Turning a barn into a shop, need help stopping drafts (1 Viewer)

[Landcruisin'60]

I'm in the process of turning my grandfathers barn/shop into a usable space. Its basically an 18x36 2 level barn with a slab floor. I've run the electrical and installed a wood stove, but now I've gotten to the part I was dreading. Its way too drafty to even hope to heat it in its current state. But I dont really want to spend the money to insulate it and put up wallboard right now. I dont feel comfortable wrapping the inside with plastic due to sparks from welding and grinding. I'm trying to figure out if there's any inexpensive way just to put some sort of barrier on the inside walls to stop the draft and create an airspace between it and the siding that should in theory help insulate. I was wondering if tar paper would work. Or if anyone had any good ideas. I priced it out to be around $600 to drywall the whole place.

Thanks

 

[PAToyota]

I'd be concerned about sparks "sticking" in tar paper too...

What is the wall construction?

 

[Landcruisin'60]

The walls are non-load bearing 2x6 construction. The studs are anywhere from 23 to 27 inches on center.

 

[PAToyota]

What is the exterior sheathing? Board and batten? Horizontal plank? I'm trying to get an idea on construction to advise on sealing the leaks.

 

[Landcruisin'60]

The siding is a horizontal ship lap style. It was harvested off another barn. So not only are there some cracks where the ship laps overlap and meet. But also some of the planks have cracks in them and holes where nails used to be. Along with holes where knots have fallen out.

I have a feeling the only way out of this is putting up plastic between the studs then insulation and a either drywall or OSB.

 

[Cuerno Largo]

I did the same thing in a dairy barn on my property that was built in the 30's. About the same size and with the same framing and siding that you describe. I ended up removing the siding, putting up OSB with tar paper, insulating, then putting up wood panel on the inside. Roofing metal for ceiling with blown insulation on top. No drafts when done. Stayed warm in winter with propane heater and cool in summer with a window unit A/C, but sounds more than what you are wanting to get into.

 

[PAToyota]

I ended up removing the siding, putting up OSB with tar paper, insulating, then putting up wood panel on the inside.

Pretty much this. From what it sounds like, you're going to get moisture into the wall if you try to seal it up and insulate it. You really need to weatherproof the outside (tar paper and sheathing) before you do anything from the inside.

 

[LK1]

Not an expert but what about closed cell foam insulation? You should't have to redo the outside siding and it will close up any air leaks.

 

[Landcruisin'60]

I may just put up OSB on the interior to seal it. The biggest thing is getting the place air tight with something thats not going to melt or burst into flames from some sparks hitting it. Basically I'm trying to get through this winter as inexpensively as possible and hopefully be able to move into a larger shop in a year or so.

 

[snobdds]

I would think the weather would still get to the foam and degrade it over time. Actually this was my first thought too until he mentioned the outside is not air tight. That needs to get addressed and then I would spray foam it, which would create both a vapor barrier and insulate it at the same time.

Spray foam is the way to go, I am sold on the stuff.

 

[angerhater]

here is a neanderthal idea...it will seal the holes, it is fireproof and cheap.......MUD
and you could just hose it off if you dont like it .....just an idea...i didnt say it was a good one