Turbo Position (1 Viewer)

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dieselcruiserhead said:
I would love to find one locally if possible and pull all the oil feed fittings and other stuff as opposed to sourcing the parts all over like Wes..

Finding a d-50 in the yard is a needle in a haystack. I dunno what the later turbos came one.

I wouldn't worry about the oil line. I found a 2 fittings that would work. I wouldn't use that hard line with a banjo fitting anyway. I'd run the adaptor to a braided line. The intake hoses are pretty much worthless (imho) and the cast steel exhaust from the turbo shouldn't be a big deal since I know you can fab one.

I sold my set up though. :frown:
 
I hope I don't get burned, that would suck.. Looks like a brand new unit though, we got it for $199. A little expensive but all considering, not too bad.. See how it goes I suppose.. Thanks for the heads up though guys...
 
I am new to Ih8mud, but a long time cruiser guy. I recently picked up a 1984 BJ-42 from Canada, it is an amazing truck. However, I live in Park City, UT @7000 ft. above sea level, the engine needs a boost. I bought a mitsu turbo, it is oil cooled and I am having a hard time finding oil fittings, lines, etc. Could you give me some more info on this Dodge turbo, sounds like a great alternative. I would appraciate a part # , thanks so much.

cruise diesel
 
Hello this is an old thread brought back to life.

Reading above with guys having a hard time finding fittings.. not sure if this is applicable.
But why would anyone want to use a banjo fitting for oil pressure to the turbo? or tee it off of the transmitter or low oil px switch? You can pull the plug out near the front of the oil passage and install a 1/8 BSP to 1/4 jic fitting and then run a 1/4 inch pressure line up to your turbo. For return it is very simple to weld a fitting onto the oil pan. Go double the size(.500 inch).

I pulled my return line off and inserted into a milk jug, at idle there was a pretty good flow of oil thru there.

I would be very worried to rob the alternator of any of its oil. I think the only reason axt uses the alt oil is it's very simple to hook up to there. no drilling and welding.
 
Thanks for the idea, that is the way we are going to go.
 
Old thread for sure, but all this talk about turbos and clocking plus water or no water side which is best.

Seems its leaning towards no water????
 
i was burned as well on ebay.........bought a turbo and it had glass beads down inside it. It sounds like the Lebaron turbo is the simplist.
 
Pretty sure the D50 truck is by far the best fit and most claim good power from that unit, from down low.

i was burned as well on ebay.........bought a turbo and it had glass beads down inside it. It sounds like the Lebaron turbo is the simplist.
 
we got hosed a little on the D-50 turbo also.. It will probably work and seems reasonably tight but was described as "probably brand new." In the end Damon (cruiser diesel) was a little uncomfortable with a custom application and even though it should work fine, overall the turbo itself is very small in size with relatively small ports. So he decided on a turbo kit, probably a Turbo Glide as soon as he can afford it, which may possibly be very soon.. If anyone is interested in an almost 100% complete kit to bolt this D-50 turbo, I think he'd sell it for ~$400 or so I figure, about what we have into it with all the matching parts for a 3B...
 
Since this thread is being resurrected

Lots of people are talking about these Mitsu turbos, and what they came off, or what part numbers etc...
I found this site:

www.dieselevante.it/

It has a search that will let you see what turbos where used in what vehicles, the various turbo codes and their corresponding oem codes and the size,type and HP of the vehicle it was designed for. Might help find out that there are a lot more turbos out there to use depending where you are in the world. Hopefully some will find it handy.
 
we got hosed a little on the D-50 turbo also.. It will probably work and seems reasonably tight but was described as "probably brand new." In the end Damon (cruiser diesel) was a little uncomfortable with a custom application and even though it should work fine, overall the turbo itself is very small in size with relatively small ports. So he decided on a turbo kit, probably a Turbo Glide as soon as he can afford it, which may possibly be very soon.. If anyone is interested in an almost 100% complete kit to bolt this D-50 turbo, I think he'd sell it for ~$400 or so I figure, about what we have into it with all the matching parts for a 3B...

Don't know if it helps but in the end I found the turbo glide turbo to be very similar to the D-50 turbo.. Again this is still for sale if anyone is interested, we installed the turbo glide kit, for about $2G shipped. Turned out very well... I think this would be comparable. Of course more work as well. The kits are bolt on as well...

Andre
 
The flange is a toyota pattern. Only the toyota turbos will bolt up. supra, mr2, etc.

The only adapter i know of out there is from a toyota pattern to a t3. There are t3-t4 adapters but the stack would be higher.
 
Hello,
I am using the 13BT manifold from G&S, bout $450.00. I am also using the CT-26 from a Supra turbo, 'bout $100.00 from craigs list. After installing a TinyTach diesel tachometer, I was finally able to map the boost RPM curve. At 1500 RPM-5psi, 1900RPM-10psi, and 2200RPM-15psi, and 2500RPM-18-20psi. I would note the turbo works great and produces positive pressure at idle, my gauge starts at 5psi. The tribal knowledge that says the Supra CT-26 doesn't work is flat out wrong. After reading Corky Bell and Diesel theory textbooks I believe that the turbo is rightsized for my engine/application. The 13BT manifold exit is the same diameter as the Supra CT-26 turbo entry port, I do not think that this is accidental, the 3B has a throttle butterfly, so I think this mirrors the Supra in design. Those that would like to come and go for a spin in my FJ40 w 33s and a 4speed are welcome to experience the combo. I think that there is an ongoing trend to use a small turbo to enable full boost at very low rpms. This could limit the potential horsepower of the engine to possibly even less than the normally aspirated version, due to compressor limitations.
Discuss!
eric
P.S. The TinyTach has a maximum RPM achieved monitor in the menu, with the turbo my max RPMs are 2800 RPMs, the turbo does the trick!
 
yes, that will bolt up. I used the 3bt manifold and an adapter to a t3 and used a volvo t3 turbo. Total cost with a full custom exhaust was less than $900.
 
yes, that will bolt up. I used the 3bt manifold and an adapter to a t3 and used a volvo t3 turbo. Total cost with a full custom exhaust was less than $900.
Here is a t3 volvo
3113_1.JPG

So you say 3bt is that the same as 13bt ?
Where did get your adapter and please post pics if any one has a finnised set up on a 70 series and a list of parts needed ..

My truck wont be here for a month so I have time to get all the bits needed to fab up a proper junk yard turbo:D
 
Hello,
I am using the 13BT manifold from G&S, bout $450.00. I am also using the CT-26 from a Supra turbo, 'bout $100.00 from craigs list. After installing a TinyTach diesel tachometer, I was finally able to map the boost RPM curve. At 1500 RPM-5psi, 1900RPM-10psi, and 2200RPM-15psi, and 2500RPM-18-20psi. I would note the turbo works great and produces positive pressure at idle, my gauge starts at 5psi. The tribal knowledge that says the Supra CT-26 doesn't work is flat out wrong.

It's not that the supra turbo won't work. It's more that it's a little larger than you want so you give away a lot of potential performance and drivability.
Turbos in petrol engines are sized exclusively for mid and top end, in a diesel they're sized for low to mid end. In addition the much cooler exhaust in a diesel requires a smaller exhaust housing to boost early enough.

For example, my Isuzu with the T25 I chose for it gets 10psi boost at about 1200rpm and almost 20psi by 1500rpm. Displacement is 3.9 litres.

The reasons I recommend Garrett turbos for any turbo swap is the massive array of spares and different size exhaust housings available. They're also very cheap to repair and rebuild. Toyota turbos are the opposite in that respect. Different size housings are almost impossible to find and rebuilds are expensive.
 
https://forum.ih8mud.com/diesel-tech-24-volts-systems/131284-3b-diy-turbo-question-3.html
adapter JGS Precision Turbo, it's not listed, you have to call. Thanks to BB for finding this adapter.


Thanks BB! I just orderd the adapter.. Now I want to try and find some one to build me a header using the flange adapter. Is there any way to find out the exhaust flange shape to build one ? It must be as much to build one as it is to pay $500 for a low flow stocker ???
I just got that turbo abouve for $200 ....a turbocharger from a 1987 124 6 cylinder diesel mercedes,
 
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Thanks BB! I just orderd the adapter.. Now I want to try and find some one to build me a header using the flange adapter. Is there any way to find out the exhaust flange shape to build one ? It must be as much to build one as it is to pay $500 for a low flow stocker ???
I just got that turbo abouve for $200 ....a turbocharger from a 1987 124 6 cylinder diesel mercedes,


You could use a manifold gasket to get the shape of the flange to the head...

not sure what you paid for your adaptor, but if you are going to have a manifold made why not buy a simple flange that works for whatever turbo you are using? It would just be a simple plate. If you use the adaptor then whoever makes it for you is going to have to make a manifold with a turbo flange that you will not be using just so you can bolt on the adaptor that you bought .
 

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