- Thread starter
- #41
Huh? Use the quote at least
Turbo Oil Line Questions for a 3B *PICS* (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Isaacjohnstar
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- Thread starter
- #42
Ok spent the morning and $160 at the exhaust shop. I had a 2.5" exhaust put in with no muffler hoping this would solve my heat and boost issues.
There is no change at all other than sound reduction with it coming out at the back.
Any ideas? I still have a 2" pipe from my exhaust manifold to my turbo. I hope I didn't just spend money on a custom exhaust to a broken turbo that I will have to replace with something different.
What should I try next?
There is no change at all other than sound reduction with it coming out at the back.
Any ideas? I still have a 2" pipe from my exhaust manifold to my turbo. I hope I didn't just spend money on a custom exhaust to a broken turbo that I will have to replace with something different.
What should I try next?
crushers
post ho
did you modify the fuel setting once you installed the turbo?
i might have missed this but is it a new turbo or "new to you" turbo?
i might have missed this but is it a new turbo or "new to you" turbo?
A boost gauge would tell you if the thing is moving any air. Sounds like it isn't making boost if your EGT's are rising that high with not much load and no additional power.
Does the turbine spin freely after you clocked the housing? Do you hear it whistle as the engine revs up under load? Possible air leaks? If the wastegate arm is disconnected the flap gate will be open unless you wired it shut, did you?
- Thread starter
- #45
BC40 said:
I need to get a boost gauge but that will have to wait till next month in the budget.
The turbine spins freely.
I did not wire up the flap gate. I just wired it up and took it for a drive and I definitely have boost now. Not much but some. The EGT's are still the same, to hot to drive to my normal shift points with out reaching 1100f
I can here the exhaust whistle now as well.
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- #46
crushers said:
I did not modify the fuel setting and it looks like the factory wire is still in the screw. It could be turned up though. Should I turn it down and see what happens?
The turbo is only new to me. It came out of a Volvo station wagon with 130k. It seems in good shape and didn't have any play
crushers
post ho
is the pyro post or pre turbo?
you need to turn the screw in for more power.
once you have power then we work on the heat.
you need to turn the screw in for more power.
once you have power then we work on the heat.
- Thread starter
- #48
Pre turbo. This manifold adapter I built is 2" could that be an issue?
I will turn up the screw today. Won't it get really hot then? I read that about 600-800 is normal driving temps. Is that right?
I will turn up the screw today. Won't it get really hot then? I read that about 600-800 is normal driving temps. Is that right?
I do kinda like that setup. Although... is that PVC pipe?? 
Just read the entire thread. Some thoughts:
- The 2" downtube is probably fine. My BJ73 came from the factory with a tiiiiiny exhaust all the way out the back - its like 2" or 2 1/16" and it seems to breath better than my BJ42 with 2.5". Your short length of 2" adds some restriction as does the turbo itself, but not enough to explain what you're seeing.
- It really sounds like the problem is a lack of boost, a boost gauge should be the first thing you tinker with. Check the waste gate, the fact that you mucked around with is gives a greater chance that its stuck open. I wouldn't worry about the actuator for now, sort out the easy stuff first.
- The oil issues and the exhaust leak are probably irrelevant.
- Do you have the both of the venturi lines installed properly and clamped? Diaphragm in good shape?
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- #51
I do kinda like that setup. Although... is that PVC pipe??
Thanks I like the position myself but I do like your setup as well.
Its a plastic pipe rated for 300f and 250psi. It won't explode like PVC when it bursts. I think it will work but I have been checking it for heat and bulges just to be safe. So far so good.
1. Thanks for he answer on that. I thought it made sense to use 2" as that is the size of the opening of the stock exhaust manifold.
2. I will get a boost gauge as soon as the finances allow and get an accurate measurement of the boost. I have the Waste gate removed as it wasn't hooked up anyway and it made it easier to work down there with it gone. I put a little screw in the waste gate hose to plug it but I don't know if this necessary. Maybe I'll pull it out and see what happens.
I wired the waste gate flap closed
and I am getting some boost now and the tell tale whistle out the tail pipe.3. Noted
4. The venturi lines are installed same as they always have been and it has worked well. The diaphragm is new within 1500 miles. I have not clamped my venturi lines even though I have read much about the need to do that
sometimes I amaze myself
- Thread starter
- #52
Thanks for all the continued help guys! It's cool to have all the members that I have seen on here for ever reading and posting on my thread. I appreciate it
You're still fairly safe at 1100F. In fact, if the turbo is moving any air (probably is, just unclear how much), your EGTs are less than they were before turbo since you didn't touch the fuel screw.
I just don't think your getting any real boost if you are seeing that much heat and no noticeable gain in power. And it sounds like it would go way higher than 1100F if thats what you get just going through the gears under normal acceleration.
There have been people who found their factory pump setting were overfuelling after turbo install (Charles I believe), but normally that's not the case.
It is good that there was a noticeable change when you hardwired the gate closed since the arm was previously disconnected. The wastegate rod normally holds the gate closed until max boost setting is reached. Without that or blocking it closed the turbo would be continually trying to dump pressure. Very odd the EGT did not drop after wiring the wastegate shut?
I just don't think your getting any real boost if you are seeing that much heat and no noticeable gain in power. And it sounds like it would go way higher than 1100F if thats what you get just going through the gears under normal acceleration.
There have been people who found their factory pump setting were overfuelling after turbo install (Charles I believe), but normally that's not the case.
It is good that there was a noticeable change when you hardwired the gate closed since the arm was previously disconnected. The wastegate rod normally holds the gate closed until max boost setting is reached. Without that or blocking it closed the turbo would be continually trying to dump pressure. Very odd the EGT did not drop after wiring the wastegate shut?
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- #54
I tightened up the wire on the waste gate and pulled out the half ass gasket I made out of copper and replaced it with a real gasket material.
When I looked at the copper I could see the soot was hitting it about 1/4 inch, restricting the exhaust a bit. I made the new gasket bigger. It seems to have helped and my temps are down about 100f
to 1000f when I drive normal. Still not happy but it is a start.
Here is a pic of the fuel screw. It looks like a factory wire?
When I looked at the copper I could see the soot was hitting it about 1/4 inch, restricting the exhaust a bit. I made the new gasket bigger. It seems to have helped and my temps are down about 100f
to 1000f when I drive normal. Still not happy but it is a start.
Here is a pic of the fuel screw. It looks like a factory wire?
- Thread starter
- #55
Turned up the fuel a full turn tonight. Wow what a difference! It's like a whole new truck! I still have high heat in forth and fifth gears, but it tops out at about 1150 in third and less in first and second gear. The torque in first and second feels double what it used to be.
I have read differing opinions on what temp is safe to run at for pre turbo EGT's. Is 1200f to high for normal driving? What do you all run? I'm not sure what to do next to lower my temps. Any ideas?
I am loving the turbo 3B. I took it to a local wheeling spot and climbed some small hills and where it bogged before it holds a steady rpm now. So worth the hassle! Thanks every one for the help!
I have read differing opinions on what temp is safe to run at for pre turbo EGT's. Is 1200f to high for normal driving? What do you all run? I'm not sure what to do next to lower my temps. Any ideas?
I am loving the turbo 3B. I took it to a local wheeling spot and climbed some small hills and where it bogged before it holds a steady rpm now. So worth the hassle! Thanks every one for the help!
crushers
post ho
post turbo 1000F is the guideline
pre turbo 1200F is the guideline
remember, these are a guideline only. I think it was Bruce that pointed out that a NA 3B in stock condition runs over 1400F at heavy throttle and most of us bag the s*** out of our 3B engines.
pre turbo 1200F is the guideline
remember, these are a guideline only. I think it was Bruce that pointed out that a NA 3B in stock condition runs over 1400F at heavy throttle and most of us bag the s*** out of our 3B engines.
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- #57
I could probably max at around 1400f if I drove it fast. I'm not really comfortable with that from what I have read but I'm unsure of what to try next to lower the temps. I have just been driving slow. If I was to drive a long sustained hill like some of the passes around here It may get really hot.
crushers
post ho
couple things to remember:
low RPMs will create more heat than higher RPMs since the air moves slower and the engine has to work harder.
try a lower gear with higher RPMs and see if there is a difference.
many people believe that diesels LOVE to lug, this is far from the truth. diesels CAN lug but it generates tons of heat to do so.
low RPMs will create more heat than higher RPMs since the air moves slower and the engine has to work harder.
try a lower gear with higher RPMs and see if there is a difference.
many people believe that diesels LOVE to lug, this is far from the truth. diesels CAN lug but it generates tons of heat to do so.
For normal driving, IMHO I would not be comfortable with 1200F just to keep up with in-town traffic
. Steep hills at higher speeds and strong headwinds, fine. For comparison, I only get past 1200F up sustained hills in mountains in 5th (normally I would slow down and keep it more reasonable in 4th as crushers suggests). I could likely give it a little more fuel as is, or a bunch more with intercooler and more airflow, but then I'd worry about longevity. I'm keeping mine for the long haul so getting absolute max power isn't my priority, YMMV.
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- #60
BC40 said:For normal driving, IMHO I would not be comfortable with 1200F just to keep up with in-town traffic
I'm not comfortable with that either. What should I do to lower the temps? It seems to have had no effect on the temps when I turned the fuel up. It does help to use a lower gear and higher rpms. I would like to have conditions like what you are explaining and not be glancing at the temp gauge as much as the speedo while just cruising around town.
Also when I stop I let it idle till the temps drop below 300f. Is this a good idle down temp?
