- Location
- United States
the TOP photo is EXACTLY how it sits right now.
hey Guys! So I don’t get on the forums much but some of you may have seen my buiod process on Facebook... this has been a 5/6 month build and just got completed 3 months ago. i have taken this rig out a total of 4 times.. 2 were shake down runs at bridgport, one at barnwell jamboree and one in hot springs arkansas for razor ramble
Let me give you a little back story of this rig, I bought it last year after I sold my 100 series, it was bone stock and has always been a Texas car. The truck had a very small knock in the motor due to a spun bearing. As soon as I got it home, I put it in my shop and started to tear it down. I was on the fence between a LS swap, and a rebuild... I decided to keep is simple and do a complete rebuild on the motor. All the work was done by my self and my good friend which is a master Toyota tech at Vandergriff Toyota here in Arlington Texas. What took so long, was the machine shop took a while to machine the block and head. I will only post some pictures but if you want to send me an email, I have about a hundred photos of the entire build process from every step. This was a very purposed buiod and no corners were cut. The ONLY reason I’m considering selling it, is because I’ve found myself wanting to do a lot more harder trails that these big 80s can’t fit through. So I’m wanting to build a purpose built mini truck or runner on 1 tons.
It is a clean title 1997 factory locked Texas car, I’m the 2nd owner.
215k miles on the cluster
Motor : all parts listed are brand new
Full engine rebuild and bored .20 over
- new pistons, rings, bearings, oil pump, timing chain
- OEM Toyota headgasket ans head studs
- new alternator
- plugs, plug wires, dizzy cap, rotor, coil, coil wire
-denso air filter
- water pump, thermostat
- brand new power steering pump
- wits end heavy duty fan clutch
- new koyo radiator
- Intake manifold and throttle body was bored and cleaned
- new motor mounts
- entire head was rebuilt with new seals and all as well.
- all heater hoses and PHH hoses were replaced along with heater valve
I have paper work for machine shop and ALL reciepts for everything.
Interior :
I did a cloth interior swap from my 94 shell I had, I have all 3 rowsand seats are flawless. EVERYTHING works in the interior, zero leaks from the sun roof, headliner is in perfect shape, it does have a little crack on the bottom corner of the passenger side windshield. Dash has no cracks, all lights work, ac blows ice cold, all windows and locks work, power antenna works, the interior is a 8.5/10 if I’m being very picky. I’d say it’s flawless for a 97 IMO. Door panels look perfect, speakers sound great, the cushions on the panels were swapped to match the seats, radio works, I also added the CDL switch and husky floor mats.
Suspension: full custom 3 link for great flex
-I did a custom 3 link set up to keep springs and shocks. All mounts are from Barnes,ruff stuff, and 4wd. Also all fabbed to fit.
-links are 2”x.250” DOM tubing for extra strength
- links were powder coated
-Johnny joints from currier enterprises
- all mounts and front axle is trussed and gusset to ensure you’re protected and not bending anything.
-It has slinky 75mm front springs
- OME L shocks all around with custom shock extension for more droop.
- metal tech front 1.75” spacer for a level stance
-Slee bump stops on front and rear
- rear J springs
-sway bar extension
- slee DIY panhard kits
AXles :
- nitro 5.29 gears with solid spacers
- RCV 300m front axle and birfs
- terrain tamer full rebuild kit with all new bearings and seals
- low range axle truss
- front axle was moved forward 1" for clearance and longer wheel base
- ruff stuff rock bash plate front and rear
- ballistic bottom shield front and rear
- ruff stuff tabs and gussets to brace all mounts on 3 link system
- all new OEM Toyota u joints for front and rear drive shafts
- ARP hub studs (others are known to sheer off with 37+ tires)
- ARP knuckle studs
- heavy duty marlin crawler tie rod
-heavy duty marlin crawler drag link and tie rod ends
- OME steering dampener
-all new seals and gaskets on front and rear axles
- both axle locking actuators were cleaned and rebuilt
- everything was cleaned, prepped, and painted
Brakes :
-toytec stainless frame to axle lines
-Slee axle to calipers stainless lines
- OEM Toyota 100 series front pads
-OEM Toyota rear pads
- terrain tamer cross drilled front rotors
- stop tech rear rotors
- OEM rear e brake shoes
- oem calipers rebuilt
- new master cylinder
Armor :
- 4x4 labs front bumper
-4x4 labs rear bumper
- custom welded rock sliders with cat shield 1/2” thick metal
- iron pig belly pan skid plate
- 10k smottybilt wireless whinch with synthetic line.
- armor was scuffed and painted with clear coat ( I wanted the rugged look)
exterior/ body
- window visors
- oem tint in great shape
- amazon special snorkel
- under carriage and frame was coated under wheel wells
- after market muffler but not loud
- keyless entry alarm
- optima yellow top series 31
- emblems and land cruiser badging are all there and in great shape
- hood shocks were replaced
- all new bulbs and LED bulbs for headlights
Wheels and tires : 5 total with full size spare.. some pictures will have picture of the Scs wheels but these are no longer on it.
-Walker Evans TRUE beadlocks in a 17x8.5” with powder coated light grey inside. These were NoT cheap....
- 37x12.50 cooper stt pro tires with less then 900 miles on them.
these tires ride great on the highway and do awesome off road, no uneven wear and feathering.
I spared no expenses when I built
This rig because I didn’t want to break on the trail... I over built it to support 40s. I have ALL reciepts for the entire build. As you know, all these parts were not cheap including my own man hrs. The 3 link system was build with a lot of thought and calculations, the ride quality is fantastic. I do not have the front sway bar on so it does have a little more sway. But I can drive this thing on the highway at 65-75mph and there is no death wobble, crazy sounds, or sway. I can daily it and drive with one hand if need be, no issues at all! I’ve had a handful of 80s and I think it rides and drives very similar. The wheels and tires are big and heavy so the truck isn’t fast haha.
I built this rig with the thought of being able to throw all my
Gear in and drive to Colorado if need be... then tear up any trail that it faces. I'm sure I'm missing some mods and like i said, i do have a lot more pictures that i can send via email or text.
Cons :
-D light doesn't work
- big dent on rear driver door (from the first trip out on jamboree on twister) but i made it through and didn't have to winch lol
-Air bag light is on (pretty common, I haven’t hooked it up to the computer to see)
-Abs light is on
-exhaust rattle due to the y- pipe clamp and the exhaust bushing is worn. would be a little annoying if you drove it for a long distance but a very easy fix.
-Little window plastic trip is brittle but i have different ones to replace if you want
-Paint is faded on flares, passenger fender, and passenger door
other then these minor flaws and the big dent.... the truck is EXTREMELY clean and well built, it cleans up very nice... interior is almost perfect and body can be repaired and repainted if that is what you want.
I can sell it two ways:
As is with body flaws and I will give you a green rear door that you can paint. I left it as is because I was planning to paint the entire rig next year.
Or I can have the body prepped, fixed, and painted. So you have a extremely clean capable rig.
Price is $20,000 as is WITH a rear driver side door in great shape with flare tab but its green.
Or $23,000 painted black again and the body looking brand new!
save yourself the headache and have a turn key ready to rock and roll rig, if i were to buy it for myself.. i would do NOTHING to it... it is 100% ready to go.
I don’t get on here much so I will leave my personal email and number so you can call or text.
John 682-478-8166
Johnthai00@yahoo.com
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Good luck with sale John!!
