing the valves will seal everything up. The questions are as follows

1) Do you just vacuum from the low side ? I've seen guys doing it from L and from H and L when looking online. I will be replacing the valves on both sides.

2) After I vacuuming the charge out I was going to swap the valves which means I will lose vacuum and introduce a little air into the system. Do I need to replace the drier desiccant after this ? If so I think it's actually cheaper for me to order the Denso drier than the factory desiccant pack. What have you guys done and what part numbers have you used ?
 
So I've been fighting my AC for a few weeks now. It was initially low on charge, I put it to 2.2x ambient air temp on the high side. About a week later we are back to blowing semi-cool air on hot days. I began to suspect the Shrader valves as I noticed some bubble next to the high side when I take the cap off, also a small whoosh of gas escaping. I confirmed with the sniffer, so I am going to see if replacing the valves will seal everything up. The questions are as follows

1) Do you just vacuum from the low side ? I've seen guys doing it from L and from H and L when looking online. I will be replacing the valves on both sides.

2) After I vacuuming the charge out I was going to swap the valves which means I will lose vacuum and introduce a little air into the system. Do I need to replace the drier desiccant after this ? If so I think it's actually cheaper for me to order the Denso drier than the factory desiccant pack. What have you guys done and what part numbers have you used ?
You can get tools online (like Amazon) that allow you to swap the valves out without emptying the Freon. HOWEVER - the cheap ones won't work on JIS-standard valves, the valve will be bigger than the bore of the tool. If you empty it, swap the valves, and vacuum it out the same afternoon, you will be fine. Myself, if the system is evacuated, I'll spend the $15-20 and buy a new Denso dessicant bag anyway, unless yours is almost new. It's 10 minutes with a 10mm Allen socket to swap it if yours hasn't been swapped out.
 
You can get tools online (like Amazon) that allow you to swap the valves out without emptying the Freon. HOWEVER - the cheap ones won't work on JIS-standard valves, the valve will be bigger than the bore of the tool. If you empty it, swap the valves, and vacuum it out the same afternoon, you will be fine. Myself, if the system is evacuated, I'll spend the $15-20 and buy a new Denso dessicant bag anyway, unless yours is almost new. It's 10 minutes with a 10mm Allen socket to swap it if yours hasn't been swapped out.

Where are you getting the Denso desiccant for that price? Do you have a part number?
 
Screenshot_20190726-145242.png
 
Just my experience.. but these rigs are old, and unless you've replaced your condenser in the recent past.. run your finger lightly on the condenser fins. They'll likely be brittle and fall apart. In terms of pressure, the best route is to vacuum out, leak check, and add the recommended amount of 134a back into the system. I replaced my compressor, front evap, low pressure port, and it still wasn;t right even with the correct pressures. It wasn't until I replaced the condenser that things started to work the way it's supposed to- once the condenser was removed, the fins were very brittle and there was actually oil in hidden places (even though the leak check was negative). After letting the old condenser sit out for a couple days, some fluid leaked out and it looked like it was contaminated. My opinion is that it was the deteriorated condenser (of course the LAST part I replaced). Now, it's blowing 40 at the vent on these hot summer days in FL when moving and gets to 45-47 in traffic once the hot air is exchanged through the recirc.
 
Just my experience.. but these rigs are old, and unless you've replaced your condenser in the recent past.. run your finger lightly on the condenser fins. They'll likely be brittle and fall apart. In terms of pressure, the best route is to vacuum out, leak check, and add the recommended amount of 134a back into the system. I replaced my compressor, front evap, low pressure port, and it still wasn;t right even with the correct pressures. It wasn't until I replaced the condenser that things started to work the way it's supposed to- once the condenser was removed, the fins were very brittle and there was actually oil in hidden places (even though the leak check was negative). After letting the old condenser sit out for a couple days, some fluid leaked out and it looked like it was contaminated. My opinion is that it was the deteriorated condenser (of course the LAST part I replaced). Now, it's blowing 40 at the vent on these hot summer days in FL when moving and gets to 45-47 in traffic once the hot air is exchanged through the recirc.

I was looking at the condenser the other day and wondering if it was starting to get old and plugged up. I was able to get cool air while moving down the highway but not so much around town. However, the shraders are definitely leaking, so I'm going to try just replacing them and see if i'm in business. For future reference do you know what part number you used for the condenser?
 
Hey, sorry for the long reply. The part number is Denso 4770603 (w/ rear air), and is 133.00 on Rock Auto. Comes WITH the new Drier in there already. Make sure you have rear air selected, I made that 100.00 mistake.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom