are you gonna make another support for the turbo .. just wonder coz the leverage aplied to the exhaust manifold and bolts with the turbo that far .. ( low )
Turbo Oil Line Questions for a 3B *PICS*
- Thread starter Isaacjohnstar
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are you gonna make another support for the turbo .. just wonder coz the leverage aplied to the exhaust manifold and bolts with the turbo that far .. ( low )
Yes , and employed and paid well.
Sorry , i wasn't trying to start a fight. YOU live in North America , and mostly see only NA units.
I was talking of Euro Diesels , since 1976 to date I have been involved in euros.
So , It was just my Opinion that I was going to post with some time-line since then and some 2012 new stuff.
Oh well .
You know when you lift a hood now in 2011 your LOST ? I'm Not .
Edit: I removed the offending "My Opinion", that I was going to elaborate on.
Cleaned so the same-old is right ,
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- Thread starter
- #23
Yes sir I am. I haven't had a chance to fab something up but will soon. Surprisingly there is more room down there than it looks. Everything clears with at least 1.5 inches to spare. the down tube will have about 3 inches to the fire wall after install. I'm happy with that. I just have to re-fab my battery tray and it all will fit.
the downside of a low mount turbo, if you are into offroading in deep water, is the turbo is now the lowest spot for water to accumulate should you get hydro locked.
you pull the plugs or injectors and crank the engine over to get the water out of the cylinders but the turbo still will have water sitting in it to the level of the intake or the breather.
as you crank it over the exhaust will be trying to turn over the turbo but the intake side will be laddened with fluid.
i had this happen with a PZJ70 that i hydrolocked. the turbo is not designed to pump water.
of course if you never go near water then this is not an issue.
you pull the plugs or injectors and crank the engine over to get the water out of the cylinders but the turbo still will have water sitting in it to the level of the intake or the breather.
as you crank it over the exhaust will be trying to turn over the turbo but the intake side will be laddened with fluid.
i had this happen with a PZJ70 that i hydrolocked. the turbo is not designed to pump water.
of course if you never go near water then this is not an issue.
@ VTCDN
I am having a hard time understanding what you are talking about in most of your replies.
What is with the "cleaned"?
It seems to be very disjointed. are you deleting things when you edit your posts?
confused...
I am having a hard time understanding what you are talking about in most of your replies.
What is with the "cleaned"?
It seems to be very disjointed. are you deleting things when you edit your posts?
confused...
- Thread starter
- #26
Yes his posts are hard to follow but there is good info in them.
By cleaned he means he posted files and then removed them from the thread.
By cleaned he means he posted files and then removed them from the thread.
Wayne you have had this discussion before, I called Alamo remember, they said if the housing has water ports they need to be hooked up, so yes it is your opinion, and if you remember I posted the phone number and persons name I called at Alamo.
Here is a white paper from Garrett about the need for the water cooling and how to hook it up, maybe they don't know their ****
and yes I read the part about extremly low temperature diesels in the paper, ours don't qualify for this designation.
ENJOY
http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbo...nter/Garrett_White_Paper_01_Water_Cooling.pdf
Jim
Well, i just got off the phone to Sean at Alamo and i asked him why he would say that the water jackets do not need to be hooked up.
some turbos of the same size do not even have water jackets.
even having the water jackets does not mean you don't have to cool the turbo properly anyway and the water jackets give a false sense of security.
not sure who you talked to but you might want to get your facts straight.
some turbos of the same size do not even have water jackets.
even having the water jackets does not mean you don't have to cool the turbo properly anyway and the water jackets give a false sense of security.
not sure who you talked to but you might want to get your facts straight.
in the end, you can hook them up if it gives you the warm and fuzzy feeling. nobody is stopping you.
but
to say they HAVE to be hooked up is misinformation. it doesn't make the turbo last longer, it doesn't make the turbo improved to the point of accepting negligence or abuse better.
but
to say they HAVE to be hooked up is misinformation. it doesn't make the turbo last longer, it doesn't make the turbo improved to the point of accepting negligence or abuse better.
- Thread starter
- #30
Well I don't ever really get to wheel far from home and I generally like to run parts that others might think risky. I'll be a guinea pig for this one if you like. I will run the turbo without the coolant lines hooked up. If I have issues or have success I will post up my experiences.
Keep in mind I'm not scientific at all and this will be purely my experience. Also my turbo is used and I do not know it's history.
So that said what is my worst case "catastrophic failure" scenario?
My turbo just needs the oil return finished and the exhaust set up and I'll be on the road. May happen today.
Keep in mind I'm not scientific at all and this will be purely my experience. Also my turbo is used and I do not know it's history.
So that said what is my worst case "catastrophic failure" scenario?
My turbo just needs the oil return finished and the exhaust set up and I'll be on the road. May happen today.
the most important item for a turbo is good clean oil at proper pressure.
the most important practice for a turbo is decent cool down before shutting off. 600F and you are golden.
remember, even if you hook up the coolant lines it does nothing if you shut the engine down at 1200F. the oil will still cook due to the shaft being the same temp as the exhaust that is flowing past it.
the most important practice for a turbo is decent cool down before shutting off. 600F and you are golden.
remember, even if you hook up the coolant lines it does nothing if you shut the engine down at 1200F. the oil will still cook due to the shaft being the same temp as the exhaust that is flowing past it.
- Thread starter
- #32
I've been trying to get this turbo finished so I can test it out and give you all a conclusion. Time has been limited in the garage as of late and I finally got to it.
Unfortunately it has not gone well. I took it out for the first test and the return line kinked and oil came pouring out where i hooked my hose up to the turbo. I hadn't tightened up the hose clamp, thinking it would be low pressure and it would be ok for a test run so the oil at least had a place to go.
I fixed the hose and made sure everything wasn't leaking. Took it out for a test drive after checking everything. I kept a close eye on my new Auber EGT gauge and it idles at 230f and when I take off it rises quick! I can not get to my shift point in third gear without getting too close to 1100f. It wont hardly keep steady in 4th without getting that hot.
Also I don't have a boost gauge yet, but it does not have any more power at all. In fact it might be a touch less since I can't get it to the RPM's that I need to shift. I pulled the boost side ducting off and put my hand on it and revved the engine and it barely pushes air.
So any ideas? Some things I am thinking might be the culprit:
1. It could have messed something up internally when I kineked the return hose?
2. the turbo didn't come with a restricted port banjo fitting as recomended by VTCDN. I used a fitting from a local parts shop that fit and had about a 1/16 inch port. Is this too much oil for my turbo and causing it to function improperly?
3. My turbo adapter plate is not perfect and has a small exhaust leak where it meets the turbo. I plan on fixing this with some remflex gasket, but I wanted to try the turbo first. Could this be a problem?
4. I used a 2" down tube off the turbo and at this point it is only about 16" long. Is it causing to much back pressure?
5. I re cocked the turbo my self and it seemed to go back together tight and the turbo spun freely. Could I have messed something up there?
6. When I re cocked the turbo I took the waste gate arm off the waste gate and have not re attached it be cause of how the turbo is cocked. I puled off the actual waste gate actuator and put a small screw in the vacuum hose. Is this a problem? Is the waste gate itself open or closed when not attached?
Thanks for the help guys, Isaac
Unfortunately it has not gone well. I took it out for the first test and the return line kinked and oil came pouring out where i hooked my hose up to the turbo.
I hadn't tightened up the hose clamp, thinking it would be low pressure and it would be ok for a test run so the oil at least had a place to go. I fixed the hose and made sure everything wasn't leaking. Took it out for a test drive after checking everything. I kept a close eye on my new Auber EGT gauge and it idles at 230f and when I take off it rises quick! I can not get to my shift point in third gear without getting too close to 1100f. It wont hardly keep steady in 4th without getting that hot.
Also I don't have a boost gauge yet, but it does not have any more power at all. In fact it might be a touch less since I can't get it to the RPM's that I need to shift.
I pulled the boost side ducting off and put my hand on it and revved the engine and it barely pushes air.So any ideas? Some things I am thinking might be the culprit:
1. It could have messed something up internally when I kineked the return hose?
2. the turbo didn't come with a restricted port banjo fitting as recomended by VTCDN. I used a fitting from a local parts shop that fit and had about a 1/16 inch port. Is this too much oil for my turbo and causing it to function improperly?
3. My turbo adapter plate is not perfect and has a small exhaust leak where it meets the turbo. I plan on fixing this with some remflex gasket, but I wanted to try the turbo first. Could this be a problem?
4. I used a 2" down tube off the turbo and at this point it is only about 16" long. Is it causing to much back pressure?
5. I re cocked the turbo my self and it seemed to go back together tight and the turbo spun freely. Could I have messed something up there?
6. When I re cocked the turbo I took the waste gate arm off the waste gate and have not re attached it be cause of how the turbo is cocked. I puled off the actual waste gate actuator and put a small screw in the vacuum hose. Is this a problem? Is the waste gate itself open or closed when not attached?
Thanks for the help guys, Isaac
comments in RED in the body of message:
I've been trying to get this turbo finished so I can test it out and give you all a conclusion. Time has been limited in the garage as of late and I finally got to it.
Unfortunately it has not gone well. I took it out for the first test and the return line kinked and oil came pouring out where i hooked my hose up to the turbo.
I fixed the hose and made sure everything wasn't leaking. Took it out for a test drive after checking everything. I kept a close eye on my new Auber EGT gauge and it idles at 230f and when I take off it rises quick! I can not get to my shift point in third gear without getting too close to 1100f. It wont hardly keep steady in 4th without getting that hot.
Also I don't have a boost gauge yet, but it does not have any more power at all. In fact it might be a touch less since I can't get it to the RPM's that I need to shift.
So any ideas? Some things I am thinking might be the culprit:
1. It could have messed something up internally when I kineked the return hose?
doubtful, you might have buggered the seal but that would make you dump tons of smoke out the exhaust.
2. the turbo didn't come with a restricted port banjo fitting as recomended by VTCDN. I used a fitting from a local parts shop that fit and had about a 1/16 inch port. Is this too much oil for my turbo and causing it to function improperly?
someone more intelligent than me can answer this one.
3. My turbo adapter plate is not perfect and has a small exhaust leak where it meets the turbo. I plan on fixing this with some remflex gasket, but I wanted to try the turbo first. Could this be a problem?
very unlikely if small but what is your definition of small?
4. I used a 2" down tube off the turbo and at this point it is only about 16" long. Is it causing to much back pressure?
i would say yes and contributing to the high EGT readings. you are trapping the heat near the head causing too much restriction.
5. I re cocked the turbo my self and it seemed to go back together tight and the turbo spun freely. Could I have messed something up there?
doubtful, you would have heard a loud sqealing, like a cat caught in the fan, if it went sideways.
6. When I re cocked the turbo I took the waste gate arm off the waste gate and have not re attached it be cause of how the turbo is cocked. I puled off the actual waste gate actuator and put a small screw in the vacuum hose. Is this a problem? Is the waste gate itself open or closed when not attached?
usually, no waste gate hooked up means tons of boost but there might be a chance that the waste gate is locked open thus dumping all the exhaust flow around the tubo.
did you adjust the fuel?
no fuel means no power and just added air.
but
high EGTs should mean lots of fuel.
all comments a guesstimate from the information gleened.
Thanks for the help guys, Isaac
- Thread starter
- #34
Thanks Greg I appreciate the help. I will start with a new exhaust.
- Thread starter
- #35
Oh and my definition of small for the exhaust leak is just a small amount of air pushing though and no noise of the leak. small like pinhole small.
- Thread starter
- #36
I'm fixing the exhaust leak today and taking the cruiser to the exhaust shop to get a bigger down tube and exhaust put on. Any opinions on what size? I have read nothing smaller then 2.5" up to 3".
What do you guys think?
What do you guys think?
2.5 will be fine...
The restrictor that came with my turbo was roughly 1/16" (eyeball measurement) so I think you're in the right ballpark. It sounds like the kink in the line was the only real problem.
i just don't know how you guys hve so much extra time to argue your point. you've tryed now give it up. this is too long already. i need a beer
sounds like you already have had too many ...
