Twin stick install, tranny hump removal required?

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I feel like i know the answer, but I have the VA air conditioning installed with a new drier and I just removed the passenger seat to install a new fuel float and put it back together.

Do you think I can install the AA twin sticks without removing the transmission hump?

Wow I'm lazy
 

1911

chupacabra
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My AA twin sticks fit in the stock (12/79) tranny hump opening just fine; did not remove hump to install:

IMG_0699.JPG
 
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I am curious how does the high low lever work on 4/75+ cruisers where the lever points forward? Does the kit include a special lever to point it to the side. That would seem to be the hardest part to achieve with the cover in place. The 1/79+ only has an inspection cover. Doesn't allow as much excess but can be removed and only requires removing the floor mat to do it.
 
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With the 2WD and the 4WD would you still have to go lock the hubs?
Sorry I'm not familiar with the 2 stick setup.
 
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This is more about getting rid of the Rube Goldberg contraption single stick and getting more positive action. I'm planning on moving to an Orion split case which I heard makes shifting a little more tight. Shouldn't be a problem with twin sticks.
 
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This is more about getting rid of the Rube Goldberg contraption single stick and getting more positive action. I'm planning on moving to an Orion split case which I heard makes shifting a little more tight. Shouldn't be a problem with twin sticks.

Toyota did this for a reason. They did not want the torque of low range only going to the rear axle. Same reason the E-locker is set up to in gauge the rear axle first so the front axle with it's Birfield which makes the front weaker than rear axle. Only reason I see any advantage of 2WD low is in my 68 with Lock-Rights front and rear and manual steering. Leaving the hubs unlocked isn't really a good option. Sometimes when you need 4WD might not be easy to get out and lock half way up a hill. It's happened to me. Just removing the guard does the same thing. Usually no passenger and haven't had the problem of someone knocking it into neutral.
 
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Toyota did this for a reason. They did not want the torque of low range only going to the rear axle. Same reason the E-locker is set up to in gauge the rear axle first so the front axle with it's Birfield which makes the front weaker than rear axle. Only reason I see any advantage of 2WD low is in my 68 with Lock-Rights front and rear and manual steering. Leaving the hubs unlocked isn't really a good option. Sometimes when you need 4WD might not be easy to get out and lock half way up a hill. It's happened to me. Just removing the guard does the same thing. Usually no passenger and haven't had the problem of someone knocking it into neutral.
I think we are missing the popular other reason for 2wd low...parades
 
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POPO AGIE

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Toyota did this for a reason. They did not want the torque of low range only going to the rear axle. Same reason the E-locker is set up to in gauge the rear axle first so the front axle with it's Birfield which makes the front weaker than rear axle. Only reason I see any advantage of 2WD low is in my 68 with Lock-Rights front and rear and manual steering. Leaving the hubs unlocked isn't really a good option. Sometimes when you need 4WD might not be easy to get out and lock half way up a hill. It's happened to me. Just removing the guard does the same thing. Usually no passenger and haven't had the problem of someone knocking it into neutral.
I see you have LocRights in the front and rear. I have bought one for my rear axle build, but was concerned about the ability to turn if I also installed one in the front axle. I will be upgrading to power steering in the build so that will help. The reason I ask I have two Ram trucks one is a 1500 and the other is a 3500 and both have mechanical limited slip rear axles and in 4wd they do not like to be turned tight and crow hop. I don't want that with my FJ.
 
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I hate it in the front axle. Only thing power steering will do is hide the strain it put on the front end. Haven't driven my 68 for a long time (son destroyed the clutch) but going with a different type of traction aid that will be a lot easier on the front end and will not cause it to crow hop. May leave the one in the back. With the one in the front will have two spares for the coarse spline axle in my 68.
 

POPO AGIE

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That is what I thought. I am leaning toward just leaving it open with the upgraded axle shafts. But if I do decide to use a locker it will be an electric locker. I will have drive flanges at all 4 wheels once the axles are done.
 

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pb4ugo

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I see you have LocRights in the front and rear. I have bought one for my rear axle build, but was concerned about the ability to turn if I also installed one in the front axle. I will be upgrading to power steering in the build so that will help. The reason I ask I have two Ram trucks one is a 1500 and the other is a 3500 and both have mechanical limited slip rear axles and in 4wd they do not like to be turned tight and crow hop. I don't want that with my FJ.
Back in the early 90's I installed a L/R in the rear, it was great. Then the next logical step was put 1 in the frt too. I figured I could just engage 4wd/2wd when I needed it. I altered the shift gate for 2wd low. That was a PITA, shifting back and forth all the time. I had power steering, over time when wheeling w/the frt end locked and engaged you could slightly feel it binding up the more and more you turned it on the trail. I could here the P/S pump working harder. No P/S is extremely difficult to get it to turn a little bit. A frt locker will put extreme stress on your stk birfields, if you do anything moderately difficult you have a good chance of breaking a stk birf. Don't turn the wheels and backup. I quickly determined I didn't like the frt end locked all the time. I used to compete in obstacle courses. When locked, it pushes in the turns, cornering sucks. This was a time where Marlin was experimenting with Marfields with no success. I ended up narrowing a dana 44 and went ARB in the frt. Use it when you need it. I'd recommend an ARB or selectable locker in the frt and alloy axles/birfields. Then consider upgrading to big pattern knuckles with hardened studs.
 
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