Turning axles needed for SOA...

Discussion in '40- & 55-Series Tech' started by Guest, Mar 19, 2003.

  1. Guest

    Guest Guest

    I plan on doing a spring over and PS conversion late this summer. I'am just trying to brainstorm my future plans. The main question i have is do i really need to cut and turn my axel housing? Iam going to run the stock springs and hope to run 35" tires. About how many degrees will i need to turn them?

    I also would like to keep my axels in stock location which requires adding on 1.5" to the ends of frame rails right? What is the best way to add the 1.5" in conjunction with mounts for a power steering bracket and shackle reversal? Should i box the frame rails? &nbsp:Do i have to relocate shock towers in this case?

    If i dont decide to add 1.5" to my frame rails but go with a shackle reversal what location will it put my axle at, if i flip the springs around end to end then where will it put my axle? What are the benifits associated with these diffrent axle locations. Will i have to relocate shock towers?

    I'am looking for a set up that is confortable to drive daily but is good for some heavy off roading when needed.

    sorry for all the questions,
  2. woody

    woody unhelpful spotter Staff Member Admin

    Likes Received:
    Jan 15, 2002
    Toquerville UT
    cut-turn is "generally required" for shackle reversal, optional but recommended for standard front shackle setups. you rotate the knuckles back about 12-15 degrees....10-12 for the pinion to point up, the balance to add 1-3 degrees of additional positive caster to assist in the tracking and steering of larger/wider tires.

    if you don't do the shackle reversal, then nothing changes and no frame work required. If you DO the shackle reversal then you leave the springs in their stock orientation, long side forward, short side rearward, and you reverse/recenter the 2nd/military leaf. (without studying your springs/front suspension, it gets a bit confusing....)

    generally, flipping a set of springs end for end adds 3.5" of wheelbase (per end, rears can add an additional 3.5" wheelbase) and you should be able to simply unbolt the shock tower pin, trim some sheet metal, reinstall the pin, and the shock will bolt up. I recommend longer towers tho, like the Ford PN noted in the Cruiser Facts section for longer travel shocks.

    Longer wheelbase = better ride and better hill performance. Shorter wheelbase = rougher ride and better breakover angle

    I'm about 96" now, going to 97-98" one of these days, and really like it....some people are as long as 104-112", some at the stock 90". All depends on how far you want to get into it...

    Hope that helps...anyone else?
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